the powerglide in my 54 belair slips ive called a couple of shops in my area and got 1700-2000$ quotes over the phone i was thinking of taking out the pg and replacing the drivetrain but keep the motor has anyone here done this conversion and will i be in the same ballpark money wise a 350 or 2004r trans not sure which is better, a rear, a drive shaft, a adapter plate to put trans to motor, trans cross member, rear leaf spring kit, am i missing anything thinks vinny
you could just rebuild the glide. it probably just needs new steels and frictions and some new seals. other than that, some more info on what you want from the car would help decide the changes you should make.
If you're taking it to the shop out of the car, less than 1k with a standard warranty. Rebuild kits are about $200 plus about 4 hours labor .Educate yourself on what it takes, http://www.themotorbookstore.com/powerglide-transmission.html Then, when talking to the mechanic find out just how much he knows about it that's more than you know.
Pro trans guys have so much **** talking prices, New electronic **** is not fixable but there's no such thing as a $2000 powerglide. Buddy bought a power wagon with fried trans. went to junkyard and went through a school bus of transmissions and picked one with a twisted off tailshaft, $50 made one out of 2. Bands & discs were like new, changed all the fried parts with good used, worked fine. Later I see at the NAPA store a kit with bands gaskets & discs for $110. Fixed a plow truck C6 for the neighbor that worked for years, cost more for the oil & filter. First I would try to adjust the band, then get into it further.
thanks guys ,the prices i got were over the phone all in that ball park thats the reason tm looking at doing the swap ,the prices were with me driving the car there, i plan on driving the car doing some mild custom mods to it and enjoying it, if the swap is an upgrade and not gonna cost me more ill do it thanks again vinny
big-vin: I have an aluminum case Powerglide that was rebuilt about 10 years ago and is sitting on the garage floor. Never installed. Also have new converter. This unit came out of a 66 Chevelle. If interested I will take $250.00 for it. Depending on what part of Jersey you are in it is about a six hour ride to here. vettelovers@cox.net Rich
that aluminum glide won't bolt up to a 235 engine. I did my first iron powerglide when I was 16, it was "exciting" get it in and out of the car in the dirt with some cement blocks and a long 2x12, but I did fix it. The valve body was worn where the clutch drum rides on it, so the sealing rings did not seal, and it lost high gear. But that was back when the local trans shop had all the parts for them laying around everywhere
Aw, rebuild it yourself. It is not rocket surgery. Anybody that tells you that it is too hard for you to do either has a financial interest in you NOT doing it, is just plain ignorant, or is simply a jerk. You will get a new skill in the process, and some new confidence. Keep your camera handy. If you get stuck, or worried, take pictures and ask questions. We've got your back!
Yep, low gear is a band and high gear is a series of plates, IIRC (Forgive me, been a decade since I tore one, and the only one, down). Try and find a service manual and see what adjustments you have, you may just need to give it a bit of a tweak and cure a lot of your issues.
I'd prefer to swap in a newer 3 speed auto, but that's me. I've heard the cast iron pg behind stovebolts are 400 pounds.
I thought they were real heavy 200# isnt bad i dont have a lift so its prob harder on the ground,are there any special tools needed in the manual they talk about a couple of different tools are they neccesary im def scared to do it myself,i think im going to keep the pg even if i pay someone it will be less than the conversion
The most commonly needed special tool is bushing drivers, when I was young and poor I took the parts with bushings to the trans shop and paid them a few bucks to replace them. I'd want to replace the pump, drum, and tailhousing bushings, unless the old ones don't have any wear.
having a "GREAT" manual and the guidance of a few hamb members you should be able to rebuild it. it sure was exciting taking the first ride in the vehicle that i rebuilt the powerglide in. i only did it so i could spend some time with my buddies sister and found out she was a real "*****" like he had warned me she was! he felt bad a gave me some scratch anyway.
It's kind of a pain in the *** type job, but for $2000, I can put up with a pain in the ***. Bottom line? They're not interested in working on it and are doing their best to discourage you from bringing it to them. Honestly, the hardest part about rebuilding a cast iron Powerglide is the R&R of it. It's got to be the simplest automatic transmission design there was.
The one I rebuilt, I used basic hand tools. The only thing was mine had the oddball clutch head screws in it. So I ground up a flathead to make it fit. Most of it can be done without anything too special, just take your time and put it back together the way you took it apart. And keep everything clean.
In a Cast iron PG that would be two pumps one front one rear, which is why they can be pushed started. Rebuild it yourself, just keep everything nice and clean they are really a simple trans and a great one to learn on if u havent done an auto rebuild before
after askin around i found a lift that i can use im going to pull the pg myself and go from there any pointers about removing the pg thanks
it's heavy! Read the manual first, http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/07trans/7_044.HTM
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