I'm starting to get ready to gather up parts for my 32 ch***is build and could use a little advice..well, lots of advice actually... I want to go with a late 50's-60's look so that rules out most of the modern steering, braking and suspension set-ups that are "in" today. I've done some searching here for answers but I actually ended up with more questions! Here is all I have figured out so far.... I'd love to have an original frame but it really doesn't make sense to pay that kind of money only to "cut it up" so I'll probably go with new rails from American Stamping. From what I gather a model A front cross member is pretty standard to use and some guys use a 35-40 X member. I'd like to use this style of X member because I think it looks way better that a fabricated tube one. I'm not quite sure what to use for a rear crossmember and spring set-up though... I like the original style transverse spring set-ups but I don't really want it to protrude up into the trunk area so I'm not sure what to go with here. I guess the ride height will have to be considered too with this choice so any advice here is appreciated. Once I get this part of the build figured out I'll start looking at the front suspension and steering options. Thanks guys. <!-- / message -->
I used the ch***is engineering X member, model A front crossmember, and 40 rear crossmember (flattened). Highly suggest finding someone that can lend you a ch***is jig if your building your own frame. Or just save and buy one built from a fixture, lot to invest in a car and have the frame not square,flat, etc... Like footing/foundations to a home, you want a solid base to build on.
Do a search on the ch***is B*** built for his '29 Coupe, one of the nicest I've seen here on the HAMB.
I uses ASC 34 rails with a 35-40 x member and dropped 32 front crossmember for my 34 pu. I'm using a parralllel leaf set-up on the rear made from tractor suppy brackets at old 31 chevy front end leaf springs. I'm happy with stance and ride height.
the37kid, I think I found it... is this the thread you refer to? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263380&highlight=b***+29+coupe It looks like it will help me out alot so thanks. bigdeuce, I've heard of using the 40 rear crossmember so I'm wondering if there is something special about the 40 or will other years work? falconsprint63, I had thought about parrallel leafs but I'm not sure how that would look without fenders so I figured transverse would be best. Do you have any pics of your set-up?
Wow! That's a B*** ch***is I'd never seen before, the one with the HEMI is the one I was thinking about originally.Here is the one with the HEMI.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104314&highlight=b***+hemi+ch***is
B***' '32 frame is a true work of art, but if you don't want to spend a bunch of time gathering up the parts and fabricating your own frame from scratch. I've always thought the complete '32 frames offered by Pete & Jake's and So-Cal Speed Shop were an excellent way to go. Plus I looked at the So-Cal website and there's a So-Cal Speed Shop in Calgary, AB.
That B*** ch***is build with the Hemi is sweeeet! I heard of a So-Cal shop up in Edmonton but not down here so I'll check it out. At any rate I'd rather build my frame than buy it...it's just how I like to do things. So I gotta ask, what's wrong with using the stock 32 rear spring and rear cross member? Or....what's the advantage of using the later 40-ish style over the stock 32?
Nothing that I know of, except '32 - '34 rear springs are curved, here's a picture I stole from Chris showing how much they are curved, also the rear cross members are unique and only work this style rear spring. The biggest draw back that I know of is nobody reproduces this style rear springs or cross member. So you're stuck searching swap meets and cl***ifieds looking for a original ones. Where as later '35 - 40 style rear springs and cross members are straight, and you can order a new rear springs and cross members from a variety of companies (photo from Pete & Jakes website)
I would take a look at the boxed rails from JW Garage they aren't that expensive and are a good starting point for building your ch***is.
If you use the original Deuce spring, you will have to fabricate the shackle perches on the rear end that you use. They used to make kits for the 35 up springs but not the curved Deuce spring. The shackle is not parallel with the driveshaft when you use a curved Deuce spring. My original Deuce roadster had a 35 up rear crossmember bolted into the frame many many years ago. I welded it up once I discovered it. Any 35 up rear end and spring will work after the torque tube is shortened. One of the old time solutions was to grind the side of the 35 up spring pack until it would fit in the curved Deuce spring pocket. You'll have to hold the spring up to see where it needs to be relieved for it to fit.
Here is a link that shows parrallel leafs on a highboy. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110979&highlight=jim+busby+coupe
havent digitized photos from it's orginal build yet, but here's the in progress from this go around. not much help without the bed for refernce, but it's what I've got. FYI, I'll probably remove leaf or two this go around. last time it rode a bit stiff, but cornered like a race car--with age I think I want to soften it up a touch .
Thanks guys that helps me understand a lot more about the rear spring set-ups. Those parrallel leafs on that high boy looks sweet too, something to consider...
Guess someone should ask if American Stanping rails are the ones to use or are there others? If so,what are the pro and con reasons to pick one over the other.
I used a 35 - 40 front spring (2 inches wide) with a stock 32 rear cross member,by using the 35-48 spacing from rear centerline to spring centerline.. With this 2 inch spring you need no modification to either spring or crossmember
I also used the 35-40 front spring in the 40 rear crossmember,(flattened) just to get lower ride height. Used the buggy spring brackets from socal, and set them 42.5" apart. Wheelbase is right on 106. Rear crossmember is right up against the fuel tank, so moving it back 1/2 to 3/4 like most do, would take lots of work. Or, just use a tubular rear crossmember, and set it where you need it. I like the look of the original style, and think its stiffer.
Larry, the spacing from center line of rear housing to center of rear spring shackle is shorter on 32-34 than that of 35-40..because of 32-34 bent spring..so with a 35-40 front or rear spring you need to use the 35-40 spacing...this will center rear wheels in center of the wheel well...
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