I recently got a 54 ford crest line, it has a new tie rod end, but the steering has a ton of slop. It has about half a wheel of play. Just thought I'd check the ham guys infinite knowledge to see if there is a way to tighten the box up, or if I need to s**** it and get another. Which brings me to my next point, where in the world can I get a rebuilt one?
My '52 and my '53 both have the same problem. I was thinking that the boxes were just getting worn out, and it is a possibility, but I'm starting to wonder if it's not the drag link, maybe the springs in the drag link are collapsed and that's where the slop is coming from? I've heard that these boxes have some adjustability, not sure how it's done though. My '52 parts car has a super tight box but it's such a pain in the *** to swap out with the center shaft being built into the box, I'm hoping there is an easier fix.
Sector shaft and worm gear probably worn in box. Macs and Concours sells parts. 250-300 to rebuild. Borgeson has a bolt in (to frame) but will have to shorten column. And standard shift may have to be moved to floor from column.
Jack the front of the car up, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth so you can actually see where the play is .Alot of times with the car jacked up you can just manually turn the tire and wheel back and forth to find the worn parts.
Sounds like your box may be toast but........ Follow brad chevy's instructions to determine actual slop location. Most boxes have a jam nut with a slotted screw in the center for adjustment. Knowing if the box is centered in it's throw when the wheels are pointed straight, is important to adjustment. All boxes are supposed to be the tightest at true center. If you're off center and adjust to remove slopiness, it will be tighter in one direction, when it hits the true center. For adjustment, jack the wheels off the ground, turn the steering wheel about 1/4 turn past center. Tighten adjustment (slotted screw) until just barely, I mean barely, starting to snug. Then, tighten jam nut while holding screw steady. Properly adjusted, you'll feel a very slight drag at true center as you turn past center. If it feels 'too stiff' or 'grindy' or 'chunky' as p***ing center, back the adjustment off slightly and test again. <!-- / message -->
I have the same problem with my 55. Definitely know that my bushing's are WASTED! Most time people think it's the steering box (which IT COULD BE) BUT sometimes it could just be the bushings & the tie rod ends.
On the steering box is a nut with a big threaded screw through it. This is to adjust the wear out of the worm gear. Jack the front of the car up. Loosen the nut and gently turn the screw inwards until you feel resistance. Work the steering wheel back and forth and you should feel a slight resistance when the wheel is straight. This is OK If the resistance in the center is alot back the screw out a bit then tighten the nut and you should be good.
To really adjust the steering box the right way, you have to drop the drag link (centerlink) off the pitman arm. I've done more than a few and this allows you to isolate the box and "feel" anything crunchy going on with the innards. I doubt that an adjustment will get rid of all your play, but it should take some of it out so you can drive it safely. If you need instructions, PM me and I'll see what I can dig up specific to your car. Bob
Fords of that vintage were notorious for steering play. They sold a bearing kit for the idler arm, which most times fixed it.
Vern Tardel has a book available; "Ford Steering, Service, Repair, & Modification". It has step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild and adjust a Ford steering box.
You will have to tell us where the play is. Anything short of that is just guessing. You can throw parts at it and hope you hit the problem but that can be expensive. Sloppy steering is easy to diagnose because you can actually see the movement with the human eye. No codes to read...just find the worn part and replace it or sometimes adjust it. Put it on jack stands under the control arms so that the parts are at ride height and the tires just clear the floor an inch or two. Have a friend grab a front tire at 3 and 9 o'clock, push and pull. If there is slop in the linkage you can see it and feel it. If the idle arm moves up or down before the other tire starts to move, get an idler arm bushing and replace it. A common problem. The idler arm should only move left and right never up and down. I grab each tie rod end with my hand while the wheel is pushed and pulled. If there is movement you can usually feel it. The stud moves but not the socket that it sits in.There should be no movement. A little in this tie rod and a little in the others and pretty soon you have a sloppy system. Have a friend rock the steering wheel in the slop. Is the pitman arm moving? If not then the slop is in the box. Then and only then should the box be adjusted. Get a manual and read up on the process before you start adjusting. Take a 2 foot screwdriver or a pry bar and put it under the wheel from the side. Then try to lift the tire. If you can move the tire up and down easily, find out where the slop is coming from. If the tire moves but not the spindle then you have loose or worm wheel bearings. If the whole tire and spindle moves then you have some worn king pin bushings or ball joints. It should be easy to see. You'll need a buddy to operate the pry bar while you look for the play. It really easy to do. You'll need a friend and about 5 minutes. Anything short of these tests is just a simple wild *** guess. Diagnose and correct the problem properly. JMHO
thanks for the advice guys, its going up on jack stands tonight. That seems like the general concensus on where to start.
I was driving '50s cars in the '60s and they had a ton of clop back then. There should be a little screw with a jam u nut on the top side of your steering box. You may be able to tighten it up a little with that unless its already been done a ton since the '60s. You can probably find a rebuilt box if you just search on line or perhaps someone has an upgraded box you can use. Or you could bite the bullet and learn how to do it yourself. I know its majic, actually not its just a box with worn stuff inside of it that you can replace just like the other fella that you are going to find to rebuild it.
always work from the wheel in. eliminate the easy variables until you reach the expensive and difficult to remove/rebuild/replace stuff. anyway, you have to remember, American cars from the '50's aren't great corner-carvers....
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