What can I use for inexpensive metal/hi-build sandable primer?

Just was at my auto paint store and was quoted $170 for primer plus the chemicals to make it work. What should I use that is inexpensive and can block sand it?

 

Ouch, how about NASON products

 

User Mar Hyde $50.00 a gallon Catalyst $13.00 a pint.
I use it on the Divco

 

I have used ppg, They have a line of paint call (shop line). I think I payed $65 for the paint gallon and $35 for the harderner Shop line has a complete line of products but is not pushed too much. Joe

 

I usually drive over the border for car parts and supplies... Alot cheaper and much better selection...

 

I use a Evercoat product Slick Sand on some projects that have a lot of previous work done to them. It covers up a lot of evil for those "I just want it painted cheap" jobs. I think it costs around $80 for the primer and hardener. But you will need a large tipped paint gun to spray it 1.7 or larger.

 

PCL high build, poly primer, about $55 per gallon around here, includes hardener, and is easy to sand.

 

Nason X2

 

Montana tintable/sandable primer/sealer.
My paint guys liked it and I don't know crap about paint.

 

As usual we get robbed blind up here....funny how much the price changes when it crosses the border . I am gonna start stocking up on stuff over the winter for my 47 so it wont seem as painful when I start the bodywork.

 

I use Shop Line quite a bit. I think it is pretty good stuff.

Stan

 

stock pile enuff for me too,, lol

 

If you're buyin it in Canada, assume the position and bring out the vaselene.

 

Anybody use any martin senour?

 

I use laquer primer alot, about 45 bux a gallon and I useally buy it at the Long Beach Auto Swapmeet, but You can go to Kustomshop.com and order it, I have had poly prime kick off in the can at My place ( gets real hot here in the desert) so at 60 a can I don't use it that often. Von Doc

 

The stuff I have is 'X-treme' 2k
I bought it from Calgary bodyshop supplies formerly Sam's opposite Acklainds just of 42 Ave SE

 

I've had good luck with PPG K36 hi-build surfacer primer with K201 hardener. Fills in real good, and sands/blocks out nice..

 

Keystone, yep the ones that sell aftermarket parts, body panels ect...have a 2k urethane primer that works great and is cheap. Lippy

 

Just got done doing a 29 Roadster with Martin Senor products. I loved the high build and cost wise was in between Marhyde and PPG. Don't have my receipts handy but if memory serves the gallon of Marhyde I bought with reducer was $50 and the Martin Senor was $80.

Total material cost for the Roadster using Martin Senor products was under $800 for 2 gallons of hi-build, gallon of sealer, thinners, reducers, base and clear.

Napa also has an entry level product called Finish Line which is cheaper than the Martin Senor. A gallon of the Primer Sealer with reducer set me back $75, but sprayed super nice. I shot it on my Nova and had lots of people think it was an actual top coat rather than primer. The Finish Line 2K is right in that price range as well.

 

awesome thread. Subscribed!

 

actually you need to use the primers recommended for the complete job and not cut corners with something as your base thats going to bite you in the ass when you apply the finish coats. Mixing and matching paint systems will generally cost you more because you get to do it over when it turns to s---. Cheap ain't always cheaper

 

MARHYDE ULTIMATE 2K is EXCELLENT primer at a very good price (as mentioned above). Also, UPOL high build primer is
EXCELLENT. I refuse to pay PPG, DUPONT, RM, etc... just for
their name and expensive corporate B.S.

VR&C.

 

Kirker

 

I am with Chris... I use strickly PCL, a little more here in SB County of Ca...

 

I've heard some good things about these products:

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

 

x2! It may seem expensive now, but just wait till you get shadow lines and cracks, etc... under your top coats. At least make sure you let any primers dry fully - like 2 months, before you start top coating with a different brand product. Usually that will save some shrinkback...

20 minutes extra prep in the body/filler will save you hours later.

 

Try House Of Color you can get a good deal from TCP GLOBAL. Also PPG NCP line goes from bare metal, surfacer to sealer depending on how it is reduced so it looks expensive at the onset but there is a huge savings in using 1 product in the end.

Just a note about cheap primers. The cost of priming double what you would with a good surfacer will make up the cost easily. As for lacquer surfacer it is 2010 and it no longer has its use in quality repairs. If you are going through the trouble of using a surfacer and blocking a car why skimp there? Makes no sense. HOK products are designed for high build. They dry quickly and hold out very well. Also they are user friendly and on the lower end cost wise.

It is usually the quality of the sand paper that causes a poor sanding performance not the primer. Just another case of guys repeating what they have been told without any fact to back it up.

Three med to heavy coats of HOK and you should be ready to seal and paint. If not you should fix the metal or plastic work first. If it is so called hard to sand switch to the correct grit paper and progressively work your way up.

I know there will be 50 replies telling you how they rolled on Krylon or tractor paint and it worked flawless.

 

Chalk that up to your "free " health care. We`ll feel your pain, Soon.

 

GO to SMARTSHOPPERS.com and get HOK KP2CF epoxy primer.Its hi build and easy sanding.Its 2parts a &b Mixed it gives u 2 gallons unreduced for 200.00.Dont cheap out on primers.It could bite u in da butt!

 

[QUOTE=gotwood;( As for lacquer surfacer it is 2010 and it no longer has its use in quality repairs.) No repairs here I'm shooting metal flake fades Watson style using lacquer clear, as a matter of fact when Larry Watson wanted some lacquer paint and primer a couple years ago I turned Him on to some, so as far as lacquer having no place in 2010 I think Larry would disagree, I know I do, but I will say using lacquer primer would depend on what I was top coating it with, the Poster did'nt say what His top coat was to be, so maybe We should ask, what are You planing to do for a top coat? Von Doc