okay folks, im getting ready to tackle my brake and im unclear with the info i have gathered. 29 ford A coupe, so far ive got 48 juice in the front(from my understanding) and im running the early 60's stang rear end with stock brakes. so im running all drum. i have the speedway master cylinder and pedal kit mounted and everything. it has the two ports. ive got some lines and thats were im stopped. whats this residual valve and proportioning valve stuff? any help on what i need to get together guys?
if you dont use proportioning valve your brakes will be stiff and need a strong foot, just to slow down.residual valves keeps bake shoes snug on drum 10psi for drum brake
okay so tell me what i need to get and how many haha. i run a residual in the front and back and then a proportioning in the rear??
just need a little more info because I am not familiar with the spedway master. is it a dual reservoir master? or a single with two ports? more than likely it is not a drum brake specific master (no residual valve built in). What you will need is two 10 pound residual valves. One in each line, front and rear. the proportioning valve is personal preference, and has no effect on the "stiffness of the brakes. the proportioning valve will reduce the flow to the rear brakes, It is only really needed if you need to balance the activation of the front/rear brakes.
from master both ports go to proportioning valve (speedway adjustabul valve) is cool but whatever you can find. from proportioning valve you run residual 10pound on front and back then you split it to each wheel.
yup its a dual reservoir. with two ports. iv seen the proportioning valve with a brake switch mounted in it,im a little interested in getting it to kill 2 birds with one stone. so i need the residual valves?
i would say use proportioning valve with a brake switch mounted in it, the only thing if it go's out you may have to bleed the brakes after you replace,but i dont think it that bad.i'v always used residual valves has always help me out
thats fine, i dont care about the bleeding and what not. im just trying to find out what i need and were goes what haha. im making orders for parts and im getting everything together. (just sold a car so iv got to get the parts before its spend on something else)
Yes, you need 2 10 residule valves, one in the front line, one for the back, both mounted before the T fitting splitting the sides. They are directional so make sure you get them in the right way, they will be marked. Like GreggAz said, you don't nessasarily need a proportion valve and it has nothing to do with how much foot pressure you need. I'd wait and see how it stops first, if your front brakes lock up way before the rears, then you need it and it goes in the rear line. 30 years of building hot rods and I only needed to do that once and that was on a g***er, little front tires, hugh rears. Just get an inline brake switch with the T fitting that goes with it and put it inline somewhere, it's simple enough
Here is my two cents. In the rear you need a 10 lb rpv coming right off the m/c. In the front you need a metering valve that splits the two lines and two 10 lb rpvs, one in each line. The metering valve causes a delay to the front which will help avoid nose diving. I dont think you need a proportioning valve for drum/drum application. Put the light switch wherever Let me know how it goes. I'm working on a brake set up myself.
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