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color sanding with 1200 D/A paper???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FORDOLE500, Feb 24, 2005.

  1. FORDOLE500
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 335

    FORDOLE500
    Member

    I just got done painting my wifes 54 buick and wanted to try color sanding with this 1200 D/A paper. Now I did custom paint for 10 years so I am ok with most products but I have never used this before It seems like it works reallyn good for about 30-45 seconds after that it gets gummed up with paint a doesnt work so well after that any painters thought on this product or should i just wait for a couple of days to let the paint cure up more??


    thanks

    todd
     
  2. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    I have used it before and it works better after the paint has cured for 2-3 days. It does not really do a good job on dirt spots or getting the surface flat. It is good for a production body shop.


    if you are going to use it knock the dirt spects out with a razor blade first the go over with the da.
     
  3. MikeO
    Joined: Mar 1, 2004
    Posts: 606

    MikeO
    Member
    from MI

    are you using it wet? that also helps plus if you are using hookit use the innerface pad ,it helps to keep chunks of dirt from diggin in and leaving half circle scratches all over
     
  4. I'm in the middle of rubbing a black car right now. Using merca 1200 dry, then norton 1500 wet, then 3000 wet. So far it's working very nice. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
     
  5. Barn-core
    Joined: Jan 26, 2004
    Posts: 946

    Barn-core
    Member

    It would probably be a good idea to give it a few more days to cure. At the shop I work at we use hookit, and an interface pad ( which I would suggest), 1000, 1200, 1500, then polish like you normally would. It's also a good idea to go around and get the dust nibs by hand first. The paper can clog, but if you keep an eye on them, or run the DA over a towell to clean the paper you should be able to avoid any swirls.
     
  6. lucky 7
    Joined: Jul 9, 2002
    Posts: 140

    lucky 7
    Member

    use the interface pad for sure..the paperwill last longer if you do.after the 1200 try using TRIZACT.its a 3000 grit sponge type pad that you use wet.use plenty of water.if you want the surface very flat,try blocking with 800 or so first,then come back and remove the 800 scratch with the 1200 d/a...
     
  7. olstie
    Joined: Nov 13, 2003
    Posts: 3

    olstie

    If you know anyone with a shop that gets Body Shop Business magazine, and who actually reads it instead of throwing it away!!! There is an, indepth article about it and the writer swears by it. Who knows? I haven't tried it yet on a customers car, I do enough work without having to re-do-it. Might spray a hood out of the bonepile and give it a shot one of these days.
    Article is in Feb 2005/vol24 no. 2 page 73. Hope that helps.
     
  8. rebstew187
    Joined: Jan 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,491

    rebstew187
    Member

    color sanding with a D/A? I 've never seen anyone do this. sounds scaring to me.I'll stay with my hands and a soft sanding block.let me know how it comes out sounds easier and faster as long as you don't hit a corner and run through the paint.
     
  9. desoto
    Joined: Mar 23, 2001
    Posts: 738

    desoto
    Member
    from Ayer, MA


    We do it all the time at the shop.

    Did my '34 (lacquer paint) at home last summer, too.

    Use a palm sander, preferrably one with a 3/32" orbit. The ones with the 3/16" orbit cut a bit faster but you can get into trouble that way if you're not careful.
     
  10. TRIUMPH TERROR
    Joined: Nov 14, 2004
    Posts: 1,000

    TRIUMPH TERROR
    Member

    We use 3M 800 stick it sheets on a DA sander for nibbing dust particles or scuffing base the paper is a bit spendy but does not load up as fast.We also bake all of our paint work so we can use this right away.If no bake I would give it 2 to 3 days cure time.Doin a whole car is still gonna take some sheets though.I have used alot of other brands of sanding paper over the years but I just dont think you can beat 3m.And no I dont work for 3m and have not recv any money from them to say this.LOL

    later Shoe

     
  11. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    This tech work's well with late model's that have scratched (light) and heavy orange peel. Make's the finish (factory) look much richer. Easier to wax, flatter surface. Using a palm sander like DESOTO recomended is very good. There is a 'nerf' stikit that you may use to apply glaze/wax with that palm sander too. Faster, safer (esp. for newbie's).
     
  12. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,873

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA


    yeah use the interface pad

    also use a "finishing DA" they have a tighter orbit and arent so agressive.

    and use water with a couple drops of soap.

    i use 800
    then 1200
    then 3000 grit trizzzact like lucky SEVEN-

    it works awesome.

    Tuck
     
  13. I just learned of Trizact, neat stuff, I have been playing with some samples. Microscopic "pyramids"

    Have any of you guys used the palm type sanders that you can plumb a little water line to?
     
  14. SwitchBlade327
    Joined: Dec 15, 2002
    Posts: 2,911

    SwitchBlade327
    Member

    I LOVE using the DA to colorsand! I had REALLY good luck with it, using the 1500-3000 wet. the final sanding with the 3000 makes buffing a bit easier. I learned real quick to keep a close eye on how close you get to body lines though. Ended up having to touch up a quarter from getting too close. I always use it on flat areas, and large curves. Still do all the tight places and body line areas by hand though.
    Buffing still ****s balls though.
     

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