Will an 8BA crankshaft Fit my 59 L block? I tried fitting my 8BA crank into the rear main of my 59L block. I had less than .001 clearance at the thrust surfaces. 1. Do I just get the two thrust surfaces machined for proper clearance. I also noticed that there is only one rear main bearing seal flange on the 8BA crank. The 59 L crank has two. 2. Is the one flange going to provide sufficient seal?
When I did a similar project I got a lot of help from the old guys over at the 'Fordbarn' Give them a shout.
It will fit with either 99 0r 29 floater rods or 8BA. You need 59 style mains. Your 2 seal flanges mean you have a prewar slinger crank that ran no seal...you need to replace the die cast inserts in block with ones made for a rope seal.
Thanks Bruce.I gather you are talking about the removable die cast pieces.My insert is numbered 78-6336. Do you or anyone else out there know what part number I am looking for. Does anyone know where to get them? I already have the new rods and the proper bearings. The crank shaft thrust clearance seems to be the problem there.
Thanks BillM I checked out the site and will call them tomorrow. I think I learned that the part I need is rear main seal retainer for an 8BA. My next question is will that retainer work with my rear main bearing cap and 59 L pan?
No, you need seal retainer for '39-48 with rope type seal...used on all original 59's, some prewar I think. It's been a while since I compared, and not enough catalogs here in office, but pretty sure 8BA zinc part is different. I think Red's now makes them.
Another consideration is the cam thrust. The timing gears are not cut the same for the 59 and 8ba block. The 59ab thrust is directed to the rear away from the crab. Also the woodruff keys on the crank snout are different sizes. The fordbarn link is located at the bottom of this page. POVERY
I think the seal holder for the block you want is the 91A-6335. I have one I measured and it is 4 11/16" across its largest diameter. It came out of a block I believe is a 1947. Its pictured below along with another smaller rope seal holder I can't identify. The other issue that Bruce mentioned is the rear main cap. You probably have to change the rear main to one from a 42 to 48 (or possibly older) that used the rope seal. That my be more of a problem as it would mean line boring or honing to match the block bore, or lucking out and finding one that fit.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDo***ent> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDo***ent> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object cl***id="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> Thanks for all of your research on this issue guys. Bill, my old seal retainer that is in the cap looks like it has around 4 7/16ths O.D. The photos you show and the dimensions given don't look like anything that would work with the combination I currently have. I have not figured how to attach an image yet so I can't send you a photo of my seal/cap combination. I sure hope I don't have to go with the line boring scenario but will do it if that's the proper solution. We are trying to build a solid flatty that will survive an occasional foray on the Seattle area streets and highways without spinning bearings. I just sent a lengthy info request to Reds Headers. Their web site said they would be happy to answer technical questions. So I gave it a try. So I imagine it will take a few days to get an answer back from Reds. In the mean time I will keep checking this thread in case you guys come up with any other ideas and suggestions. I will be sure to post any info I get and will look into the posting pictures thing. To do a common thing uncommonly well, brings success Henry Heinz
Does your block have two seal retainers; one in the block and one in the main? I thought there were some main caps that used a separate piece for the seal but not sure of that. The rear main of mine has the groove for the rope seal made with the cap. The smaller seal holder I have measures 4 1/4" max OD with a 1/4" width where it would fit in a groove.
your main cap should have an aluminum insert set up for the slinger seal. they are available repop for the rope seal. the later 59a blocks came with a cap already cast for a rope seal. your thrust clearance is ***e and sometimes i run across that as various mfg tolerances stack up against you. its not a sin to carefuly lap the bearing to get the correct clearance. the real problem is too much clearance due to too much crank wear/ faulty bearing
Jetmek, if you know a actual source for this seal I sure would appreciate the info. So far I have not found a source. Bill M, I do have two separate alloy pieces that insert into the block and the rear main cap. They just are not the rope seal type . I have been trying to figure out how to get a a URL for my pictures so that I could post them. No luck so far though.
Having two seal holders brings up the possibility of using two piece lip seals from a Mopar application that has the 2 1/2" main bearing. It would require new holders to be machined but I think would be a slick solution.
BillM I have considered machining a rope seal holder. I just figured that this was a fairly common upgrade and that someone had already seen the opportunity to gear up and sell the part.Thanks for your comments. I appreciate your time and interest.
So I finally figured out how to get a URL. I am slowly being drug into this century while still playing with cars from 75 years ago.This is a picture of my current seal on the 59 L
I think I found the seal part at Mac's # 91A-6335 upper and 19B-6336 for the lower. i have no idea what the dimensions are but will check in the morning.
I ordered the seal parts from Mac's today.Upper section is on back order. So I wont know how all this will turn out for two or three weeks.
I'm interested in seeing how that seal holder in the main cap fastens to the cap. Could you possibly post a bigger picture or pictures? Just wondering if it would be possible to modify a main cap with the cast in seal groove to use a separate seal holder, in order to convert to a lip seal. Or you could email me the pictures, if its not too much trouble.
Bill, I think that main caps from the prewar 24's had an open groove that took a zinc casting about like the block one, so it could take either the labyrinthe/slinger piece or the kind to hold a rope seal. After the war, main caps took the rope seal directly. Would have to do some heavy lifting and digging to confirm that. A modern seal would be nice, but in my experience the rope seal is pretty effective on these things. The other kind...well...
BIll M I will try to post larger pics for you on your web site tonight. That is if I can figure out how to do that.I do plan to follow up on the stock inserts before launching a machining project. Bruce, That is what I have . The groove in the maincap looks identical to the one in the block. I did notice that the parts I ordered have two different numbers for top and bottom..
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