torq thrust wheel..broken screws..

i need some tips on repairing torq thrust wheels that have broken off cap screws, they are too small to do much with

any tips?

thanks

 

drill, baby, drill

 

Find a machine shop of repair shop with a disintegrater. It will burn the screw out with out damaging the wheel. I just had 2 wheels done. My diesel truck shop does it.

 

A maybe... try cleaning the end of the break, then put a washer over it and mig it. Then weld a nut to the washer.

The two heating cycles helps loosen the rust and you might get them out...maybe

 

First determine if they are aluminum or magnesium before you go welding or disintegrating. I have magnesium ones with stripped holes.

Pat

 

F&J! That's a good idea. I will remember that one.

 

I did a pair of aluminum Fenton wheels recently. I ground the broken ends of the screws flat, center punched, and drilled with a small drill bit, then a larger bit, and finally with a tap drill for a #10 screw. I didn't get them all perfectly centered, and I broke one drill bit, but I did get the job done.

 

could you try drilling it with a reverse twist drill?

 

The ones I did were pretty much welded in, I doubt a left hand drill would have been any use.

 

Any body ever try to drll and push out from the backside ....

 

good ideas, the 2 wheels have all 5 screws broke off in each wheel.... they are aluminum wheels, i was thinking of using something like a spot weld cutter and and cut out the whole broke screw and fill hole with weld, then drill and tap new

 

That sounds like a lot more work than is needed.

 

Hot wax and a reverse twist drill?


I use stainless screws in mine..even with a little bit of antisieze

 

weld a nut over it and back it out

 

http://shop.wheelacc.com/torq-thrust-replacement-screw-inserts-p4375.aspx

 

If you know anyone that does machine work or LASER make a template and screw it to wheel.Make holes in template tap size for screws your using.This will allow you to drill and keep pattern concentric. I happen to program LASER parts and have done this, worked out well. A machined template would work the same.Grind screw flat use tranfer punch the size of your hole in template then drill hole to tap size.Template will keep drill bit from walking and changing pattern.

 

If theres enough screw showing to weld to, thats what I'd be trying, except I use a bolt instead of a nut. Someone with a steady hand and a tig welder, and wind it out while it's still hot. Has worked for me in the past.

 

on a #6 screw? damn, you're good

It doesn't really matter if you miss center a little bit when you drill them, does it? can you see .030" misalignment of the screw head on the (plastic) cap?

 

Haha. If thats for me, I'm not, just experienced. If you use a small bolt instead of a nut you can linish the threads off, as well as some diamteter. Then hold the bolt with pliers and downward pressure on the broken screws. Sharp small diameter tungsten and hit the foot pedal and it should fuse with no filler wire required. It won't stick to the ali, as you probably know, and wind it out while hot. Maybe...

 

When I have a broken bolt in something I always TIG up the piece still remaining and clamp vise grips on it. It works great for me,the heat seems to release the bolt a little. Wiggle it back and forth to work it loose. Hope this helps. Dan

 

Guys,

We have taken zillions of broken screw out of American Torq Thrusts, typically they used a hardened screw and it is a real pain to to try to drill, it really does not work, NOT ALWAYS but the drill bit usually walks off into the aluminium. Here is what I know works....

1) If the heads are still on, but all rusty and frozen. RESIST the temptation to try to get them out and snap all the heads off, if they do not come out with moderate pressure, LEAVE THEM....take a torch and heat them up, let them cool, repeatedly over and over, this can crack them lose, but be careful because the screw will be weak. Try to take them out moderate pressure only, no go... Then let them sit with a penetrating oil, Kril etc. on the wheels. Obviously so the oil can work down the threads. We have let sets sit for 3-4 months before trying to get them out and guess what.....they come right out after this process. (Torch & penertrating)

2) broken off - this may not be what you want to hear, but depending on how they are broken off, usually flush or into the wheel....you may have to drill along side the screws, in 4-8 locations with a small drill, then wiggle out the chunk holding the screw, then drill the hole with a larger drill and make a plug out of aluminium and press it in, then re-tap a new hole. This is actually easier beleive it or not.

Alot of work, but you may find out you are usually unable to weld to these tiny screws that are broen off below the head, they are so small if weld sticks it usually breaks right away, also cutting a groove in it will work, but if it is as frozen as most usually are, the side of the screw breaks off and your back to making a plug.

Make sure to put new screws in with ANTI SEEZE....

Hope this helps.

 

Good info there, Falfa.

 

This is the same thing i do, has worked for me, i tried the heating and cooling and it didnt work, maybe its cause i didnt wait a couple months =)

 

I guess I got lucky! These wheels had been sitting a very long time and I managed to get all the cap screws out. (fentons maybe?)

 

Hellbilly, if you read my post we wait that long at times,because penetrating oil or Kril needs time to work. And yes it works, they come out like they were just put in,
We dont heat and cool and leave them for months.....
Alot of people fill the big hole with JB weld, kind of crude, a a,im plug pressed in allows for a nicely tapped hole...

 

If you got access to a bridgeport, you could drop a 1/8 centercut endmill down into each screw without it walking....Recently did it on a stainless screw, in aluminum.

 

not to hijack the thread ,but what kind of screws should we/i use to go back in? hardened,stainless,nylonD). what do ya'll recomend

 

Stainless and don't forget Anti-Seeze.