So I finally got my car to a roller. Now it's time to start thinking about the body a little more. I want to fix the body first before I start modifying the frame. I got the car as just the body and a few other parts. It's really pretty rough. but I've seen worse saved, so I know this one can be fixed. It's got the typical bottom 5-8 inches of rust. The subrails are okay to the b pillar. But are really rough afterwards. I know I will be replacing those. I need to to re-attach the top. And I need to redo the wood. The top and windshield frame aren't attached. here is the really bad side At this point I know I need to get a solid base to build back from. I'm planning on getting some measurements and patterns off of a unmolested car to help me align everything before I start. I was also thinking of building a table that I could attach the body to so it wouldn't move around. A thick sheet of plywood perhaps? here is my ruff draft of the step by step.... 1) With a piece of plywood....Basically I could screw the body down and have a flat surface to work with and the subrails and cowl will be stationary on it. 2) I could then tack a bunch of supports in and remove the quarters from the subrails. 3) Rebuild the subrails.... I'm thinking I can get away with replacing from the b-pillar back. Is that okay or would it be better if I did the full rails. It seems like more room for error if I do the whole rails and I'd like to save as much henry as possible. 4) re-install quarters on new subrails. along with the windshield frame 5) Re-install the roof once I have the quarters where I want them? 6) patch panels.... Should I weld In patch panels after I Fix the subrails and reinstall what's left of the rear body or do it before putting the body back together? I was thinking of taking everything apart and fixing all the metal then putting it back together? Good Idea or Bad Idea? Should I remove the body wood before welding? Do you think this is a viable plan? Would it be better to get the under body wood kit and do this on the frame? thanks for any input on this and what ever I missed
To start, you need a good full sub rail ***embly with cross channels and rear crossmember installed.. Then you can set the body or parts on the sub ***embly and start at the cowl and work backwards to start aligning things.. If you can get the cowl on the sub ***embly and then the quarter panels on, then you may be able to put the top and rear panel on; then the doors, suspension, drivetrain, and take it for a drive....... Good luck
Mine were the same way. I pulled all the body panels apart and sandblasted the inner structure then totally replaces the entire subframe with full lenght rails and new channels then I took some 1 x 2 11ga tubing and tucked it inside the subrails and welded it side to side and front to back. Then took a sheet of steel and made a new floor. Lot of work but now the floor and subrails are way stronger than most cars on the road.
i would say just tack weld it in first. make sure the doors and all line up up and close with no problems. i would even go as far as bracing it up with some 1 inch box first. just temp till you get things aligned.
If your frame is a roller, bolt the subrails to the frame, and build the car on top of it. Get the cowl mounted solid, and hang the doors. Position the quarter panels where they line up with the reveal lines and latch ***y, then tack them on. Go front to rear on the patch panels ans dont forget to get the deck lid hinged and gapped before you weld up the rear. You can add tubing as mentioned, to stiffen everything up. If you do it right, the doors will remain gapped properly whether the body is on or off the frame. A rear firewall would really stiffen the entire body ***y, just sayin...
My dad & I had the same issue with his coupe. we ended up replacing the whole subframe from the A pillar back. my best advice is to get your frame square & level & build the subframe & body structure on it. Measure everything three times & then measure it again after you tack weld everything. here is the build thread. lots of pics & if you want any specifics PM me. I have lots of other pics that are not posted as well. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348159
Based upon experience I was thinking along the same lines. I would advise that the most important thing is to have the body bolted down to the frame you are going to use before cutting and welding. These A bodies flex a WHOLE lot and if you weld it up on something other than the frame it will not be aligned when you attach it to your frame. BAsed upon your questions I would also advise either replacing one item at a time or if you have to dis***emble more than one item brace the body to keep it from flexing and moving on you...because it surely will.
Seeing how I started with a cowl and nothing else. I put in new full length subframes to start with. I did it while I had everything resting on top of a plywood base, that was on the rear part of a frame from a 77 C10. I later bought part of a Tudor which I had taken measurements from. These turned out to be wrong as it had rusted and spread over time. The only part I kept was a door, the frame, and the B pillars. I removed what was left of the wood on the pillars and welded them up. Hope this helps.
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