I am installing a set of fatman fab. drop spindles on my 51 chevy, i have everything done exept the tie rod to steering nuckle arm switched. i am having trouble getting the steering nuckle off of the tie rod. Is there a trick to getting this off? the car is ready to go once i get these on and i need to drive the car by tuesday night. Trial and error is not a very good option when it might compromise the re-assembaly of the steering. PLEASE HELP If you help me get it off you get 1000 tech god points in my book
BFH is the way to go!!! hey also make a smaller pickle fork for tie rod ends. Just be carefull not to damage the dust boot or the threads. Good luck holmes. SLAMIT
Exactly which one are you trying to get off? You've got the drag link between the steering arm and center link, then the two tie rods from the center link to each steering arm...you do know you don't have to use a fork to get the tie rods out? a well place blow at the right spot on the steering arm will pop it right out...any chance of a pic of what you are tying to get off? Brian
Heat! Put a propane torch on it and heat it for a little while. Then use the seperator and the BFH and it should pop right out.
No trick. A pickle fork and a big hammer is all you need. I assume you've already taken the nuts off tie rod ends, right? If not, they're held on with cotter pins.
Thanks alot guy i got it off woth a little fire and a BFH. all buttoned up but now there is like 8 degrees of positive camber. I know it needs a alignment but is this too far out of spec to align properly?
The camber is adjusted by the eccentric at the top of the spindle upright. Try it and see how far it'll move. Back a few years ago front end shops used to heat and bend the upright. Those tools mostly went the way of the dodo bird given the advent of balljoints and different adjustment systems 45/50 years ago. Might talk to the oldest guy at the oldest front end shop in town.... Charlie
Why are you agreeing with that Jake, it didnt work too good on yours. I hope reed isnt too mad. But, I think on jakes it was just a retarded one, so you should be fine with a pickle fork and a hammer.
Ok i got it all set now i found the online manual and all is great now. 2 1/2" lower is much better. still not low enough but better. How low can you really go on the front while still having wheel well clearence while turning? I am going to be swapping a 350 in the near future and i am wondering if it would be better to wait till then to cut the springs, as the weight difference might compress them a little more. Thanks again guys
I don't think that a SBC will weigh more than your stovebolt, but best to wait. Another lowering trick (provided your car is 49-52) is to swap in 53-54 uprights. They were about 3/4" lower than the 49-52 uprights. Doesn't sound like a ton of lowering, but it's the difference between 2 inches and 3 inches. As fate would have it, I have a pair. PM me if you're interested.
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