Its late and was wondering what would be a good engine to build just for the fun of doing it aside from a sbc 350. Something that parts are readily available and not so expensive.
small block ford V8, 6 cyl Ford 250 or chevrolet 230/250 6 cyl ........probably others would do as well......just those that came quickly to mind. Ray
289 or 302 ford are almost as cheap as a sbc, I have to buy a lot of parts at work and those two are the cheapest. Also, the sbf is cheaper if you want ARP bolts, since the ford has 10 head bolts per side and the chevy has 2 or 3 hundred. JW
Summit has lifters for a SBC for 3 dollars each, International SV engines are 10 dollars each. However, for what its worth SVs regularly get 400k miles before a rebuild is required, so in the end. They are about equal. Parts for most 1960s-present v8s are readily available. Cheap to one person might be pricey to another. If you dont want to build a SBC, than a Small block ford, or small block Chrysler are probably the 2 most abundant and affordable to build in a mild or close to stock form.
I really like the 289 for the higher compression and torque , the 302 is another great engine and then the 5.0 are a dime a dozen on C/L ! You can get good running engines for $200 and up around here . Get a 5.0 roller engine and you get build a really nice engine for less than you think . Plus Ford puts the distributors in the right place , up front ! Chevy put them in the wrong place and then you have to find room from the firewall so the distributor doesn't hit ! Roller cams are easy to find used and they work fine . They roller lifters you just use stock ones . I even know a place that sells re-manufactured for about $50 to $60 if you really need them . I have used the stock roller lifters many times with no problem . This is for a street car not a drag engine . Many of the 5.0 come with forged pistons . If you get an Explorer engine them have GT40p hedas and flow very nicely . They come with roller timing chains . Pretty much an easy performance engine to build cheap . Then drop on a used alum. intake and a 600 Carb and you have a stout , good torque engine that won't cost $1200 . As long as you do all the work except the machine work if necessary . I even have a really nice used TFS roller cam for $100 plus shipping if you need that . As for a 289 you will need to have exhaust seats installed and will cost more to have the machine work done . Still you can get 300 hp with out much trouble and money ! Retro Jim
Big block MoPar. Pretty cheap to build, lots of power, and if you're a novice engine builder, they go together real easy.
It sounds like you are just trying to get some experience building an engine. How about signing up for a shop class in an adult school, JC, or technical school and that way they will be footing the bill for the parts. If you want to do it yourself how about an American 4 banger like the Chevy II or Iron Duke. Charlie Stephens
Not much easier than a Mopar SB 318 put together and go ,no adjusting valves,heck you can even do the valve seats yourself.
I'd go with the small block chevy 'cause they're alot nicer looking with the right external parts; intakes and valve covers....
If I had my choice of a vintage type hot-rod engine my vote is Y-BLOCK!!! These look killer and with the correct parts choices will run like a RAPED APE !!! Only draw back is parts are quite high in price >>>>.
You can walk into almost any bookstore and a lot of autoparts houses and pick up a copy of how to rebuild your : small block Chev, small block Ford or small block Mopar. You can find all online in a number of places and used off Amazon. When I was teaching auto mechainics a friend with a wrecking yard would sell me three of four complete fan to flywheel rebuilders every fall that I would have my beginner classes go through as a class. You can learn how to rebuild an engine with any engine you drag home but I would go with one of the three popular small blocks for a first one as it's easier to find the right info if you run into issues and parts are a lot less expensive if you damage one. You can buy a rering kit for a 350 Chev with rings, gaskets, rod and main bearings for under 80.00 from Northern Auto parts and a couple of other places. The complete rebuild kit from Northern Auto Parts for a 350 Chev is under 200. That's pretty inexpensive either way for an education in rebuilding an engine. I've got one of their rering kits in my OT truck with a number of years of trouble free driving on it and lots of miles so they work. I wouldn't suggest trying to do something like a Y block as a first engine with no experience as a lot of the older and maybe cool to have engines also require special attention in some areas to get them right. Not a killer but maybe more headaches than you want for a first try. I'd also have to ask what you intend to put it in when you are done. That might be a big factor in what you work on.
Cruise on up to San Mateo and I will give you a SBF to rebuild if that's what you want. 289/302-351 W or C or M. Or a V6. Lots of fun.
BBF as used in any Ford Truck can be built into an absolute torque/hp monster for reasonable cash. finding a decent running 1975ish 460 for little cash is easy and by just changing the timing chain and gears to 1970 429 specs is good for about 30+ hp. Add a single plane intake and headers with dual exhaust and you are well on your way to laying long black marks. Even better, Ford Motorsport (used to? still does?) sell some very strong cams for less than $100. Listed as P/N M-6250-A443 and M-6250-C460 with lift in the .562/.588 and .588/.614 range respectively. cam for $92 http://www.autopartsdealer.com/ford...cse&utm_campaign=froogle&utm_content=APD42505 Good reading on what to expect form a stock block build up: http://www.fordforums.com/f641/ford-460ci-engine-rebuild-141487/ Using the M-6250-C460 cam : http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?p=658651 A decent set of 73 and earlier heads bring compression up into the 10 to 11 range with stock style piston will put you into some pretty big hp numbers when all above is combined. I would expect to pay less than $500 for decent 73 earlier heads, Around $100 for the cam and about $75 for the 429 timing chain/gears. Stock style pistons in the 10 or 11 compression range go for about $40 each The above combination will put you into some very respectable hp/torque numbers for decent money. If you wanna get wild, SCAT sells balanced stroker crank kits (rods, pistons, crank, bearings etc.) to put the 429/460 into the 500+ cubic inch territory without having to relieve the stock block (clearancing for the crank) unlike the bbc which is hard to stroke due to the blocks tight skirting. SCAT balanced crank kits are relatively cheap at around $1800 if a guy wants to put himself into the 600++ hp range if you want to stray away from the idea of a cheaper big block rebuild. All in All, it's hard to beat the relatively light $$ you'll spend on building up a BBF into a basic 400hp engine but with the addition of the scat crank and some careful planning you can add a good %50 to your hp/torque curve for a relatively cheap outlay. Other than that, the SBF is amongst the cheapest as well as the most reliable builds there is. .
Thanks if I were to choose one which one should pick? Which one is a little more on the performance side?
My vote also for the 460 Ford, very plentiful, easy to build, perf parts can be morfed from other Ford engines, and new go fast goodies are reasonable. 500 plus inch stroker kits are reasonably priced, and the mods to install them are relatively easy. Gives you the basic knowledge, and theory behind building something much more radical in the future. Have fun with this one. BDM
If you're not doing a SC, then there is just about nothing easier and inexpensive as a SBF. I'd look for a later 5.0 302 roller motor, put a set of GT40P heads on it, E303 hydraulic roller cam, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600 and you'll have over 300 reliable horsepower at a low cost. The 302 is a very small, light and easy to build V8 - a perfect engine to learn on and it will fit into just about any hotrod - just know what oilpan setup you need!
just a note, A 302 is fitted with SAE pistons and a 5.0 liter is fitted with more expensive metric pistons. Save money on your rebuild by reverting to 302 stock style pistons rather than replacing the more expensive 5 liter pistons. Early 5 liters, or about 87 and up 5 liter will *only* come with the roller cam if it came out of a Lincoln or a Mustang. For some time Ford cast two different 5 liter blocks (into the early 90's), the early 302/5.0 style block *without* provisions for roller cam and the 87 up 5 liter with provisions for roller cam. Some time early in the 90's, All blocks were cast with provisions for the taller roller lifter bosses (and supporting hardware). So just keep in mind that not all 1987up 5 liters came with the actual roller cams installed or even with provisions for the roller cam..... -You Can Not (easily) install the stock roller cam into a block that is not made to accept the taller roller lifters that are required for the camshaft whether it is said to be a 5 liter or not. .
Take a couple. They are cheep. Seems to me a 351 has to have greater potential than a 302. Spend a bunch of money on a 302 to make a 347. Why not start with a 351?
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