Hey Guys, I am so close to yanking the old clanky 216 outta my 50 Chev, and all of a sudden I got real nervous about my motor choice. I got it for a song out of a machine shop, it has been completly rebuilt from the ground up using the best of parts out there. The original onwer left a 500 deposit, and flaked out and the machine shop just wanted to get the money in parts back, so it cost me 550 to buy this motor. I am concerned though as it has the old style center bolt valve cover, like the 216....I have been searching threads and it seems to be a big contriversy as if this is a splash oiler or full pressured oiler. I called Patrick's and said to jump on the motor and if I didn't he would come out for Arizona and ****** it up himself, accoriding to most this should be like 3-4 thousand dollar motor after parts and machine work. Does this sound right and what do you know about these motors???? According to inliners.com its a 53-55 235 but thats about all the info I could get, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Thanks Guys!!! ID number is : 3835911
In 1953 ONLY, Chevy made two versions of the 235 for p***enger cars, both had the through the top bolts for the valve cover. On stick shift cars, the 235's were poured babbit bearing "dipper type", low pressure oil systems. For Powerglide models, they were full pressure lube, insert rod bearings. In '54 models, all 235 used the perimeter screws to hold the valve cover in place. So, IF the engine is a '53, you may have a 50/50 chance that it is insert brg/full press lube system. You might lookat the flywheel end of the crank shaft and see if there is a pilot bushing present. That would at least be a clue that is is/was a stick shift engine and likely a dipper/low press engine. However, either way, the engine is EASILY worth what you are paying for it, if for nothing else but trading or reselling to get what you really want. Driven with reasonable care, and with frequent oil changes, the dipper engines hold up pretty well and this may be an opportunity to get a very good engine at a bargain price. Your call. Ray
Plus if its been rebuilt its probably been inserted anyway. Mine was and it runs like a top. Its still low pressure but these motors are tough as hell ! Either way at 550$ you are in good shape you can sell it to a restorer type or run it until you find a decent 235.
Look on the driver's side of the block, down by the pan rail. If there's a triangular tin plate there, it's a dipper. No plate, it's pressure oiled. The pilot bearing thing is a dead end. My '52 is a 235 standard trans dipper, factory original.
What's the serial number stamped on the p***enger side aft of the distributor, near the dipstick? Also, center bolt valve covers can be easily adapted onto later 235's by using the rocker shaft bolts (with studs) from a 216 or early 235. Yours may have been converted.
This might help--some info I copied from Patrick's website I believe. "Want to pinpoint engine I.D.? On the block above the end of the starter will be an initial (A-L), followed by either (2) or (3) numbers. The initial represents the month: the numbers are the day and year the block was cast."
Like Matt said, post the engine i.d. number for the actual application of the motor, car/truck/solid lifter/hydraulic, etc. You'll need to know more than just whether it's a babbit engine or not when you do a tune up or order parts.
And as it SHOULD be...........all the Chevy 6's before '53 were dipper, regardless if they were 216 or 235 or stick or Powerglide........ re-read my post.......all I said was, if there is a pilot bushing....it is a HINT, not a certainty, that it is a dipper engine... Ray
Hollander interchange manual says that block with casting number 3835911 is often a replacement block for 53-55 engines, so it should be a full pressure engine. The stamped code in the pad just to the rear of the dizzy may help pin it down more. Also, if that small plate down low on the drivers side isn't there, then its a full pressure motor. What is the casting number on the cylinder head?
The block is covered at my brother in laws house right now, I have a tiny 2 car garage and the wife had to have ger car in the garage for Winter. I can get the numbers tomorrow, I know for a fact there is a tiny oil line inside the block inside the side cover going from the bottom of the block to the head...not sure if this is supply or return. It was supposed to be rebuilt by an old timer that knew all about these motors, and the machine shop has a real good rep-so i figure someting must be good. I was't sure is just the casting number I supplied would be enough or not. Could it be an earlier full pressure block with an older head??? were the center bolt heads better performers, and by the way I don't remember a small triangle shaped plate on the side of the block...Anyhow anymore help or info is always appreciated!!!!
Relax, Its not a babbit pounder. I just asked for the other numbers for corroboration. It may or may not have the cross drilled lifter bores, which means it could have hydraulic lifters in it. You will want to know what it has before you run it so you know how to adjust them properly. check to see that the oil filter line connections on the block are still 1/8" NPT. If larger, then it will have been converted to full flow, and you will need to run the right filter ***embly or you will burn it up. Don't worry about the valve cover. all 37-62 engines can use the two bolt valve cover. only 54-62 cylinder heads have the tapped holes for the 4 bolt valve cover, but '53-62 heads all interchange. I asked for the head numbers just to see what you had. The '56-62 heads have a larger temp sender hole, so you will need an adapter in order to use this vintage of head with you stock mechanical temp gauge. That's why I ask... The oil line under the pushrod cover is to supply oil to the rocker shaft ***embly. This is on all '53-57 motors. Issue means nothing for this discussion. The plate on the side is called an oil distribution plate. it's more kidney bean shaped than triangular. there shouldn't be one on your engine.
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevytalk/GMhistory/1916-57cast.html look for the numbers here,Either a 54 W/Powerglide or a 55
3769716 is my block number. According to a number list that was posted on another thread (see picture) it is a 58-62 235 babbit. It has a 1956 head on it according to the numbers. My engine does not have the kidney shaped tin cover on the block. Did GM have babbit pounders after 1953? I have conflicting info...
The Jalopy Journal
