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What size battery? What size cable?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Anchorboy46, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. I was just doin battery maintence today,when I gotta wake up call!
    On top of the batteries (I have three rods) are the battery dates and cranking AMPS at 32 degrees Farenhiet,and another called cold cranking AMPS. They are all 12 volt. All three starters are stock Chevy Delco? At least I think it's Delco...? Anyone know?
    Any who, I have a 454 bored .060 over (468 cubic inches) with a tunnel ram and a four barrel, obviously the largest drain on the batt (of the three rods) when starting.
    Yet, me (dumbass) has the smallest battery in that rod 580 amps@32 degrees, and 450 cold cranking amps.
    My next rod has a 383 Stroker motor with a small 4-71 huffer on it.
    The battery in it isnt much better with a 620 amps @ 32 degrees and 550 cold cranking AMPS.
    Now here is the not-so-funny part- My last rod has a 283 with a single 4 bbl. Pretty much stock with a small mild street cam and a pair of cheap headers. By far the smallest,easiest to start engine out of the three.
    Now then, I have a 875 amps @ 32 degrees,700 cold cranking amps in that motor box! Iam stupid!
    No wonder the little motor neva gave me any probs startin! And the big block was always hard to crank!
    All my batteries have expired from thier due dates and all work really well now,considering they are 3 year batteries!!
    However, I need to change all of them as they are aproaching 5 years old! Two say 6/05 on them, the one on the 283 is 01/07!
    As for cables I use double ought cable (00) in all my rods. It's the largest I've found. It is welding cable. Works really good. I've made jumper cables outa it and they work way better than anything you can buy. Very heavy tho, but worth it on start up..trust me.
    Well, tell me what size and type batteries you guys use and why- TEACH ME PLEASE! I was a freekin' moron on that stuff! Mikey
     

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2010
  2. here in Minnesota all i really look at is Cold Cranking Amps , the more the better

    a 5 year old battery may still be fine , the one in my `28 tudor is 9 years old and still works fine. a friend with a `97 chevy pickup still has the original battery
     
  3. Motion bird
    Joined: Jul 29, 2008
    Posts: 50

    Motion bird
    Member

    I run 2/0 on my race car with the battery in the trunk,with a high compression 439 big block. Years ago I had dual 1100 cranking amp truck batteries,they were the cheap ones that parts stores sell for about $45 each,and have a 110 amp alt. I had to replace the batteries every year,and they stunk like rotten eggs. I replaced the 2 1100 batteries with one blue top Optima which I think is 700 cranking amps. It has been in there for almost 10 years. In my daily drivers I use nothing but Gold A/C Delco. Cheap batteries use more recycled lead which deteriorates faster. One good 700 cranking amp battery will crank all but the wildest 500+ inch race engine. I also dont use cheap recon startes anymore. All my regulacars have the original starters. My one street hot rod has a GM starte for a later model V-8 which is a small gear reduction starter. I had one of thos estarters on my race car with the locked out timing and it worked fine until I broke a starter bolt off in the block(overtightening it) and couldnt drill it out,so I bought a Tilton super starter that uses a different bolt pattern..
     
  4. Roger Walling
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,149

    Roger Walling
    Member

    I always buy the largest 5 year CCa battery that will fit in the battery box.
    At the first sign of trouble after 3 or 4 years, I replace it.
    Face it, if you get 4 years out of a $90 battery, there is only $18 left in it.
    Is it worth $18 to get stuck on the road for that?
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,622

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Whatever batteries are cheap at walmart, replace them every 5 years. If you're running a high compression engine then maybe you need to spend more money on a battery. I don't have cables that big, but it's a good idea, probably helps you.
     
  6. strombergs97
    Joined: May 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,888

    strombergs97
    Member
    from California

    I Just went throught this and ended up getting my battery from Cosco, $74.98..850 CCa. I'm happy..
    Duane.
     
  7. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Mickey , down where you live I really wouldn't worry about cold cranking amps unless you have very cold temps . That's where they come into play . With big engines I always got the biggest battery I could find . The engines always take a lot more to turn over due to compression and heat . If you by from Hell mart then don't expect much . The recycled junk doesn't hold up plus most use less lead so the plates are small . It's fine for many smaller cars in todays world but you should have bigger battery's . I also use welding cables too . Not cheaper but way better than the store bought cables you buy today . They are too thin to carry the current needed for a high compression engine . Also it might help you to keep a trickle charger on the battery's to keep them fully charged at all times .

    Retro Jim
     
  8. espo35
    Joined: Jul 16, 2010
    Posts: 310

    espo35
    BANNED
    from california

    CCA are good for comparison purposes. I believe the formula is how many amps does the battery deliver at 0 F after a 30 second load. I was taught the rule of thumb: 1 CCA per cubic nch, add 50 for an A/C car. High compression is your biggest factor. The length of positive cable is also a factor.
    Although there are a million "brands" of battery, I believe there are only a half-dozen or so manufacturers. For example, Exide Batteries makes almost all "house brand" batteries, such as Walmarts, Kragens etc.
    Delco and Johnson Controls (who make Motorcraft batteries) have always served me well.
     

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