Lets talk front engine dragsters, build

I'm a former circle track dirt modified racer. Im also a hot rod motorcycle guy. I have alot of leftover racining equipment several quickchanges vintage knock off hubs to ford , ford econoline and IH spindles a dyno time only 525hp small block chevy just picked up several powerglides vintage ford and tube axles.various disk brake parts airheart calipers. Im very interested in building a vintage style FED to have some fun with . Not looking to be super fast just consistant fast and fun. I really like the style of a short wheelbase dragster 120" or less everytime i say this people go crazy with the unsafe thing really like the chassis research, dragmaster early 60's shute pack short cars. I would enjoy racing the car 5-6 times a year. went to beaver springs and had a great time i know the car i wont wont pass nhra rules but for what i want to do is that abig deal in the north east being from ny . What would you guys recomend i have a clean slate and a pile of parts. Not being a drag race guy i could use some advice.

 

Looked at some old posts how bad ass is that new chassis research car by tardell.

 

Do yourself a favor Have it built to pass IHRA or NHRA rules for your safety and the other racers Too. I have seen some bad wrecks this year you will not be sorry if you build a safe car.

 

I think the Tardel chassis is perfect. Save the quickchange for the hot rod push car! Be sure to post a build thread when you start because myself and many others would love to build something exactly like you are talking about.

 

These should get ya started....


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452462
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230419
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448504
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164920
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40089
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430316

 

before you go far down this road there are a few questions you need to ponder. What do you expect from this contraption? What motor? Do you want to shift? Do you want authenticity. How big are you?
I'd contact the Southern Slingshots, they were likely at that event and one of the members here, 48fordnut, recently sold his fed and is a wealth of info. Give him a pm (Jim) and he'll talk your ear off, his fed was one of the more authentic and he can give you a ton of advice.

 

What i expect is to have some exciting fun.my engine is a 358ci chevy small block will run it on gas. would prefer not to shift. i would like the car to be authentic looking. Im a 5'8" 240# guy so chassis size is an issue. Thanks i will try to get a hold of 48ford nut. Like i said before i was a competative modified racer for 25 years. That sport is completley out of hand the sat night racer is racing is soon to be extinct, there is no young interest any more im 45 i have a group of younger friends who are retro guy and are very into this vintage fed thing. I love the style and look of the cars who doesn't in the car culture world. running the car a few times a year would be all im willing to do not 6 days a week with the modified. i plan on building a flawless class act car with classic style. not sure about nhra ihra rules i guess that is the next step.

 

any non NHRA, IHRA fed drag racers i could talk to anyone in the north east.

 

if it doesn't pass tech which is the NHRA spec book ,then you won't be allowed to run it. be smart make it safe...i'm an old front motored guy and know of what i speak.

 

Thanks joee. certainly not looking to get myself hurt

 

There is a guy in Mass. who builds vintage dragsters .If you look through some of the dragster thread's you will find it . also I think New England Dragway was running a series for those cars . No matter what you do build it safe .

 

Your assumption it wont pass tech i do not understand. The rules are straight forward with drawings.
Do you mean it wont be made of .053 CM with titainum nuts and washers ? Well so what? The rules are well laid out and easily understood. Minimum wheelbase is below or less than you plan and to all who say a short car wont go straight here is a big Rasberry BBSBBSBSBBSBBBBSSBB!
Mine goes so straight it is unbelieveable and it isnt 120 inches. It is 96. You have to understand that everyone who says it wont go straight has never had one. Altereds are only that long and even funny cars are similar wheelbase. How does when it becomes a rail change that? Well it doesnt. I have another under construction right now. A 120. A 120 simply looks better. I would suggest get a rule book and put it in you welder. I keep both an NHRA and a IHRA there for reference. It doesnt cost a dime more to build it by the book . So why not?
Don

 

Thanks Don i have followed your threads on many topics and respect your talent and opinion. You remind me of my father a guy who built everything himself. He was a very succesful dirt mod racer in the 60's and 70's, when they restricted the rules and started with cookie cutter cars , that cost 50g he walked away. Looking for a fast fun safe lowtech dragster. What construction ,Tubing is your current car. what do you think it will cert at. What i meant by wont pass tech is if i purchased a chassis reasearch type car or a older style king chassis. I really like teir style.

 

I wanted the same thing a year ago so I looked into it and ended going with something a little more "Legal" still looks cool (in my eyes) and is a blast to run, haven't been turned away by tech yet. Here's a short video of the entire build, I started in Dec. '09 and finished in time for the Eagle Field event in May of this year.

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Thanks for the vid it was a awsome build.

 

Ricci if I might offer this.
Not trying to be an ass here so dont take it this way please.
Thats too bad about your roundy deal. But in respect to your questions....
You can still have the look to a point but it is in your best interest to build a car to what ever your going to run. I dont believe there are any outlaw tracks left in these parts and the question is why would you build a car to run one?
If you look at all the threads on this site there are plenty of pics of cars to give you some visual info. And good reading.
Some quick recommendations:

• What track are you going to run? IHRA , NHRA. get that rule book and read away. For example if you dont want to go through chassis cert then you can go down to 9.00 on IHRA and 9.99 on nhra.
• Your a Bigger guy so pretty much plan that you need to build a car. You may find one but there tight. Sounds like with your skills and experience you would build one anyway. Refitting one can be more work then just building one. If you can ,sit in one and experience it. Cars vary to as to where the rear is ,tranny type. Engine out, View forward depending on induction., seat. etc.. You will want to know the rules as such a car might not fit you legally.
• Think of your combo , are you driving it back, do you need a tow vehicle. Crew. These all play on your combo and what you will need. For example does the car have room - design to have a battery or Radiator on board
• Get with someone with a fed. Help them and see what they offer. You can save a lot of frustration and money. Have you been to any Drags? Mucho different the left turn only.

Your on the right course. Get your sanctions rule book and welcome to Drag Racing. You will LOVE driving a fed.
Good luck and write if we can be of any help.
Luke
Merry Christmas.

 

PS.. Love your Bike.

 

This close to home for you.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430316&highlight=hi+lo

Blind Elwood

 

I build mine with mild steel. Wont certify under 7.50 but doesn.t need to be tagged at the speeds i run but it must pass tech. My goal for the six cyl car is 10.90s. The new car maybe a second faster if i am fortunate. Part of the trouble we have as old racers is keeping from going nuts against the younger $$$$ guys. You establish a realistic goal. A goal which you can have fun at and a goal which keeps it a hobby and not an obsession. So you have a 530 HP engine i think you said. If you build a car by the book at 120 inches you will have an old school car that is safe and legal. No it will not certifiy for top fuel. But that is not what you are running so es machts nichts (It makes nothing)Why do i use mild steel? Because i am very good at welding it and I have no idea about welding Cm and am just learning tig. I discovered long ago in my racing career do what you do and do it well. That has always worked for me. Strength wise there is no difference. Weight wise since you must use 1/8 wall or actuially .118 minimum maybe 30 35 pounds on the car. Mine weighs 1404 . I weigh now just under 300 so if i was concerned about the weight i could stop eating for a week or so. It is all relative. I believe you like the sled style roll bars and i think that is where the certification trouble comes from. I like that style too but didnt want the hassle . I would listen to McTim too. He has done what he did successfully and although his approach may be different than mine I always have time to listen to someone who has done it. Anyway that is how i did mine and why. I can tell you I did have a close call once two years ago and I KNEW in my heart if it went over I would be OK. (I braked too hard in bad traction and was up on one wheel. )At that exact moment i was glad i had built it by the book. My short rail is 1 5/8th .125wall mild steel. It is very strong. Do I ever wish i had built it out of something different? No. i can honestly say that. It suits ME just fine. Now you may be used to welding cm and if that is so then use it. The rule book gives actual diagrams of the roll cage and drivers compartment construction. There is nothing ambiguous about it.
Don

 

Thanks!
BTW I love the bike in your avitar! I have a '56 TRW myself.

 

Started to get a build pile going today and uncovered some interesting stuff. I purchased my parents house and fathers shop when he passed away 2 years ago and there is a lifetime worth of collecting cool parts stashed i varios places. found a weiand tunnel ram single four intake with matching valve covers. several bolaws alky & gas carbs 32 ford drilled beam axle. early sixpin front knockoff hubs on ford spindles. a 3gal eelco fuel aluminium tank. a frankland floater magnesium center section takes mag quickchange side bells but is a non quickchange center.agood halibrand quickchange 4.86 with 31 spline spool center various short axle tubes. any ball park on axle flang to axle flang width?for a fed. willwood mastercylinder with foot pedal and hand brake. alluminium unico gas pedal. still undecided on a chassis buy or build. really like the early semi short cars maybe 112". If i run aluminium or mag wide five hubs in the rear i have vaious wheel both alumag halibrands or alluminium wheel from 12" to 7" with various offsets any advise on chassis mfg. besides king and tardel. on the east coast if possible. Thanks Larry

 

Larry,
depending on the wheel back space and the outside width of the frame the flange to flange width of the rear should be in the 32-35" range.

Roo

 

I agree. Why would you want to build a car that every time you take it somewhere you are going to worry about whether or not they will let you race it? An old-timey looking car can be built to spec and only the existence of an up-to-date cage will mar the old effect - a compromise you should willingly embrace.

Good luck. Have fun. Post pics.

 

Sounds like you found some cool stuff to sell to fund your project . Just some insight . I did use to race circle track cars 7 years. Sure is nice not to wash the clay off the car or straighten panels,bumpers. You will learn to like drag racing. I wish I would have started sooner. Ask away on questions. Bob

 

Bob what is the wheel base of your altered. what ring and pinion do you run in the rear.

 

Buy some tube and get started. There are alot of guys on here to help you along the way. I come from a dirt late model background so my dragster has really been pretty easy and alot of fun to build.

 

any other chassis builders out there.

 

Hey mine is 125 inch It has an Olds rear with 4.88 or 4.86 Powerglide 352 inch Sbc with Track one brodix heads It spins 7600 -7700 at the lights best this year 9.04 144mph 1/4 mile 5.67 1/8 mile. I know should be faster but I'm havin fun. Pm if you want. Bob

 

Me

These are probably a little longer than what you want but I can do short too,

Roo

 

here is a nice start, new chassis (new steel) set up for a sbc & glide + the rear is set up. alittle longer then you wanted but it's prices right and all the hard work is done. you can add a front hoop to make it a 5 pt, and if ou lay it down on the same angle as the main hoop it will still look nostalgic. looks like your gonna have to add kidney bars for tech + saftey. but it's a real nice start.
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...quot-front-engine-dragster-slingshot-rol.html