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Rear wishbone locators?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gearheadbill, Nov 16, 2010.

  1. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,339

    gearheadbill
    Member

    Any thoughts on which type (heim, tie rod end, 4 bar end, clevis etc.) of ends to use when splitting rear bones? Buggy spring, bones split but not spread very wide apart, open drive.

    Same question about a torque arm. Also why.

    Yes; I've spent several hours searching and reading the HAMB archives but have not come up with anything definitive. Rolling Bones use heims, you see a lot of 4 bar ends used; also tie-rod ends.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 17,621

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    I use ford tie-rod ends.
     
  3. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,339

    gearheadbill
    Member

    Thanks Rocky.

    Anyone else?
     
  4. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    Jimmy2car
    Member
    from No. Cal

    My setup is real similar to Oldrelics. I also use the Ford tierod ends
     
  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,289

    F&J
    Member

    Probably not what you want to do, but I used a 32 front yoke to make my 35/36 bones into a real wishbone. I do not have a torque arm yet, but will need to tie it to one side of the yoke.

    I think 33/34 yokes are the same and maybe Model A would work. There are a few cars on hamb running a rear wishbone.

    If I was going to run them split, I would also use tie rod ends for sure.
     

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  6. Russ B
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,592

    Russ B
    Member

    I used tie rod ends on split Model A rear bones with a 4.27:1 open drive shaft rear end and a 327 in the '60s on my Model A. They took on an arch shape quickly. ...not good. I might try them as lower arms in a triangulated rear setup in the near future; but not where a torquey motor and a bit of traction can twist them up. In a triangulated 4 bar setup they would only be in tension or compression, not under a bending stress.
     
  7. barry wny
    Joined: Dec 31, 2009
    Posts: 451

    barry wny
    Member

    I like that, very tidy, may re-think my next project & try it
     
  8. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    I did the same thing with my '48 rears. Used a '48 front ball and socket.

    I also made a fork type of torque arm as I also have an open drive

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Pete
     
  9. KS Fats
    Joined: Aug 19, 2005
    Posts: 83

    KS Fats
    Member

    Just food for thought :The wall thickness of the rear bones is thinner than those used on the front because the torque tube resists the bending stress. With an open driveline use modified fronts and you'll gain strength....some type of torque arm will still be needed....if memory serves me correctly 3/4 and 1ton trucks used a larger tie rod end also......good looking stuff ; any provision for lubrication on the ball and socket arrangement??
     

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