I have a 49 ford tudor and i am thinking of lowering it with 4" blocks in the rear and aerostar springs in the front. looking for pictures of shoeboxes with this set up to make sure it is the look i am going for. thanks in advance James
Buy a set of drop uprights,thats one way to do it. Fatman fabrications have them for sale and Jamco too..
thats about what i did on my 50, but did mill the blocks to get the pinon angle right, front springs will drop it about 2-2 1/2 inches.Its a real ***** to get rear tires off!
Heres mine with the Aerostar coils and 3 in blocks. I think 4 inch is getting risky, but im a *****. Im also on 14" wheels
I'm pretty sure you can flip the spindles from one side to the other on that car and get an inch lower. You can also lower the spring pocket by installing spacers. On my chevy I notched the A-arms and removed a coil. 4 inch blocks in the rear could put you close to the frame. Make sure you shave down your bump stops some to compensate.
Careful with 4 inches in the back. Mine was rubbing with 3 inch blocks and it gets hairy going over train tracks.
My old '50. 4 Inch blocks in the back, 2 1/2 inch blocks in the front. Looked mean as hell, but the rear end hit the trunk with the slightest of bumps. Section a spot for the rear end to "hit" and you're good to go! The front end could have easily been lowered a couple more inches.
That is true, you can do that, and it will get you WAY more than and inch. More like 4 inches. HOWEVER, there is alot of heating involved to get the alignment right. The stock spindles have a natural curve in them. When you flip flop the sides, the curve is going the wrong way. I did some mock up on my own car, just for ****s and grins when I put my drop spindles in my own car. I had heard that rumor too, and wanted to check it out. It can be done, but I would shy against it. On another note. I used fatman dropped uprights and the aerostar coils. The car sits pretty level with a 4 inch block in the rear and de-arched springs.(tucks a G-78 bias to about the top of the wheel.) Still plenty of spring travel. On a hard turn, expect G78 bias plys to rub the inner fenders a little.
Thanks Tinman, my Shoebox is clipped so I'm unfamiliar with the stock setup. Learn something every day.
I see that many of you have lowering blocks(including me),just curious: Has anyone anything to say about the Posie's superslide rearsprings for 49-56' Ford? I noticed that they have them for sale in their website.They sell them as stock height and as 3" lowering versions. Yeah,i know that they are more expensive than the lowering blocks,just wondering are worth of it?
My '51 project, before I took it apart for eng swap/air bag upgrade in front. in pic has S10 bagged front clip & 4" blocks rear. seems to have plenty of clearance with 4" rear blocks
Thats what I did with my Shoe.. (check pic below) Of course this was at least 5 years ago and at the time I didn't know about the Aerostar coils.. But besides cutting/heating coils this is a more traditional way of doing it.. The ride quality hasn't changed, but suspension geometry still is affected by using these blocks, as you could see I have some slight negative camber, you still have to shave the bump stops as well. Whats weird is that a 1-1/2" block gave me a 3" drop Maybe some could chime in and explain why?... I used the Jamco drop springs back in 2003 with another '50 shoe I had and it rode OK.. Wasn't worth the money IMO.. Especially when you could still find Aerostars at wrecking yards.. All that said if I were to do it all over I would get drop spindles.. thats the best way to lower any car IMO..
This has a mono spring that has been flipped. Also air bags to raise and lower it to get in driveways. The frame is notched.
I have those blocks too at the front.I think i could have problems because of them with the local vehicle inspectors,so i bought a set of drop spindles via hamb..