For those of you who haven't read any of my previous help posts, I've got a '53 210 and we're putting the 235 from a '55 in it. The mounts from the '53 were in the mid section. The mounts for the '55 are on the front. The '53 has an area on the front crossmember that has two areas to put front motor mounts.. it looks like it's set up to put them there but just never were. We're thinking that we can just drill holes in those and put the front motor mounts for the '55 motor there... upon closer inspection, however, we're wondering if even with the bushings on if the oil pan will hit the crossmember, because there isn't much clearance there. I know it's pretty specific, but if anyone has any information on this it would help a lot. Thanks in advance!
I made my own for my 53. My 58' 235 came with front mounts. I just made some and used the side mounts. I used a pair of flathead rubber parts. Works pretty well. I still need to clean them up but I'm pretty proud of them.
If you got the timing cover with the flange on the bottom. I think you can use the 55 front mounts. But then what do you do at the other end? Use a bellhousing with the side mounts? Or just depend on the trans mount? I have a 58 truck 235 in my 54 and used the stock mounts on the side and just needed to make flat adapter plates to get everything to line up cause the mount pads on the side were in different places. Between the 54 and 58 engines. I like what's pictured above by notpete. Frank
Thanks so much for the pictures! I found a few posts that said it was possible to mount from the cross member, but not recommended. Another said that you can put some heavy flatbar across the cross member and bolt the mounts into that.. but it sounds like the best thing to do is to fabricate your own, so I think we're going to attempt to make something like notpete has up there. We've also run into a couple other issues. My '53 was a manual. We're putting in the powerglide from the '55. It's been a challenge because the motor and trans are still connected.. so we went ahead and just took the entire front clip of the car off. When we tried to put the motor and trans in, the tube where you check the trans fluid on the powerglide gets caught when we try to slide it back, so we're thinking we can just cut the piece it's catching on off, because it's really rotten anyways. The other issue is that the powerglide is going to hit the original driveshaft before it clears the front of the car, so we can't go any further until we take the driveshaft off. So here's where we've left off for today: We pulled the motor back out and I think tomorrow we're going to take the original rear end and driveshaft off, get the new one ('57) cleaned up, and put that in. Then we'll figure out the trans and motor mounts, and hopefully things will go smoothy from there. I've taken a bunch of pictures, so I will have to make a build thread or something this coming week. Thanks for all the help!
those mounts are very nice, you should be proud! great to see some really good pictures that do them justice.
Babydoll, The 55-57 engine mounts are off of the angled corners of the block. they will not line up with the two holes that you are planning on drilling into the '53 crossmember. If you drill the two holes into the angled parts of the crossmember, and drill two holes into the front timing plate, then you can mount it like a 49-51. You will also then need to add mounts to the sides of the bellhousing, like the 49-51 have, to help stabilize the engine. Otherwise, you could make your own mounts similar to what pete has done, but make them work with the angled front corners of the block. I believe wrenchbender54 ??? has done this. There are no kits available for this. If you do this, then the extra stabilizing mounts on the side of the bellhousing aren't necessary.
Are you saying I will need to use the bellhousing mounts to make my engine stable?? Just trying to clarify...
Yep, without the bellhousing mounts it'll try to flop around like a fish. I also seem to remember that you'll have to shorten the water pump shaft as its longer than the 53. I used to just take the water pump off and put it in the press and push the hub down farther and then use a shallower top pulley from a 283. Then, just cut the extra stub of the shaft off. I'm not 100% sure that you need to do this on a car, but a pickup of the same era needs it done. You could also space the radiator ahead too...
No. you're fine. It's when you mount the engine under the timing cover and at the ****** tailhousing that you will have a torque over issue and need something at the bellhousing to help keep it from doing this.
Thats what I thought. You really know your stuff so I figured I'd ask. There is really no diference between the stock 53 mounts and these other that the shape and look of them. I had no problems with the stock mounts. Other than they were to high to fit my Fentons. These new ones mount in the same place and do the same thing. Nothing else has changed.
Thanks again. The only difference with my motor and notpetes is that my 235 is a '55... and '55-'57 only has the front mounts.. there are not holes on the block like notpete has on his '58 to put the mounts in the middle. We think we can fabricate some using the motor mounts from the '53 as frame mounts and then using the motor mounts from the '55 as is. It will take some tinkering, but I think we'll be able to make it work. Just gotta get that closed drive shaft out of there so we can actually fit the motor and 'glide into the car in the first place to see how it's gonna line up.
This is what I was suggesting. Taking the concept that pete is using and applying it to the front corner 55-57 mounts. Picture is courtesy of wrenchbender54. By doing it this way, you don't need anything at the bellhousing. If you mount it like a 49-51 car, then you will need something at the sides of the bellhousing. There is a '54 235 and powerglide on Ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...viewitem=&item=190233718893&_trksid=p3907.m32
Not sure, but, these links may help... http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap_216.htm http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap2_302.htm
The links address cars. Late Sixes for '52-54 Chevys To install a late 235-261 in a '52-54 Chevrolet p***enger car, there are two methods to consider. The first is to locate the holes for the late front motor mount in the IFS crossmember (still called knee action by Chevrolet until 1954 ). The holes have to be drilled in the correct places. On the 1952 models, there are flat stops in the right place, but on the 53-54 models there are no indications of where they should be, so you will have to get the measurements from a æ49-51 and copy them. Then install a 37-51 p***enger car front plate on the late 235-261 engine. The second way to accomplish this swap is to buy custom mounts from Stovebolt Engine Company The kits come with frame and engine mounts and are a bolt on. The stock '52-54 motor mount towers are riveted to the frame and have to be cut off, as they will obstruct our frame brackets. Once engine mounts are attached lower engine into position, bolt down the transmission rear mount. Then locate the frame brackets. Drill frame holes at this time and bolt in place. The Stovebolt Engine Company motor mount kit is also of value when installing a Stovebolt automatic transmission adapter behind a 235-261 because it shortens the spread to the tail shaft of the transmission.
Snarl, the way those mounts are set up will work perfect! I'm helping with this project, do you have any idea as to where I can pick those mounts up? It would make everything it so much easier! Thanks
The Stovebolt mounts mentioned are for using a 58-62 engine, like what mynameisnotpete made. 53-54 crossmembers also have the angled flat spots, but without the holes drilled. Drilling the holes into the front motor plate are a hell of alot easier that trying to swap the plates. You have to tear down half the engine to get that thing off.
If you are refering to the ones in the picture I posted, those are homemade by wrenchbender54. To my knowledge, nobody offers mounts for sale that work like that. Keep in mind that you would want to do something different for the altenator mount. Probably add a couple tabs to the motor mount to hold the alt. in place.
Right, we don't have the holes for mid mounts on the '55 235 without drilling into the block and I'm thinking that is a bad idea. Snarl, thanks a lot for the photo. *edit* thanks Snarl, you answered my question
Thanks snarl, even if we have to make them, just seeing the picture you posted makes it a little easier to understand what we have to do!
i put a 55 235 in my 53 i cut and notched the stock 53 mounts and moved them foward on the frame and welded them back on i kept my 53 trans and i used the 55 water pump and i moved the radiator forward to clear it
Here's a template for drilling the front mount: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/motormount_235.html Personally I drill the corners with a small drill, then drill the center, and finally file the hole square so the original carraige bolt can be used and not rotate.
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