How do you all run hard brake lines through bulkheads? Seems all of the adapters I've looked at are inverted flare to AN. Don't they have inverted flare (45 degree) fittings for both sides to run my hard lines? Is there a reason to go from I.F. to AN? I'm planning the layout for the brake lines on my '34 Plymouth. I've already got the Wilwood master cylinders mounted under the dash and disc brakes at the corners. I first planned hard lines but every flare I made with my cheap-o flare kit came out ugly. I considered doing braided lines but ended up getting a real good deal on a nice Eastwood flaring kit (perfect flares every time!) so its hard lines as much as possible. I want to run hard lines under the dash to a pair of bulkhead fittings at the bottom of the firewall. Then I can run hard lines from the firewall to the front and back brakes. This is my first time doing brake lines so I want to make sure I do it right and safe the first time. Thanks!
I still can't find bulkhead fittings that are inverted flare only . Maybe I can run an I.F. to -3 AN bulkhead fitting at the firewall then run two braided lines to a T connector at the frame with I.F. fittings going out to hard lines again.
I cant remember exactly since its been awhile, but if you use all wilwood products, why not stay with all AN? I thought they were all that AN style (discs, masters). Its terribly confusing when replacing lines down the road to have different ends on them. I believe there are adapters for hardlines with AN too, but not sure... Good luck either way!
I usually try to stay all 45 degree flare, or all 37, on the same car. I actually prefer 37 degree (AN). Even with a crappy flaring tool, its much easier to get a good AN single flare than a good 45 degree double flare, especially if you are working with stainless. Most fittings are available in nickel, or black, so you don't have to have all that tacky red/blue eveywhere. In your case, you'd need another flaring tool, but its a good thing to have around.
In my earlier days I used to take a bolt and drill it thru and tap it for 1/8" pipe. The pipe to brake adapters were easy (cheap) to find compared to bulk head fittings. I'd like to say I'd do things differently today, but I'd probably do the same unless I could find bulk head fittings for dirt. BTW I have also used bolts (fine thread) for regular brake fittings as well. A little lathe work can go a long way sometimes.
Neat idea! Gives you a little more meat to keep from rounding those pesky line nuts off, too. To the OP, you can buy the 1/8" NPT internal bulkheads that HemiRambler mentioned making. They are used in industrial applications as well as rodding. Check companies like McMaster/Carr or Grainger.
That would look sorta OEM and you could also use flare joiner fittings inside the firewall if routing a continuous line is a bit snakey. (Thats FLARE JOINER...not a compression fitting. Comp fittings are NOT rated for brake work. Flare joiners use a regular double flare and fitting.)
i've used pipe bulkheads for trans coolers and just screwed in the inverted flare ends, kinda ugly but works. http://cgi.ebay.com/BRASS-PARKER-FLUID-REDUCING-BULKHEAD-FITTING-X207ACBH-6-/200264072586?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item2ea0ab3d8a or you can make a flare union work with some e clips and a lot of work.
Thanks for all the feedback! Exwestracer, thanks for the McMaster-Carr suggestion. That's the first I've heard of them and now I've found they have the solution for several other problems I'm working. I'm going to join a a pair of male/female NPT to I.F. adapters so I have the flared connections on either side of the firewall.
i tried that on my cooler lines but it didn't feel like it fully tightened together to me, so i went with the bulkhead fittings. depending on how thick the firewall is it might not tighten enough, pipe thread seals near the end of the threads (tapered). it will leak with brake pressure behind it if it's not super tight, i have to crank down hard on fittings at work and it's only running 2000-2500 psi of water pressure.
Just be sure you install a line nut in each fitting before you tighten the pipe threads. The wall of those fittings is very thin, and I've seen a lot of them distorted and ruined just tightening them up. The line nut gives you a lot more support.
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