cheap small dainty steering boxes

Yup, the centerline of the sector shaft is exactly where the original one was.
I had to redrill the frame for the F100 hole pattern...The fender directly above
the pitman arm had to be m***aged slightly to clear the pitman arm hub and
lock bolt.

 

I don't know if they could work, but I've seen some small steering boxes in light garden tractors from Kubota and John Deere.

Thee are also some tiny boxes used in older golf carts, but those might be too light duty.

 

How about a stock manual '67 camaro box?

pdq67

 

Check out some of the "Ross" and other make steering boxes used
on some older fork-lifts..

Mart3406
=================================================

 

Ugh - I wouldn't use a box that wasn't designed for a road-going car...
.

 

Use an early Mitsubishi Colt [ Lancer in NZ / Aussie / UK ] or an early Mitsubishi Galant RWD or Starion if you want to have power steering.
They are a neat compact little unit

The Mitsubishi steering boxes are mounted on the "outside" of the ch***is rails, which is perfect for RHD conversions [ We use RHD boxes in LHD race cars ]

It would be perfect for a g***er straight axle with "cross steer",because you can use a longer steering rod [ less bump steer ]
Also if you lay the box over sideways all the mounting bosses are on the underneath side
[ all laid over boxes should have the pitman arm pointing upwards unless you "Reverse" the steering box ]
The Mitzy box has a 16:1 linear ratio

I personally used a RHD Mitsy box in a '70 Corvette to eliminate the troublesome power steering "Rams", this is also a very common swap in early Mustangs for circuit racing here in NZ [ a Delica van "rag joint" almost bolts up to a GM steering column, only a minor bolt hole allignment is needed ]

 

When I built the HEmi Jeep i went straight down and steer just under the frame rail. The box is mounted high in the cowl on one of the crossbars right tight to the side. I extended the shaft and made the Pitman arm . It worked real well. The steering box is completely out of the way. The extended shaft goes down right by the frame rail so it used up little in the way of foot or leg room. There was no need to cut any holes in the side of the cowl. The car steers well even with engine in and driver too. The end result looked very neat. I sold the car but may have a photo. I used a 50s Pont box.
Don
Use the zoom (rh corner windows) to enlarge and look straight down from the cowl. You should be able to see the steering arm just peeking out.
I made this RHSteer because i wanted to. It does after all have a postal Jeep (RHD) grill. That has nothing to do with why it couldnt be done LHSteer.
A word of warning re tiny steering boxes. A friend BOUGHT a bantam altered and installed his blown big block With the weight of the big chevy and the tiny race car steering box he is unable to steer the car at rest at all and has put it aside. I use regular steering boxes from real cars because the extra couple of pounds are a small price to pay for being able to drive the thing. With the box mounted so the pitman shaft is vertical and steering out under thef rame rail the room thing is nonexistant. The Pitman arm by the way is not much over an inch under the frame rail so clearance is not even an issure.

 

I have an 80's Datsun steering box stashed for a future project... about the size of a Vega box. Borgeson makes a u-joint for it, too. And I ******ed the steering column. After removing all the plastic, the shaft is a perfect size for an early roadster or coupe...

 

A 90-94 (pretty sure thats the years) Isuzu pickup steering box is pretty small as well. It has a splined shaft and a u-joint factory so it would be pretty easy to mount up to whatever you want.

 

Izuzu are nice and small- great for a T!

 

VW bus!!! small and work great.

 

Here are some pics, it is a Spirit 23 T ch***is with a Vega box. Excuse the hi-tech "tie rod end". I wanted to illustrate the path of the drag link. I think Spirit sells the bracket seperately, I bought the offset pitman arm from them. Feel free to ask any questions, I am far from an expert but as long as I am stumbling through it I would love to share the info.

 

That Vega box is above scrubline?

.

 

I dont have the suspension mounted yet but I am pretty sure that the box is above the scrub line.

 

I used a Ross steering box (willys jeep) and mounted it upside down for cowl steering. Very small and dainty, worm drive full of oil, I reccomend filling it with grease and NOT taking out the steering shaft.

 

I used a 62 VW van box on my 27 t, 3 turns lock to lock and easy to mount, drag link style and parts are available from VW van sights. I still have one put back for just in case.

 

26 roadster; I just put a VW van box in my 32. Mine came from a barn where an old time VW shop stored parts from the early 60s. I had been thinking my box is from the pre-1955 "barn door" bus. My box is 2-2/3 lock to lock. It is also marked with a large ROSS on the casting.

Just wonder if your box is marked like that?

Mine steers real nice parked on cement floor. I had to lengthen the pitman arm...I am sure you did too?

 

F&J, i shortened the steering arm at the wheel, thought it was easier!

 

Please don't shoot me for saying this a buddy of mine is rebuilding a early 70's toyota land cruiser it has the coolest stering box for an early rod plate on top of the frame small box and side steer pitman arm less room than a f1. Looked cool but its a toyota.

 

reversed corvair on a fairly low T ch***is..
ive read that bmw boxes will work also, not sure though..

 

Got any pictures of that set up hillbilly? I was thinking about going with cowl steering and I know I have a 46 Willys steering box stored in my trailer at a friends farm. I'd be real interested in seeing that installation.

 

One of the prettiest boxes around is the one Land Rover uses on the older style (traditonal?) ch***is.

It's a finned (why?) cast aluminum piece. Not really small, but really "right" looking. The way the steering is set up on the LR, you'd need the right-hand drive unit (easiest to find anyway).

 

We are using a Toyota 4 x 4 manual box on it's side, on top of the frame rail, on a '38 Chev. Fits well, is strong and cost all of 20 bucks. The other one we're using is a '66 Econoline, on top of the rail. Works great but is expensive to rebuild- I'd go w/the toyota.

 

I know this will probably be laughed at but what about a rack
Pic show the rack on my T. There are a couple more pics on my thread. FadT build.
gerry

 

32 ford stock.

 

Sorry, i do not have any good pictures. The truck i did it on is in Tennesee now.

It was real simple though. Like i said, flip the box 180 degrees. Make a rigged mounting surface for it, 3 holes on a flat plate nothing complicated. The take the Ross pitman arm and cut the "arm" part off so all you have is the splined area. Find a piece of heavy wall pipe that has a large enough I.D. to fit over the nut with a socket on it. (1.5 pipe IIRC) Weld the pipe on the splined part of the pitman arm. Take a heavy washer and weld it to the other end of the pipe, drill about 5 holes in it. Then take another heavy washer, drill holes so it will bolt onto the "coupler" you just made, then weld some heavy round stock to that long enough to extend out the side of the cowl. Make a new pitman arm out of 1/2 plate and weld it to the round stock. I went to TSC and picked up a sealed bearing and race and mounted it to the cowl side.

I know this would make alot more sense with pictures, i apologize for that. If you need me to clarify just ask.

 

Here, this thread is perfect for y'all. Its what inspired me to make mine.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297314&highlight=cowl+steering

 

ahhh a cheap dainty box... Ive been trying to find one of those since highschool!