removing stuck plugs

I've tried using the "search" feature for info on this but haven't had much luck, maybe it's a newbie thing

Anyways, here's my question, what are some good techniques that you guys have used to remove stuck or seized spark plugs, I've got a 354 Hemi coming home for my coupe project and was told that most of the plugs are stuck. I've read some great tech info on here with regards to unsticking an engine but not much with regards to removing seized plugs. I don't want to damage anything so thought I would do some research and ask a few questions first.

Cheers.

 

A good product like PB Blaster, let it work it's majic for a few hours even overnight, if not on a hemi, you will have to remove the heads. Kind of hard due to the design to get the melted wax trick in there, worth a try for a last resort. Taking the heads off is a job, but better than taking them off AND repairing the threads too. BDM

 

BDM has a handle on it.

Once you get them to move work them back and forth and go a little at a time until they get loose enougn to come out without much effort. A lot of times if someone uesed a long reach plug they will have carbon on the end of the plug. It will break off if you wiggle it back and forth as you go but if it doesn't break off it may take some threads with it.

My wife always uses coca cola mixed with a little auto trans fluid for penetrateing oil. She swears by it and it always works for her, but that's because she knows it will work. I still use a good penetrateing oil myself.

 

Trans fluid with acetone in a 50/50 mixture makes a really excellent penetrant that will break rusty parts loose.

Let the penetrant of your choice have some time to work (a day or two should do). Then, before trying to loosen anything, get a socket on the plugs solidly and give them a quick, sharp tap TIGHTER. You don't want to break the porcelain here! Then try to back them out. Fortunately, Hemi spark plugs are usually easy to get to. Good luck-

 

I love using trans fluid to get rusted , frozen parts to brake free again . But the pug is something different . PB Blaster , vinegar both work good .
The best advice is what "porkn******" said to do . Take a big 1/2 drive ratchet and try to tighten just a little , then try to un tighten it . One way or the other it will move just a little . then just keep repeating the process until it stars to turn . Remember that it will get very hot while making it come out . So as you do get 1/2 turn on it , keep shooting a good penetrating oils down on it to help keep it cool and help break the crud up ! Then when you do get them out , get a thread chaser or re threader , dip it in oil before you chase the threads to keep any loose metal stuck to the oil on the re thread tool . The with the plug hole out with a clean towel . Remember to put a small amount of anti-seize on the spark plug threads before you install the new plugs . That way you won't be doing this all over again the next time . Also don't over tighten the spark plugs !

Retro Jim

 

Porkn******, pure coke syrup is one of if not the best rust desolvers known to man. Make friends with a manager of a resturant, and he can give you some to take home. BDM

 

One trick I like, after the plug is out, is to "pack" the tap with heavy grease before chasing the thread.......that will capture all the cuttings as you remove the tap.

 

Cool tips, I'm grabbing a can of PB Blaster today and then when the engine arrives next week I'll try some of these ideas out.

Much appreciated!

 

1. try to remove in standard manner

2. ad just a little extra torque

3. break plug off, leaving threaded portion of plug still in the head.

4. spend all day Saturday trying to remove threaded portion of plug

5. spend all day Sunday trying to remove threaded portion of plug from inside the cylinder through the now screwed up spark plug hole.

6. remove head and retrieve spark plug parts from cylinder.

7. have head redone since it is off, and replace.

8. re-install new plugs with antiseize

 

BDM thanks for the info. I never thought of using the pure syrup.

Jim when I'm chasing threads in a blind hole or somewhere that I don't want the chips to end up in the bottom of the hole I smear bees wax in the flutes of the tap. The chips for the most part will end up stuck in the wax.

 

Little tip- Turn the engine till the intake valve is open on the cylinder you are working on. Install air hose in manifold and give it a little air while you run the tap. Blows the chip out while you work. Gl***es highly recommended.