need advice installing aftermarket Mustang II front end

Guys I posted this in the a-d truckers group also but dont think this issue is specific to just trucks.

Hey guys,

Im in need of a bit of help. I just purchased a mustang II hub to hub kit from speedway. I am installing the kit in a '53 3100 and the kit is made for that truck. The thing I have a question on is in the directions it states "mock up your frame so the frame is sitting at the same angle as it will when its on the ground" I assume they mean when it has the front end installed and has tires on it sitting on the ground ready to drive. Well since I already have removed all of the suspension and wheels I dont know what that angle is.

Question #1 is there something on the truck that sits level when the truck is on the ground ready to drive. Like maybe the lower part of the rocker panel or the frame below the cab??

Second issue, I put the truck on jack stands but didnt think to level everything(jackstands all set the same but didnt check against the floor) and tacked the crossmember in, and the bottom or for that matter the top too are not level with the ground from front to back. Side to side level is fine. The truck sits fairly level front to back but is not exact. The way the crossmember is notched to slide up between the frame rails it is automatically off level from front to back again side to side is fine.

Question #2 is the crossmember suppose to be level from front to back
when the front end is installed and is in a ready to drive state. This is not addressed in the instructions.

I also assume that the lower a-arms sould be parallel with the ground once mounted on the truck.

Thanks for the help guys,

Steve



http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=15103

 

Steve,

#1) If your running boards are nice and straight they are a good "visual" indicator of ride height but I would NOT level the frame from them or any other body part. The best method is to use an angle finder on the frame, front-to-back and side-to-side. The frame is flat enough around the cab, cab mounts and in the rear to get an accurate reading.

#2) What they are trying to tell you is that you should set the frame to ride height and install the crossmember parallel to the ground. In my case, I'm using air bags and want to ride pretty low and even so I set the ride height perfectly level. Both the frame and crossmember are parallel to the ground. Most people set a little rake in the frame, where it might be 1-2" higher in the rear but the crossmember is still parallel.

Here's something to be aware of. The upper control arm mounts or "hats" are not to be set-up at the same angle as the crossmember. You will notice that that when you set them on the frame, they tilt downward toward the rear about 3-4 degrees. This is referred to as anti-dive and is a built in function of caster. Don't try and get them parallel with the crossmember, just make sure they are level side-to-side and relative to each other.

Here's a couple of notes on a pic of my frame:

 

Thanks for the reply, very informative. My only concern is that the crossmember seems to have a built in angle to it. The way the crossmember is notched, when you slide it up into the frame it has a set angle. Should I notch it more to make it parallel to the ground.

Thanks again for the help,
Steve

 

I would think the crossmember is made so the frame will have some rake or lower in the front angle. I would leave it as it is and level the crossmember at center to the floor as mentioned before.

 

Typically the crossmember should be parallel to the ground. The kit may be designed for some frame rake (lower in front). If your frame is level, I'm guessing the front of the crossmember is a little higher when it's installed as is?

(Ummm, yeah...what he said.)

 

I had a situation similar to this about 30 years ago with a dune buggy. My neighbor set the front end up square to the floor and welded it solid. Then put BIG dirt tires on the back and little tires on the front. Looked cool but had a negative caster. It was fine under power, but when you backed off it would swap ends on you. I set it on the floor with tires on, measured how much it was off, cut the frame, and cranked the VW front end back past square. Positive caster and it behaved a whole lot better.

 

This may help out somewhat. Go to the Paul Horton "welder series" website and he has some videos of how to mount and install their M2 front ends. The parts may be a little different but the instructions concerning alignment and stuff will be the same for all.