How I lowered a 1962 F-100 with an axle flip (1961-1964 I-Beam)

Are you going to go to a mono leaf too? I got about the same amount of drop on my 62 just by losing the majority of the leaf pack and leaving the axle in stock location. Fromn the top of the spring to frame rail there was just about 2" over all. I trimmed my factory bump stops some but left them there to try to avoid axle to pan issues. I have also decided to flip mine but leave the springs softer. I will be using a earlier axle with the dip in the middle to add some pan clearance.

Do you know someone who deals with a stock style and rate spring with moved axle location. I too want to shift everything forward.

Are you going to build a new steering shaft to keep the wheel in a favorable location? My plan was to just move the box up but to lengthen the rod to the axle the amount of axle shift. I will have two u-joints to keep the stock wheel location. I ask this question since we appear to be of similar size (6-3 250ish) and to bring the wheel further down to accommodate the straight shaft will not work for me.

 

Great detailed work there!! Very Nice. I'd be a little carefull on using mono-leafs. Had a friend in Vegas do it and handled terribly. He ended up using the stock springs with reversed eyes/flipped and worked just fine after that. I see in the latest issue of Custom&Classic Trucks, Fatman Fab has a new has a rear axle drop set up you can buy without "C" notching the frame that will lower it 5 in. with stock springs. Its the Dec. 2010 issue on page 78.

Michael

 

For the positive caster of 10* will be harder to turn but that isn't the intent for speed records
I love lowered uni's and this is a great post -

 

Nice plan in action, with I beam axle flip I like it. Making a salt racer too, looking forward to more.

for the cast axle people, look at post #4 the 5th picture... perfect picture of the forged detail.

 

Looks great Todd keep us posted

 

A way to tell cast from forged with your eye is the parting line of the part. Cast will have a thin parting line and forged will have a wider parting line. Same goes for connecting rods, cranks, etc.

 

It's funny this is even an issue, I've never seen a "Cast" axle on an old truck. Maybe some after market stuff but who in their right mind would use w cast axle on a truck.

Yes that is a good way to tell the difference.

 

Figured I would mention this since I did not see it written in any post . Ready rod is not strong enough to be used as axle locating hardware. The ready rod should be replaced with grade 8 bolts heavy washers and related hardware. The lower spring plates need to be a min of 3/8 cold rolled plate with angled end plates . I do tech for the usfra, this is the kind of stuff I look for advise on. If the axle is below the wheel line, you should incorporate a slider or skid to keep the front end from tearing up the track. Build this with a rule book in hand and you will be fine.

 

Word.

 

He has already posted that he has U-bolts ordered and was just using the all thread for mock-up purposes. He also posted that the lower plate was also only for mock-up. People should read all the threads before condemning a persons work. Great thread by the way.

 

I did an axle flip on my dad's '58 Chevy pickup. The truck rides nice, and sits really cool:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245130

 

Not to worry Brian, Todd has the rule book in hand and as said before this is just for "mock-up".

This is not our first LSR truck. I talked with you out on the salt last Aug in the pits with the yellow '57 F-100.

 

Looks Great Todd, we did this on our International Drag Truck and it worked, no problem!

 

That's a good thought Dave...worth checking out. Hadn't even considered it.

No worries, I am having u-bolts made. I kept the original plates (that used to be on top of the axle) that the original u-bolts nested within to use as patterns for the heavy plate (which will now be mounted below the spring pack). And since we are retaining the original axle (no "dip" like the earlier axles) it will not hang below the lowest plane of the leaf spring (see post #5). In fact, the only items close to the scrub line are the leaf springs. I also removed the 3 smaller leafs from each side to provide additional lowering and raise the plane of the bottom edge of the spring pack. And I'm wearing out my rule book

It's just a common adjustment, particularly when installing a MII (like I have on my '60) or a stub frame. The axle centerline, when drastically lowered into the fender opening appears too far to the rear of the opening. It always drives me crazy, and I wish I had moved the c/l forward 2" instead on 1" on my '60 F-100 in my avatar. I would have done this regardless, but the added benefits of weight distribution are just a positive side effect.

 

You go Todd!!

Apparently Gear Head Graphics didn't learn his lesson the first time he asked about welding to "cast axles". LMAO

I'm with Scooterseats,it never ceases to amaze me how many people pop off or ask for answers to questions already covered in text without reading it first.

 

Attention thread police, I read the entire thread and apologise that I missed the fact that ubolts were going to be used. The comment can be used by the ones thinking that ready rod is good to go for their own project. So sorrrry to any one that was upset with what I said. To all others put it under your hat for future advise.

 

I think I was one of the few who didn't get my panties in a wad ...I welcome good input even when laced with sincere concern.

I agree that there are those who would see the bolts, as well as the 3/16" bottom plates as the "final" approach, based only on the pictures.

Stay tuned Brian, I welcome your input!

 

I don't think my undies are in a wad, I'll go check.

 

One of the lucky few, I suppose!

More updates this weekend. Appreciate all of the input!

 

What class are you building to run in?

 

E/PP for now, then with an engine swap D/PP. The truck will be built to 175 mph spec but all we need to do in the beginning is 130.

 

I like your signature mctim.

 

Thanks! that's the way you have to think when you race old pickups.

 

Tim and Todd, Will stay tuned to see how your build comes along. I may ressurect one of my '57 F-100 P/U's to be a street cruiser in this config. Did you respond to the suggestion of swap springs end for end to center axle ?

 

Great tech and pics! I'm getting excited to see how it all turns out, and I'm really happy that I can do this to my '64!

Do you know of any online resources for this? I looked at the website but couldn't find anything, probalby just haven't posted it yet. I have sent them an email as well for more detail.

 

Going to give it a close measure, but I don't see it being offset the amount I need (want).

 

You would have to be wearing them before they could be in a wad...LOL !

 

Just a few pictures today...was hoping to get this done, drill the springs and remount the axle in the new location, but I broke my last good drill bit after the first side was drilled...oh well...

At least I got the perches and boxing plates welded in...

Front:


Back:


That should do it:


Just going to round the sharp corners of the mounting plate, and call it good. Gonna get a couple more bits tomorrow so I can finish moving the axle c/l forward, and then move on the relocating the steering column.

Off to a birthday party...

Todd