Everybody knows that if you put Mopar parts in a Chevy motor you will lose horsepower. You will gain horsepower if you put Ford parts in your Chebbie. (That oughta stir it up!)
WHOA! Chevy copied the Chrysler firing order when they made their engines. ___1843____ 6572 Secondly the cranks are very similar BB to BB. A few years back you could buy a blank forging from Momma Mopar and it could be made into a chevy crank or a mopar. I once here in the shop was doing one of each and checked the BB against a 440 block. (4 inch stoke) It wasnt a drop in but it sure wasnt far off. A thrust flange can be ground where ever and even added easily. In fact having done a little bit of crank welding I often wondered about adding a rear thrust flange to a Mopar BB Crank for severe use with a big converter which is a bit hard on thrusts. Is it possible? Absolutley. If you havent set one in the others block you are just guessing. Been there done that at least once. Not a direct fit but not that far off. Don
Yeah, you're right... I vapor-locked on that one. I forget what the displacement was with the Stude crank. The Buick 322 rings (4.00-inch bore) were used for the first 301s though. -Brad
Ever notice how phrases and words that sound neat or technical can get misused by people that don't know what they are talking about anyhow? Ever hear of a bored and stroked or ported and relieved 301 Chevy?
Run from this guy. He's either really stupid and making up shit or he's a nut that likes to do things that "can't be done". If he's the latter, I've known a few of those, and I've done some of that kind of stuff myself, and it never works out very well for very long. I'd say be polite and say "Thanks, but no thanks." Then get back in your car and haul ass out of there.
Nothing is impossible ... I once put a Chrysler crank in a Chevy. I admit it was a bit of work but once I reorganized the trunk it fit right in. Had to get the Chryco crank to the machine shop somehow right.
Racers are always trying new things to go faster. Its hot rodding. Maybe he thought all the machine work was worth it to try and get a killer combo together and baffle everyone. I from ohio and up there at the local carshow a guy claimed he did this same thing in his car. I believe it was a nova but cant remember. Anyways, we didnt believe him. I say buy it and blow it apart just to find out if the unicorn is true!!
Well, I think I'll let it go. The reason I was interested in it was because it was listed at a 477 with BME aluminum rods, Dart Big M, and Dart Aluminum heads, all for $6,800. Carb to pan. But that seems like a low price for a complete motor with aftermarket block and heads. Probably a scam. Thanks to all.
ask him if you can drop the pan. Have you seen it? The block and heads will be obvious. Ask him who built it. You might be stumbling across a real bargain, but considering this guys rap, you want to proceed VERY carefully. I would also buy it on the basis that you are going to have to disassemble it and go through it, as the seller is clearly completely clueless. In the EXTREMELY unlikely event it IS a chrysler crank, and you are planning to run an automatic behind it, I would also think about just how you plan to mate this to a trans. Not impossible, but it does complicate matters. But if the other parts are what he says they are, which can be verified by a visual inspection and dropping the pan, its a deal. Do you have the capabilities to go through the motor yourself? If you do, I would go look at it, for sure, Just wear earplugs, cause if you think you have heard a load of bullshit so far, I'd wager you will hear a WHOLE LOT more when you meet this clown in person.Theres also the question of fatigue life of the rods. Personally, I LOVE the BME rods, and they have a better fatigue life than alot of other alum. rods, but this is still a consideration, and something you want to take into account in your pricing. I would look at buying this thing in terms of a collection of parts, rather than a running motor. Let me also clarify the whole "chrysler crank, raw forging" thing one more time. I said this in an earlier post, if its a crank that has been machined to fit a chevy/mopar from a chevy/mopar/diahatsu/whatever raw forging, its a non-issue.
I just wanted a motor with aluminum rods. I was going to buy an injection set up and put it on 75% nitro. Direct drive behind it. When I talked to him on the phone he said he was 74 years old. On the add it he says he lives in AZ, but where it says item location on the add is says CA, but the phone number was AZ. I live in Houston, and he didn't sound to competent. The add said freshened 30 runs ago, and he said only 13 runs on it. What he said didn't match up with the add, so to me it seems like bullshit.
One quick picture of the back of the motor will tell all, Chry. flange is round with a notch and everything registers around the od of the flange whereas the Chevy flange has a riser for the pilot (inside the bolt circle) to register the flywheel on. Chevy has a dowel in the flange for orintation and the Chry has an offset bolt pattern.
Not entirely correct. Only the early Chryslers, such as the early hemis registered off the OD of the rear flange. Anything later than that uses a center register. Unless it happens to be an old fuel crank......most of those do not have a center register.
The Jalopy Journal
