Just wondered if the Schroeder steering box was worth the $$ that they go for. I like the 16-1 ratio idea, but they want $1300 for one and then another $125 for a pitman arm. They are a nice box but seem rather pricey. I will buy one if that's what it takes but it will hurt. I really like the idea of cowl steering for my T RPU but ouch. I have heard the Mopar aluminum boxes work well but not sure on specific years to use and wonder if they are as small or easy to install-adapt as the Schroeder would be. Another thing I am a little unsure of is how to measure for a box like the Schroeder without actually having anything physical to use in mock-up.
I visited the Schroeder shop, and a couple years later they did a custom job for a shop I worked for. They know what they are doing, they use premium materials, and quality and accuracy are high.
Here is a link to a tech on using the mopar box. I think the box is out of what mopar people refer to as an "a body" but i cant really remember i have two good ones and know of a few more. So if you decide to go that route and cant find one i can prob help you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297314&highlight=mopar+steering+box Cmichael
Schroeder boxes are well worth what they ask for them. Too rich for my blood but they are not overpriced in my book. If you want to go cheap and easy an aluminum box out of a 71 Volvo works well and is easy to adapt.
Isn't this kind of like asking whether or not a Halibrand quickchange is worth it? It's all part of "the look" and if you want "the look", in which case you gotta pay to play. Is there a better behaving setup that'd work in a cowl-steering application? Yeah. But does it have "the look"? Nope.
I did it once because that was the look I was after. I probably wouldn't do it again as it took a lot of work to get it strong in a deuce roadster. I also did mine before the 16-1 reducer was available and at low speeds it steered a little hard.
That all depends on the car, tires, and especially the pitman arm or steering arm. The longer the arms, the harder it is to turn the steering wheel. But the faster it moves. The 6:1 or 8:1 steering box is about $700. But the optional 16:1 reducer is an extra $1300. I may be actually getting a steering ***embly soon for my track roadster T, less the reducer. My car will be really light and my tires skinny.
Actually the box with reducer is $1300, not an extra $1300 for the reducer. My T roadster pickup will be light too with small tires but I still think the 16-1 box would be better.
Remember that you can play around with pitman arm length and steering arm length to vary/improve the driveability.
Car in my avitar has a schroeder.I needed to flip it to fit my setup.Needed right hand gears.Called Schroeder and talked to if I remember right Gary Schroeder?.Anyway these boxes are GREAT,reversable.They have parts for anything they ever made.I paid $350 for mine on evilbay and had about $200 in a set of gears.Look around,get one .Parts can be had.They are solid ,perform well,worth every penny.Sometimes you can get something for a bargain like anything else. You can use a BMW 1200 for that also.
It'll drive nicer with the Duster box,and you can find nice examples at swap meets for around $100-$120. They are about the same amount of work to install as the Schroeder.
Oh yeah, I've been reading it wrong the whole time. But I still think I won't need it. Here is a car from the last Throttler's Picnic that has one, no reducer, and with a short pitman. I never spoke with the owner, so I'm not sure how easy it is to steer.
I am running one in my Deuce build. I have no reducer and my understanding is, as long as your geometry is correct...they work well. I have driven several cars with these boxes and they drove steered great at normal conditions..20-100 mph In very slow speeds..they are tight. That is my exp.
Put one in the T. I love it. Bought a new 8to1 ratio built to my specs, 650 bucks. Using an old Schroeder 16inch steering wheel. Mount them as low as possible so you can shorten the steering arm. Steers great hi or low speeds. The T only weighs 1400 pounds though.
Sure is.That's the first thing my eyes went to.Beautiful car,but it's got to be a handful on bumpy roads.The bumpsteer problem is something that needs a lot of attention on any cowl steer car,regardless of what box you choose.It's difficult to get the steering box end of the drag link low enough without having an extremely long pitman arm. A lot of people are under the misconception that the drag link should be parallel to the wishbone and build them with a lot of bumpsteer without knowing it.
The Jalopy Journal
