Give thanks for the Banger Meet Nov. 2010

Hillbilly-
your manifold is indeed meant for in-car heat, but you only have part of the package. There was another cast iron box that sat over what you have, with a square inlet in the front and a round outlet at the rear that matched up with a hole that had to be cut into the firewall. There are two tapped holes in the top of your manifold to hold the missing piece on. The top piece is worth much more than the manifold itself, since many times they were taken off for the summer, and subsequently lost. but anything A has some value.

Herb Kephart

 

Model A engine, what is it? Hauled this away from a lady who was using it for yard art. I'm not all familiar with Model A engines (Model T's). There is no A,B or C cast in the head. Anyone have an guess on it's original purpose? Thanks

 

Yes balancing should be almost considered a mandatory exercise on a Model A or B engine rebuild regardless of counter weighting or not. This alone can give another 1000 RPM out on the road for happier motoring .

 

The large washer with four holes is the rear flywheel dowel retainer and keeps them from vibrating out of the crank shaft.

 

Head is a diamond head, block I can't tell if it is a diamond block. I would say its frozen from the lack of nuts on the head bolts and open holes exposing the inside to fill with water over time. Just what my thoughts are. More then likely a giant paper weight or yard art as the lady was using it.-Weeks

 

I found this info. and it sounds more correct then the M***y Fergenson combine explanation as the cast date on your head is way before they were used in the combines.

"Nope, I heard that before, but the MF is for Michigan Foundry. It's a direct replacement head that was probably sold by Western Auto, or Sears or Wards or some aftermarket place. There seem to be a lot of them around, and the were discussed on here. There's an F-1 version and an F-2 version. Some said the F-2 was a high comp head, but mine definitely isn't high compression. It ran fine on my Model A."

The number ground off of your head was either a "1" or a "2".

.

 

Thanks for the correction on the MF head, I was told by an old farmer that it was M***y Furgenson.

 

Hey guys, Hope you all had a good weekend. I got this dual point distributor last week for my model A and I am trying to educate myself on it. It looks to be in pretty good condition. I'm wondering if you can still get parts for this and if so part #'s. If any info has been posted on this can you point me in the right direction. Model Y2, Type 11A, Serial no EMX 807. Thanks, TK

 

some additional pictures. It is a diamond block. The pan was full of oil and I removed the head stud nuts, so I'm hopefull it might be saved. Serial #4869984. Thanks

 

Pull the head yet? When you do get the head off make sure to "warm" the studs up with a ball peen hammer before you try taking them out. This is crucial to do or you will definitely snap studs off in the block. Also a good penetrating oil sprayed on and let set over night is a very good idea also. Any stud/bolt in the block should be warmed up as described and replace all of them with new hardware as they were originally grade 2 as I have been told. Good luck.-Weeks

 

The idler pulley tells me that it came out of a farm implament or industrial application that didn't need to generate it's own DC power.

A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF in the cylinders will welp free up the pistons if they are stuck.


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Thanks Dan, I just learned something from you with the idler pulley reference. Hope its good roadster weather down there today, I have been driving my coupe daily even in the rain a bit up north of ya. Might be down to the NHRA museum again next weekend again......-Weeks

 

I have also used diesel fuel down in the hole by setting it on fire. the heat expands the block n pston to help separate them. diesel fuel does not explode or flash like gas and is safe to do outside. old wrecking yard trick

 

I've heard of the diesel fuel as a penetrant, but not the lighting it part. I've got a block that I can experiment with. Going to have to try it !!!!!
Thanks Ken !!!!!!

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I've been out of town for the holiday and got in last night. I haven't been able to drive the car much lately, but I am signed up for the Mooneyes drags on Dec. 11th. Will you be down that week end?

.

 

Checked out my family Model A that I will be hauling home soon. (See my other post about the car) It was not stuck. Used PB Blaster in the cylinders. It moved a little the first day but not all the way. Did not want to force it. I decided to wait overnight. I was able to turn it over with the crank the next day. I plan on cleaning it up for a driver before any modifications. I am thinking check for compression, rebuild carb and replace dist, coil etc then try to start it. I am sure it will not be that simple but what do you guys think ?

 

See how the diamond has a stamped "2". Any one know what that means? I have a block with the same thing.

 

A little EXPLODING gas might free it up

 

I had a 29 roadster that was frozen and I used PB spray, Marvel Mystery Oil, Sea Foam, and diesel fuel and let it sit. thats because I had all that laying around the shop. It sat for 24 hours and finally started to give way. Beware of this ****tail though once you get it running it will smoke like hell for thirty minutes or so but its worth it. Im buying a 30 coupe on Wed. looking to get some good tips on this forum im new to the site but not new to the game

 

I have heard of the diesel fuel trick before but haven`t tried it yet. I have a couple 59ab Flatheads to experiment on though.

 

I Googled Mallory and found a source for some points, condenser, and there is a guy with some rotors. Only a couple of point numbers still available. No caps so treat it with care. A lot of the distributors are frozen, I guess they didn't oil the bearings. Clean it carefully and check for numbers on the points. It is just a nostalgia piece. I'm "restoring" one for my 2 port. I have recently picked up some of the original "Best" Mallory coils.

 

If it was frozen, you could also soak it in mol***es. Here is the thread:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=408074

 

Too bad no one repops the cool looking cap....
Ron

 

I have spares somewhere 'round here

 

An original cap would sure look more at home than the new one does. My dizzy is a single point . Would one of your's work and if it does would you part with one?
Ron

 

I posted these pictures on the 28 Chevy thread. In case some of you aren't following that thread and have any interest in Dodge bangers. Here are two pictures of my effort to fill holes in the Dodge block. Since I am still waiting on new cam/crank gears this seemed like a fun way to make some chips. Cool-0 finned tappet cover and port plugs. A connection for my Aeroquipt-Stratoflex water hose. and a plug for another hole in back of the water jacket for what purpose I know not. On the other side there was a rectangular hole leading into the tappet chamber, again I don't know why. But it was the chance for more fins. And the old intake port. Since I think oil from the rocker arms will run down the intake tract I ran a drain back into the crankcase. Also not seen is a small hole where the engine had a float attached to a wire that stuck out and indicated the oil level. It seems as though they built this thing to leak. Remember, yellow motors with fins are fast.

 

Looks good Rich. I dig the side cover!!! Definitely good for another 2-4 MPH.

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I have an old, old, old Mallory distributor... cast iron... and it has the cap with the wires that go in and the top screws on... but get this, the cap is brown.

I wonder how old it is... 30's?

Sam

 

Sam

They came in brown and black at few times over the years.

I have one that has a slot in the side of the cap for a advance/retard arm

There's an outfit in Orange County that's got a lot of NOS stuff.

Age? Cut the cap in half and count the rings

 

don't tell 'em that you're a tree-hugging greeny ..... they won't believe you