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303 olds engine question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Joe53super88, Oct 28, 2010.

  1. Joe53super88
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 15

    Joe53super88
    Member

    can anyone tell me what the part is and purpose of it that bolts up to the back of the block above the ****** and bends down towards the exhaust? cause its is smokin like a day at woodstock! it is horrible! what can i do to help it? thanks for any help!
     
  2. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,750

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    The draft tube, I think you are speaking of, and it's for crankcase ventilation.
     
  3. Joe53super88
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 15

    Joe53super88
    Member

    thats what i was thinkin, just wasnt sure. why is it smokin so bad?
     
  4. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,722

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Lots of piston ring blow by...
     
  5. Joe53super88
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 15

    Joe53super88
    Member

    oh... well shoot. thanks for the help tho guys!
     
  6. just throw a new set of rings in it during the overhaul:p


    before doing the following thing take and dump in a quart of ATF too help clean out inside
    if it has good oil presure warm it up and dump a bunch of #2 diesel fuel in the crankcase and leave it idle as long as it holds oil pressure, then change oil and filter and try some good diesel engine oil in it has the zinc and a lot of additive to clean out engine

    if nothing else it will be well flushed for the overhaul:D
     
  7. Alienbaby17
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 942

    Alienbaby17
    Member

    My 303 does the same thing although I wouldn't say it smokes that bad. On mine you can occasionally see some smoke waft up at a light but it isn't too bad. I was told that was pretty common on these motors even when they were in good shape. I was thinking of converting my road draft tube to a PCV set-up to help minimize this.
     
  8. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    Please put good old MMO in it instead of diesel. I've been down that road and MMO is way better because it won't steam like diesel will..

    The time I poured a quart of diesel in my 221 Ford V-8 in my '64 Ford Fairlane, it steamed my points dead is all for the 24 mile ride home to clean her out... I was going to change my oil the next morning out at Doc's place....

    Just luckily I had a can of starting fluid and 5 cans of new oil I'd just bought so I drained it in the old Wabash Depot out back gravel parking lot back then, and I next cleaned out my dizzy cap using the starting fluid and all was fine, BUT what a scare!!

    And this was at 10 PM Sat. night with me having my three little ones with me dead in the water back when I was divorced, having to walk them half way across town to my wife's Aunts place 'till I fixed my car. Not fun at all..

    SOB did get UN-SLUDGED tho big-time........

    pdq67
     
  9. 40cpe
    Joined: Oct 28, 2010
    Posts: 379

    40cpe
    Member
    from Star, MS

    Alienbaby17, I PM'd you about your '39. Did you get it?
     
  10. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,813

    ClayMart
    Member

    How stock or original is this engine? Seems I've seen mention here before about ring sealing issues with these early Olds V8s. Don't know if it was soft blocks or flakey rings but apparently it wasn't uncommon for them to lose a lot of compression even at 40,000 to 50,000 miles.

    It would be worth trying an oil change with some detergent additive if it was just a ring sticking issue. You might even try adding a small bottle of GM limited slip additve. It's a detergent additve to remove varnish from posi clutch plates, but it's also been known to free up stuck rings and gummed up lifters.

    Whatever you use, don't expect much if you just short-drive the thing around town. Take it out on the highway and drive it steady for an hour or more. You want everything up to full temperature and really get the oil circulating. But don't do this with a motor full of ATF or diesel fuel.:eek:
     
  11. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,982

    Paul
    Editor

    seems like a lot of people respond that have never had any first hand experience with these motors
    a**** may misconceptions posted it's definately not an issue of "soft blocks"
    the early Olds motors have a high nickle iron alloy block that will last well over 100,000 miles between rebuilds
    more likely this old gal just needs some freshening up
     
  12. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,813

    ClayMart
    Member

    Guilty as charged! ;)

    Just p***ing along some info I'd seen elsewhere. So, I guess not everything you read on the interweb is true them? :confused:
     
  13. lowkroozer
    Joined: Jun 1, 2006
    Posts: 601

    lowkroozer
    Member

    Ross racing engines Olds motor spe******t and HAMB member Niles Ohio phone is330 544 4466 Good people
     
  14. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Just in case you just woke this engine up from a long nap of many years, The Marvel Mystery oil is worth a try. It turned my mosquito killing machine into a nice running used engine. It took a couple of road trips for the stuff to free up the frozen rings so that they would seal again. It is normal to see small whiffs of smoke coming from the breather on a car with a road draft system when it is not moving.

    I was pretty sure my Studebaker would need a rebuild after sleeping for 20 some years but it's doing very nicely now...thank you very much.:)

    If it was driven regularly and slowly got worse then it probably won't help.
     
  15. I agree with the others that you should give the old girl a chance, especially if it's been sitting up a lot.

    I like Marvel, but there is another product that Seems to work at least as well; I believe it's spelled Silloo.
     
  16. Joe53super88
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 15

    Joe53super88
    Member

    yea, it has been sitting for many years. i will give it some time with the marvel mystery oil. im not givin up on it.
     
  17. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Take it out for a few drives with the magic potion.:D Just starting it in the garage a few times didn't do the trick in my case. The more I drove it the better it got.
     
  18. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Do you use the Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase or the gas as a top lube? Or both?
     
  19. mr50s
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 59

    mr50s
    Member

    Hey Joe53Super88,

    Had a smoky 303 engine when I bought my 1950 Olds, with so much vapor pressure inside that oil would be forced out its seals and gaskets at speed, with the oil pressure gauge pegged at over 80 lbs. Here's how I fixed it.

    1. Pulled the intake manifold, scooped two full soup cans full of sludge out of the rocker arm and lifter valley area, then pulled the crankcase breather (shaped like a frozen lemonade can). Had to run this breather through the local machine shop's power parts cleaner THREE TIMES to remove all gunk, but it was clean and rust-free when done. Re-installed it.

    2. Pulled the oil pan, scooped out so much sludge in the bottom that it was partially obscuring the oil pump screen, thus ******* the oil pressure gauge. Got a new screen from "fusick.com", the Olds parts supplier, then installed it.

    3. Cleaned the oil filter housing, changed the oil filter, and added high-mileage 10/30 Valvoline oil.

    4. Fired her up, observed oil pressure in the normal range, moved the trans. selector to DR, and off she went. A few trips later, she was operating much more normally, wasn't blowing smoke ande vapor out the seals, and breather smoke had largely subsided on this well-used motor. Pulls hills fine now but overheats, probably the result of too much coolant blockage due to rust in the block. But that's another problem for another day.

    Hope my experience helps you. These Oldses are tough, I've found. Just get the oiling and cooling working again and you'll really start enjoying yours. Maybe you can put off the rebuild like I did. Good luck!!

    mr50s
     

  20. Because your engine is wore out. You might try an oil change first and get lucky it could be that you oil iis gas fouled.

    But most likey as has been mentioned it is blowby and you will need rings at the very least.
     
  21. Beachcomber
    Joined: Aug 4, 2010
    Posts: 283

    Beachcomber
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Sorry to hi jack...... when pullling the front cover/ water pump casing off these 303/324. does that require you to pull the pan as well?
     
    Sleddin51 likes this.
  22. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,982

    Paul
    Editor

    short answer, yes
     
  23. Beachcomber
    Joined: Aug 4, 2010
    Posts: 283

    Beachcomber
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

  24. Joe53super88
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 15

    Joe53super88
    Member

    well i put MMO in the cylinders, and ran it for awhile. but didnt leave the driveway. and put some diesel thru it. and then changed the oil. after all that, i started it and drove it around on roads 55mph. she doesnt smoke very much anymore and runs alot smoother!
     
  25. oneqwkfbody
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 82

    oneqwkfbody
    Member

    Kewl to meet another 53 on here! Gonna do an oils
    Change soon and give her some mmo. She's blowing some smoke out the draft tube. Prolly gonna do a pcv on the tube too to help fumes at idle.
     

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