Register now to get rid of these ads!

Body Mounts for AD Pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bluegoose972, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. bluegoose972
    Joined: Dec 12, 2007
    Posts: 8

    bluegoose972
    Member

    Need a little guidance....

    I have a 1947 Chevy Pickup with the PO mounted on a 70' model Cutlass frame. Overall, everything looks pretty good, but I have a couple of problems:

    1) It squeaks like crazy...Pulled the plywood flooring in the bed and started looking at things and it appears that the body is bolted directly to the steel frame mounts with nothing isolating the body from the frame. This most likely is causing the squeaking issue.

    2) In addition, I need to raise the cab/bed about 0.5" to fix another problem. When the mounted the body, the radiator mount was slightly higher than the cab mount. When they torqued it all down, the mounting point at the cab and front fenders collasped inward. Didn't know why there was these funny dents on both sides of the cab...now I know!

    3) The hood does not fit right due to problem #2. Since the radiator mounting point is raised, the distance from the front of the hood to the cowl is shorter than it should be....by about 3/8".

    So, with all that being said, I need some ideas on body shims. I'm thinking 1/2" hard rubber/wood mounts all around with a smaller shim under the radiator mount to bring everything in alignment. But not sure what type of material works before this type of mount?

    Your thoughts...And thanks in advance.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. A lot of guys use hockey pucks. Shape them to what you need, cheap if you screw em up.
     
  3. ...instead of raising the cab/box, why not just trim some off the bottom of the core support, a little more than you need, then you can use a rubber shim there also to eliminate sqeaking and give you some extra leeway in fitment.
    ...those core supports can be trim'd maybe an inch or two...
     
  4. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016

    Gator
    Member

    I usually use 1/4 thick rubber cut from sheets, usually about 1" by 2" with a hole drilled in the middle. you can stack them where you need a little more clearance.
     
  5. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,258

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    tire sidewalls work well for isolators as well....hole saw em out, puch a bolt hole in the center and knock the edges down with a flap disk for cleanliness...
     
  6. Joepup
    Joined: Nov 21, 2010
    Posts: 29

    Joepup
    Member
    from Mid-Mo

    Like Salty said old tire sidewalls work, something else you might consider, When I worked in the tire business the large 20" plus truck tires used a heavy rubber liner between the rim and tube, we threw a lot of the out when we put new tires on. Old truck bed liners would work also.Most cab mount are thick rubber biscuits. If you look at my album I have some photos of how we made my cab mounts for a 49 on and s10 frame.
     
  7. cowboy1
    Joined: Feb 14, 2008
    Posts: 914

    cowboy1
    Member
    from Austin TX

    I picked up these motor mount bushing. I got the p/n off of someone here on the H.A.M.B. . The Napa # is 602-1045. They run about $2.00 each
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2010
  8. old inner tubes work great and are cheap! in the past reusing old body mounts from the pull-a-part have worked great also.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.