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folding convt. top?? need your opinions!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hotrodhell35, Dec 11, 2010.

  1. Hotrodhell35
    Joined: Oct 30, 2010
    Posts: 440

    Hotrodhell35
    Member

    Thanks guys! Brian, I love your car! As for the rake, I do plan on adding a leaf or two up front and ive got taller tires on their way! The current ones are 4.75 19s and ive ordered 7.50s for the rears.
     
  2. Hotrodhell35
    Joined: Oct 30, 2010
    Posts: 440

    Hotrodhell35
    Member

    As far as the body goes, ive just started on that. I do plan on chopping the posts and thinning them out. Its a project and im sure im going to learn/fix things as I go! Thanks for the honesty and opinions, it helps!
     
  3. fastrnu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 739

    fastrnu
    Member
    from shelton,wa

    WTH! I,ll answer the damn question. BOTH! make your folding top removable.
    Rear snaps set to match your tonneau.
    Personaly i would change those posts. but thats me. Its all urines pee pee you build how you want.

    always remember, there is a fine line between "wow thats awsome" and WTF were you thinking" . there will always be a HAMB'er there to let you know which side of the line yer on.
     
  4. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    user.jpg
    not sure how to explain this, but I'll give it a shot.

    with the rack mounted solid to the frame any axle movement is going to make the tierods change angle.

    the steering arms act only on the straight line measurement between the arm itself and the rack. (blue line)

    changing the angle of the tierods makes them appear shorter when measured against the blue line.

    this will cause the outer tierod and steering arm to move in an arc changing the toe in/out.

    thats what causes bumpsteer with a solid rack.

    That help?
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2010
  5. 1. you sound like you know what you're talking about. my question is most straight axles have less than 3 inches travel. maybe 2 up and 1 down how much arc is there in that range.

    2. all the early racks on axles that I remember were mounted to the axle.
     
  6. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    not much, but enough to cause it to be squirrely over a series of bumps and can also induce death wobble. the toe in/out will change with every imperfection in the road.

    the higher the base angle of the tierods the more drastic the change. shorter tierods will make it worse.

    its not a good design.

    racks mounted to the axles have issues of their own.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2010
  7. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    I've mounted racks to axles on three builds. Never to a frame. As Tinman explains why.
    Use a telescoping column joint, as the suspension movement will need this joint. When mounting to an axle, it's position will determine the proper Ackerman effect. And yes, make up a top of some kind, you'll be glad to have it. Done right, the lines will compliment the build.
     
  8. I like it.. But I would have chopped the original top per-say and made it removable even.. But if you go with a softie make it nice and flat on the top with sharp corners like a high-top Model T.. Always loved that look.. Go see my pictures :^)
     
  9. Collin;
    personally I really like your Hot Rod!
    Da Tinman is correct about steering.
    What is the doohickey at the front center of the axle?
    Wooden wheels look great.
     
  10. Displayman
    Joined: Nov 29, 2009
    Posts: 84

    Displayman
    Member

  11. Hotrodhell35
    Joined: Oct 30, 2010
    Posts: 440

    Hotrodhell35
    Member


    Thats the friction shock
     
  12. Hotrodhell35
    Joined: Oct 30, 2010
    Posts: 440

    Hotrodhell35
    Member

  13. MengesTwinCustoms
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 279

    MengesTwinCustoms
    Member

    i like the wooden wheels, cool looking modified
     

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