last stupid question for tonight. i would rather ask then screw something up. i have never taken one of these apart. do i remove the clip and press it out? it came from a chevy and i need the yoke for my t5 trans. thanks in advance.
hold a socket that is almost too big to fit in the hole with a pair of channel locks and use a hammer or mallet. Works every time and makes it quick and easy.. after removing bolt clips on both sides of course
First: save yourself the time, that yoke is fubar'd. The rust that is amply evident will never allow a seal, leaking all the trans fluid faster than you could replace it. Second: Squeeze the clips with a plier to remove. Might take a screwdriver to pry them out of the recess. Next, secure two sockets, one sized just smaller then the bore, one sized to allow the cup to easily enter. Place in vise and tighten just enough to remove one cup. Then reverse to press out the remaining cup. Easier to show than explain, sorry. Cosmo
Sand the rust off with 400 grit sandpaper and solvent or light oil, see how bad the pitting is. Might be ok, might be junk, it's hard to tell from the pic
Not tryin' to "poo poo" your yoke but THAT yoke probably isn't going to do the rear seal in your T-5 any good. IF I had a spare, I'd send it to ya. DD
Yeah as said above. Step 1. Remove both clips. Step two get a socket that is just big enough to fit in the hole on top of the caps, a pair of pliers, and a hammer. Step 3. Hammer one side all the way down until one caps comes out the bottom. Flip it over and repeat to the opposite side. From there I think you will see how to wiggle it on out of there.
A press also works. I am not sure I would use that yolk Its awful pitted. I think a new one at a drive shaft shop would be $17.00.Or a good used one
remove pins and put the shaft in a vice near the yoke. Smash yoke with 2 lb hammer, two joints will come out. Follow above using a socket for the remaining two.
If you find, after cleaning it up, that the pitting in the yoke is rather extensive, you might be able to "repair" it with something called a "speedi-sleeve". I get them from a local bearing shop, but you might be able to get them from your local auto parts supplier. It's a thin steel sleeve that presses on to the seal area on a shaft, and uses the original size seal. Typically used to repair a seal-worn groove, but I see no reason you couldn't use it for this. Roger
From what I can see this one is gonna spew fluid, But cosmo has the procedure correct! I use a press myself but the vise works very well also.
Agreed on the corroision situation. Try cleaning it up as suggested, but I doubt that it's gonna be useful. Pressing these apart I have always used either a press or a bench vise. A couple of sockets if you don't have press tools. One large on the bottom, other one one the cup (slightly smaller). Press until the cross bottoms, then flip is over and pres it out the rest of the way. Think before you go for it and you'll be fine. Never used a hammer, but I guess it'll work okay.
If you remove it by yourself , put a rag on it . You probably already know it , but a spring like this leaving is home could cost an eye to anyone .. The best scenario is earing it flying 20 feets away and loosing it in the grass or the mess
That yoke is ratshit, dont waste your time. Some one above said $17, easier to buy one. Save lot of headaches down the track Rod
I have to agree I tryed to save one once, wasted a day and more money then it was worth. Like some have said buy a new one, you'll be glad you did.
Yep. Rusty residue can be deceptive, especially in a picture. Polish it up and mic it. The area where the seal will be if it cleans up with less than .003 or so it'll work.............
that yoke is junk. not only do you have a seal. but it also rides in a sleave in the trans tailhousing. tear up that sleave and you will have a vibration in the drive line that will drive you nuts. also i may not have the best tools mostly craftman. but a socket is used to take nuts and bolts off. it is not a hammering tool. get a pice of steel to drive out the joints.
******************************************************* Oops!.....color me embare-assed. (As dad used to say...."engage brain before putting mouth in gear.) Roger
Take the old one off and clean it up and save it though as they make great plugs to stick in the back of a spare trans or the trans you have installed in a project to keep things clean. I press the Ujoints out an in with the C clamp part of my balljoint press (similar to this one bhttp://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-Ball-Joint-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY It makes a job that was a pain in the butt pretty simple and quick. I've done hundreds of them with the bfh and various additional tools but can do it a hell of a lot easier and quicker the way I do it now. If you decide you need step by step instructions on how to put it back together with a hammer and sockets pm me and I'll walk you through it.
I thought i would put a tip on how to put it all back together too, since it seems you haven't done it before, installation is about the same as putting it back together.. take the caps off and get the cross inside the yolk.. press one in, then the other.. after its all said and done take a dead blow and with medium force hit behind where the caps are pressed in. you will notice before ya smack the yolk the joint will be a bit stiff. after ya smack it it will be a smooth as butter.
I've saved two, twice. That yoke, 50 years from now, just might be consider a "score"! It's easy to say it's junk, but we'll never know until it's actually checked. ... of course I enjoy working on old iron, so time (used) don't necessarily mean it was wasted..................
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