The motor is a C59A, 46 Merc engine, was a runner but want a bit more power. So, as i said im totaly new to this and im trying to decide what cam to install and need advice on the rest of the valve train. What i AM going to run is a pair of Offy heads, offy super dual manifold and twin 94's. Reading other threads ive noticed the concensus is that Isky Max1 and 77B cams wont give me much and i have to change out my vavle springs. Id like to use many of the stock parts to keep prices down. I dont want un untamable beast but id like a nice powerfull cam with that lovely hotrod rumble. I understand about lift and duration ut have no idea what to go with. I want something off the shelf that will simplify my build. Do i need to goto adjustable lifters and if i do, do i have to change valves and springs? What other advice can you offer?
IMO, you need to bore and stroke it as well and then worry about a cam. It sounds like you are leaning towards a bigger cam, if that's the case you are going to lose your low end power unless you address the cubic inches factor. A cam doesn't "add" power to an engine, it works in conjunction with the other mods and moves the power to the rpm band that the engine is designed to run. You do not need adjustable lifters, but if your replacing the cam you will need new lifters, so adjustable or not is up to you. Your valves should be fine, maybe just clean them and verify the seating. If you do go with a bigger cam, you would be better off replacing the springs. The Isky 400 jr. is very popular, but there are others that have very similar specs, Potvin, and Schneider come to mind.
i have to disagree with you about the max1. ive used them often in customers engines and they perform quite well in the lower rpm range where you want good power. it does not have a lopey idle some guys want. as said its a "package " to get the most from a cam just stabbing in a big cam in a stock 255 may or may not work so good. any decent upgrade includes adjustable lifters (hollow or not) and stronger springs
Thanks, as i dont want to bore and stroke the motor so as to use the rotating gear i have, i would look into adjusting the compresion. Jetmek, thanks, i am after the lopey idle and good mid range, do you recomend anything in that regard? also i believe (may be wrong) its a 239. 50Ford, thanks, im guessing the lifter height (with stock valves) will be specific to the cam, would i be ordering at a length with the cams specs in hand or machining to suit? im not sure how these things come about. i do want a simple cost efective solution, ie. I doubt ill be changing the cam once installed.
The 400Jr Seems to have long duration and lift which may be (not ruleing it out) a bit much agresion. Compared to the Max1, the 88 has less lift, similar duration and only a varied advance. I know advance plays alot into the power range equation, but how will the lower lift effect? Anyone here had experience with this cam?
If you change cam, figure on new springs and adjustable lifters. To keep price down, leave the stock cam in it. You should get alittle higher compression with the heads and the doubled carbs will also help the performance over stock. The question on which cam has been covered before. As I remember it, a lumpy cam will sound good but doesn't really help the performance for on the street. In tests, the 400 jr. wouldn't be the best choice for a 239 cu. in. motor but it will sound good. The Max 1 is darn near stock. Search through the old posts and get the real scoop on it. I don't remember much. A side note. I have the L-100 grind in a motor similar to yours and it works well and I would go with the same grind again. The lumpy idle that we all like. Don't know it it helped the performance any. But again, not the cheapest way out. What I really saw response from was using an aluminum flywheel but that is off in a different direction. Neal
The gurus over on the Fordbarn like the Litterio L-100--lumpy idle for "effect" but otherwise not much different from stock- which is best for a street engine. Everything you do to a cam (flathead or otherwise) to enhance performance does so only by moving the torque and horsepower peaks to a higher R.P.M. That usually degrades drivability on the street. The hallmark of the Flathead has always been it's low end torque.
As J'st Wandering mentioned, start with heads and intake, don't forget swapping to a GM distributor (GMC Bubba). Add a cam and lifters later. Another neat little trick is facing off the front side of the flywheel. Stock is about 33 lbs....Take about 5lbs off. Pat
One good way to keep cost down is to switch to a 8ba crank and rods if it hasn’t been done to your motor already. The floating 59 style bearings are expensive You can find 8ba 3 ¾ cranks and rods cheap I did one with the isky max 1.….didn’t like it….sounded like a stocker. IMO over caming a flathead is nearly impossible …. Tons of low end torque no matter what you do….go big
Does your block have much of a ridge at the top of the cylinders? That's gonna be an indicator of needing a bore job. Need to know more about the vehicle your engine is going to power. For example my `41 Ford coupe certainly is no flyweight. It has a completely stock `41 221" Flathead except for Fenton cast headers with dual exhaust and 12 volts. I am very happy with the way it moves the car down the road. The single biggest improvement I could use would be an additional gear in the transmission. I would love to have O/D in my car. That being said I am planning on building a fresh 59A and use that whilst I put the original 221 aside should I wan't to go back to original. When I build a Flathead (even a stocker) I spend alot of time smoothing the intake and exhaust ports. Don't worry about relieving the block just take a file and give the top of the cyl a .125" or 1/8" radius. That's the edge within the headgasket area between the valves and cyl bore. Another important area is the "short side" of the intake port. With the intake valve out feel the underside of the port and you'll find a ridge. You must smooth that into as gentle a radius as you can. Also you can widen the port side walls a little and blend them into the valve pocket area. Here this link is the best I've found on the web to illustrate what I'm talking about. http://www.flatheadv8.org/bishop/porting1.htm Understand this. A Flathead responds very well to a balanced approach. You don't need a killer cam or too much carb. A sound flathead with good basics will put alot of smiles on your face. I promise.
"That is right for the newer flathead but the '46 flathead distributor is good. Neal" Whoops!!!! I have 8BA on the brain.....I'l go back to sleep..... Pat
just rebuilt a 47, used stainless chevy valves from patricks, iskey max-1 cam, iskey springs at 90 pounds pressure dont forget the holes in the lifter valley for holden lifters i forgot and tried the wrenches HA. seals and every thing are relativly cheap and you will have peace of mind. Best of luck!
IMO the Litterio L100 cam will give you what you want and will sound very nice to boot -without losing any driveability at all. VERY streetable. A big plus is that with around .36o" of net lift, it'll be easier to use most reasonably chambered heads. What car is the motor going into ? Had one in both NA and blown engines and still love that cam.
Does your block have much of a ridge at the top of the cylinders? That's gonna be an indicator of needing a bore job. Thanks! Its a 30 Cooupe but will have a little extra weight than stock, 200lbs over. The bores are fine, sticking with my pistons rods etc As J'st Wandering mentioned, start with heads and intake, don't forget swapping to a GM distributor (GMC Bubba). Add a cam and lifters later. Another neat little trick is facing off the front side of the flywheel. Stock is about 33 lbs....Take about 5lbs off. Have rebuilt dizzy am happy with that, tho just to scare you all... its going to be auto... Im paralised and drive with hand throtle/brakes so yeah... forgot to mention. Big diference? The gurus over on the Fordbarn like the Litterio L-100--lumpy idle for "effect" but otherwise not much different from stock- which is best for a street engine. Everything you do to a cam (flathead or otherwise) to enhance performance does so only by moving the torque and horsepower peaks to a higher R.P.M. That usually degrades drivability on the street. The hallmark of the Flathead has always been it's low end torque. Given that... the L-100 it sounds good. Being auto do you think the 400 jr would strugle even in a light car?
Just ask for a Clay Smith, or a Winfield Super, and be happy. They won't be any better than new cams, but you can say; its a Clay Smith, or a Winfield Super, and make the listeners happy. LOL traderjack
cam techniques in florida does the L 100 cams, I got one for me and a ,mate and Rat Bastad grabbed one too, this was on the advice of a good flathead person. I still have one in my blown roadster and its 3 3/4 x 3 3/8 and its a nice combo. to be honest. I have heard cars with the 400jr cam in them and they don't sound as good as the L100, am I biased? I don't know but I know that when I heard the 400 jr I decided there and then it was another cam for me. I know that for every one person who says the L100 there will be someone who says the 400jr. here you go, don't forget the blower tames the cam down. <object width="480" height="385"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/qGqklgRYzOw?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></object>
The one easiest mod would be slap a blower on it, 3-4 lbs of boost, don't worry about the cam ,porting , polishing. Flatties can't breath, but you can force them.
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