Hey all, I need help with the original breaks on my car, first off the return spring on my rear break (driver side) broke so I put new ones on both sides. I noticed the cylinder on the p***enger<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDo***ent> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <wunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDo***ent> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> side leaked a little break fluid when I replaced the spring. Ok, so Im not so good adjusting drum breaks in the first place and not even sure where to put more break fluid. Right now the car has no breaks at all, help?
put brake fluid in the master cylinder. there is an access point for this on the drivers side floorboard,next to the gas pedal. if your wheel cylinder is leaking, it might be going bad. It should be rebuilt, or replaced. with your stock brake system if the wheel cylinder leaks out all the fluid, you will have no brakes at all. I don't know the particulars on adjusting huck brakes, so I will let someone else explain that.
The part about losing all brakes is an important difference between old brakes and "modern" dual circuit brakes. A leak in a wheel cylinder can totally empty the master cylinder's fluid reservoir overnight, and in the morning when you hop in and drive away, ZERO brakes. Also, if it is a rear wheel cylinder that's leaking, the fluid will get all over the shoes and inside of the drum, so that when you try to stop with the handbrake/parking brake/"emergency brake", it won't work either. Don't bother asking how I figured this out. Good luck with your repair.
Got any friends to show you how?if not you need to replace both rear wheel cylinders if one is leaking,brakes on the car are more inportant than how fast you can go,being honest about not knowing what you are doing is a step in the right direction. Try to find a local Hamber to come over and help you out,pay attention to everything he tells you and does,good luck .
Hey thanks guys I knew some on here would give me some advice. So, I have no idea how the return spring broke. I was driving around one day and heard a rubbing noise coming from the rear tire area. I thought it was my rim rubbing on the quarter panel but checked the rim and tire..no scratches or signs of rubbing. I took the drum off and out came the return spring in two pieces. I did still have breaks tho, not as much but the car was stopping. That is until I replaced both break shoe return springs, after that no stopping. Jon, thank you for the location advice I had no idea where it was and would have never found it on my own...well maby some day I would have. So ill look under the floor board. I do have friends that can help but, I dont want to look like a total idiot on this I usually do some research before asking for help, if I still need it.
This thing stock with the original Huck brakes, or does it have newer Bendix brakes on it? It makes a big difference.
The return springs just wear and "brake" sometimes 2x on checking fluid Also you did get the correct replacement spring, right? If it's to strong the pads may not reach Along with that, once the shoes get brake fluid on them, they should be replaced
For sure I will check the break fluid! right now its too dam cold outside here in NM, looks like snow is comin but I will definately do that this weekend. I did put the springs on the correct place, only one side broke so I just looked at the other side, besides its pretty dam simple....or so I thought. Im not sure if the shoes got brake fluid on them, when I took the drum off everything was dry but the "no breaks" problem might have been leaking fluid and might have gotten on the shoes. Ill check it out. Im pretty dam sure they are original breaks, not sure what bendix breaks look like but everything else on the car is OG so Im guessing breaks are too.
Brakes= what slow your car down Breaks is what happens when your brakes fail Get it straight skippy it is pretty important
the wheel cyl probably has rust and pitts in the center between the cups and when you put the spring on it pushed the cups(pistons) back over the bad area and caused the rubber cups to leak fluid out....if rustynewyorker is correct, then you need to get those repair kits and hone the cylinders and fix them...not a difficult job but necessary....pick up a repair manual for your car and just keep on learning! Good to hear you want hands on!!
leaky wheel cylinder, broken spring... sounds like it is time to get a repair manual and go through the whole system front to back.
Yea I agree with you guys, and breaks are VERY inportant I know so yea I do need to get a complete break kit. Any suggestions on where to get them? I know Chevys of the 40s and Bob's Cl***ic Chevy have them. Any more you guys recommend?
I've purchased from Chev's of the 40's (ships within the week) The rubber brake cup has the bore size molded in it...After dis***embly (aka inspection) What my buddy's '50 convertible 216-3spd needed, was just brake cups for the rears (1" cups) (locally sourced) The fronts needed the whole rebuild kit, these fronts had the twin star wheels on the wheel cylinder itself, only a 2 year item 49-50 (1-5/16" cups)
Well, so much for the sly innuendo and cutsey remarks. Time for a more direct approach. HEY FIG, THE THINGS THAT STOP YOUR CAR ARE BRAKES, NOT "BREAKS!!!! OK?
He is obviously not reading the replies, or just refuses to actually learn something Makes you wonder how successful his car repairs will be
Honestly, if I had a '50 Chevy that needed rear brakes, I'd look around for a '53-'54 rear end and swap it in. You'd get better style brakes (Bendix self energizing) for which the replacement parts are much cheaper, and a more road friendly gear ratio to boot. All of the '50s I've seen had 4.11:1 gears, while the standard shift '53-'54s had 3.70:1 and the Powerglides had 3.55:1.
Chevs of the 40's has cylinders for '50. Pricey, but available, at least in their 09 catalog. Maybe available elsewhere too.
One of our customers brought in a '36 Chevy pickup this summer for a brake job, and the local Parts Plus got us all four cylinders from Raybestos. They're the same from '36-'50.
Sorry Carl La Fong, Im horrible at spelling............. and fixing breaks (I mean Brakes). So HEATHEN, the rear end off a 53-54 should bolt right on? dimensions the same?
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