well i think I have the bleeding stopped....I can get the spring pulled down but cant get clip to pop out....Ive tried everything I dont need the valve ***embly so i thought about cutting them in half but damn I cant get anything in there to cut them....I dont have a tourch how to get them out any ideas
Just getting the spring down doesn't do anything, you have to reach through the spring with a guide removal tool and pull the guide down a bit, then the clip will pop right out. It's in a recess in the block as long as the guide is right up.
I'm doing the very same thing right now. One damn valve ***y. won't let go. Fortunately I have 2 things going for me. 1. I have non-Ford valves that do not have the shoulder on the bottom where the keepers rest. 2. My friend thought of this and reminded me how it would work. So, if you are lucky like me and have later valves, lift the spring up and remove the keepers and bottom spring washer that they sit in. That will allow you to pull the valve out of the guide from the top. Now, you should be able to persuade the guide out the bottom with a br*** drift or loosen it to push it out the top. I actually think that there is a very slight taper to those bores, so you may not want to push it out the bottom, just tap on it to loosen it up. Hope mine works like this.
Like 36tbird, I'd remove the keepers and hit the guide down from the top. Only I leave the spring and lifter in place. When the guide goes down and hits the spring, it'll pop back up through the bore. Couple times up and down (with penetrating oil) will dissolve the carbon enough to pull it out.
Getting the valves out isnt a job for sissies. Soak them up with penetrating oil as best as you can. There is a special tool available to puch the guide down from the top, someone may be able to help with the supplier. Its just a fancy shaped punch really, a slight offset bend in in the middle and a "C" shaped lower to go around valve stem and sit on the top of the guide. Get the valve all the way up and slide the punch in. Sometimes even with the correct pickle fork valve tool on the bottom of the guide the recess in the guide will snap off as you try and lever the valve down to get the horse shoe out, this is when things get more agressive . Cutting the top off the valve is way easier to get access to the guide.
lots of kroil oil,keep messin with em.Ive done a couple of em.I managed to turn some enough so i could tap it around with a long skinny rod.Also had a hell of a time putting in the valve guide seal,just a heads up
welcome to my world...bwahaha...use one of those big c-clamp lookin valve spring compressors to hold the spring compressed remove the retainer from the stem..remove spring compressor lift valve up and bend it over...renmove the spring then use a punch next to the valve stem and drive the guide down into lifter chamber...worst case use plasma cutter torch head off valve, bend stem and spring over with a bar and bfh then drive ***y down and out...good luck
Ok here after 4 hours messing with it I have a system down as shown(its a 51 flatty) I use the "pickle fork" to get the valve out, Now I cant get the keeper out cause I dont have the right tool. I start out but taking a pry bar and popping the spring past the lift and pull out the "hat" I take a big hammer and a 1/2 inch impact socket and center the socket over the valve hole and give it a good wack. then I grab the valve keeper and pull it out After the keeper is out I go back to hitting the valve guide out and I take my pry bar and pop the spring out a little more allowing the valve ***embly to drop as I hit it...it will bind alittle but use the pry bar to keep the spring moving outword now here is the risky part....as you hit the ***embly out of the block keep your head away from the valve valley because as you hit it it will cause the spring to "spring out" and there you have it
i think you can put a big screwdriver under the valve and pop the valve up enough to get a pickle fork under the valve and pull it up more. then if youre getting new valves just bend or break it out of the way and tap the guide down with a punch and hammer. till the clip is loose, then grab it with a mechanics hook and yank.
yea the gloves are hideing the band-aids..... Im shoping for some flathead tools cause I have 3 other flatties that need to be tore down
the later ones like yours with the split keepers are easy next to the earlier mushroom stem valves ive found the exhaust valves (ones with smooth tops)are very brittle you can snap them right off...
In the last two weeks I have removed two sets of guides, springs and valves this way. And have one more shot at a usable motor. Found cracks all in the first block
The only thing I did different, was once you get the valve out, I maneuver the bottom of the spring to one side and then put one jaw of a set of channel locks up in the center of the spring then clamp down on the spring and then use a large screw driver to pry down the spring from the top off of the guide,as I maneuver (pull out the spring) it out with the channel locks. That way you can control where the spring goes. Once the spring is out, then as you did, use a drift to push the guide down in to the block. The keeper comes with the guide and if you want you can take it off on the bench. I will tell you that once they are all out and the block is cleaned, they go back in and out very easily. I did recently buy the correct valve tool/bar on e-bay that was made by Snap-On...it is longer that the factory tool and gives you more leverage. I was only able to save 6 complete valves. I cleaned them up and have used them to practice ***embly and dissemble along with installation and removal.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Ive found 3 flatties for under $300 in the past month so i wasnt taking any chances and bought them all.....MY 29 COUPE WILL MOVE UNDER FLATHEAD POWER
yea if your going to re-use the valve ***embly this isnt for you....after the spring bounces out its all bent up so its junk
No I am putting in all new valve ***emblies.....just cleaned them up and kept them for practice. My biggest issue was getting the valve out...carbon on the valve stem...used a pickle fork to get them part of the way out then a cutoff wheel just below the head. Some I had to drill the center of the head out then broke off the head.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I am doing a rust removal project for the water jackets...it is on the Ford Barn under: Rust removal in the water jackets
how about removing the mushroom type? i got them all out but a few looks like im cutting them . billy
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