Can anyone give me some input on this I am going to make my cuts on the indents on my 30 A firewall. Will this give me enough space for SBC ?
i didnt use an original my 327 sat back waaaay to far... i cut the shit out of my original and couldnt get anything to look right with it so i made my own sorry it didnt help with the origional firewall part but heres some pics
If I was going to do it again. I'd move my Radieater forward and not run a hood. No matter what you do when recessing the firewall getting to the Dist for service is a pain in the A--. That is if your running a G.M. motor. The Wizzard
Heres how Rolf did his. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32585&highlight=firewall He made really nice rounded edges for the recess. It looks even sweeter in person than it does in pictures.
friends 30 A, flat sheet metal with the 2 upper corners from the stock firewall as the recess (still using the stock cowl tank).
Have you considered breaking your firewall loose, turning it around 180 degrees, and bolting/welding it back in? This will get you about three inches and is a pretty old timey, crafty trick. You'll need to fill a couple holes and cut a couple more....but if you're talking about recessing it, you're capable of those tasks.
Fitting will depend on the motor location, are you using the Model A frame or 32 rails. it makes a difference. You can drill out the firewall and reverse as mentioned about (and cut the lower section off) or do a flat plate which gives more room as the factory one pushes out. I had to sink the firewall on my 29 back 3.5 inches. I suggest getting mounting the motor in the frame (body off or firewall out) and make the firewall fit from there..
my 30 a with a small block short water pump can use a stock hood with a flat fire wall. i did put a recess in it for added room around the magneto that is going in later. the fire wall is even with the back of the block.
Don't recess you fire wall . Just flip your firewall backward it should give pleanty of room for you engine. Plus it looks cleaner. It is a lot more work to drill out all the spot welds but it looks more original when you done. You can only do this on 30 and 31s. I dont have any pictures right know but I might be able to get some. Scott
If you try this you'll half to change the tapper on the edge. Also the ribbs go in now instead of out. Then the steering column hole is now on the wrong side as well as the toe board flange is pointing the wrong way. Yes it can be done but. The Wizzard
well if your car is chanled the stearing column hole and the toe board flanges are not a problem. Cances are you column wont end up in the exact stock location any how. As for the taper on the edge thats nothing a hammer and dolly can't fix.