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Steel vs Wood floor in Model A?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bull, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

    So, as many of you know, I am in the process of rebuilding my A Tudor after a head-on crash. The debate now is whether to replace the wood floor in the car with steel or just leave the nice wood floor in place. The wood floor survived the crash (a 70+ mph impact) without being compromised at all. Not even a crack! The seat mount was bolted to the frame of the car and stayed in place as well.

    I have the opportunity to replace the wood with steel, but am wondering if it's necessary. The car was a long hauler and cruiser with an occasional trip to the drag strip. As I rebuild the car, much of it will be rebuilt to the way it was before the crash with the addition of about 100 more hp (up from 300 to 400). It may get a rollbar this time around as well.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,735

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've used both,,my first Model A pickup had wood floor boards,,but I used metal in all my rods since then,,,

    This is my 32 truck floor,,all metal

    [​IMG]

    I guess it's all in what you want. HRP
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2010
  3. Rich Wright
    Joined: Jan 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,918

    Rich Wright

    I have wood in my sedan. I planed it off and sheeted it with engine turned 3/32 aluminum. I like. The ability to remove the floor makes maintenance easier and I think it looks good.
     
  4. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,426

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Either is fine in my book. Your floor was obviously pretty tough, so I'd personally just leave it as is.

    Post some pics of how the rebuild is going (and some current ones of your other sedan project).
     
  5. wood is good

    but for that HP hope you have a sturdy frame

    i am woried about mein 302 fd and just a boxed frame, think it will twist too much, well its not much power anyhou
     
  6. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,401

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Im going wood..looks good, sound deadner, looks right...might even be..dare i say it..


    traditional:D...also a good insulator from heat

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2010
  7. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

    The teardown & rebuild stuff is towards the end of this post. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275101&showall=1 Hasn't been a ton of progress lately since the shop has gotten busy with collision repair this winter and a 70 Boss 302 restoration. Paying work comes first! I did buy a Barry Grant Six Shooter/3 Deuce set-up for it from Continentaljohn though. :)

    Just posted some updates to the car ***us and I are working on:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371150&showall=1
     
  8. Steel vs Wood floor in Model A? Heres my latest, I see no real problem with wood I have had both........
     

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  9. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    Whoa !! I have a bunch of that stuff left over from re-flooring my 5th wheel trailer... saved it in the shed to maybe used on the floor of my current build Model A coupe........
    Never throw anything out !!
     
  10. GasserDave
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 132

    GasserDave
    Member
    from Sin City

    Is there any benefit other than structural integrity in steel vs wood...
     
  11. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Im using Wood in the A and covering the bottom with some vinyl coated aluminum I picked up ,Also thought about formica.
     
  12. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    I've used plywood to save weight, cost and gain some sound deadening and insulation.
     
  13. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

    So it looks like either is acceptable. What are the thoughts on a rollbar with a wood floor? Obviously it would be bolted to the frame rails. Any pics of rollbars in A Tudors out there?
     
  14. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

    Anyone else?
     
  15. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I had always been told that seatbelts should be mounted to a solid floor, not the frame, so you wouldn't be injured if the the body came loose in an impact.
    I don't know if thats really true or not. I plan on metal floor in mine, with seat belts mounted to floor.
     
  16. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,401

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    you do know that you can tie into the sub rails for your belts, right?
    and if the body does seperate from the frame the subrails go with the body..and I have re-inforced my sub rails and will be re-inforcing my B pillar where my shoulder restraint will be anchored.

    If you do tie into the subrails, and re-inforce them..you can still go wood floor, (or what ever material choice), and not have to additionally brace your floors.

    just a thought
     
  17. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,036

    belair
    Member

    If the body seperates from the frame in wreck, I think where you mounted the seat belts is a moot point. :)
     
    jaygryph likes this.
  18. A Chopped Coupe
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 1,133

    A Chopped Coupe
    Member

    I am a proponent of steel and boxing the frame.
    If you are going to be putting a 400hp ATC in the car and doing any drag racing with "real" slicks putting steel floors and boxing the frame is a must.
    Yes, it does add some weight, but the suspension stays put, door/hood gaps stay put an it
    gives the car a more solid feeling. IMHO
     

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  19. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    I used 14 ga 1 x 2 steel for my subrails and 16 ga for the floor mainly to keep the body from flexing at all.'
    Maybe not to traditional but very strong, and yes it is much heavier now but a SBC in a model A will be plenty quick enough and won't make any difference for how I want to use it.
    I also put 1" square tubing around all the windows and inside the B pillar, across the windshield header and across the roof and tied it all the the steel floor so the car should feel really solid going down the road and I can bolt seatbelts almost anywhere I want.
     
  20. Nobodys Hero
    Joined: Oct 10, 2005
    Posts: 436

    Nobodys Hero
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Im running an original wood floor in my coupe, and I feel that it not only looks a bit more original, but i feel it helps quite things down in the cab. Metal is loud, wood is quite
     
  21. Detonator
    Joined: Jun 25, 2001
    Posts: 1,752

    Detonator
    Member
    from santa cruz

    I've got a wood floor in my '28 rpu and steel in my '29 roadster -- and really prefer the wood for all the reasons mentioned above. One additional concern: the steel floor really conducts heat -- I had blisters to prove it. On a long summer drive, I much rather be on wood.
     
  22. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

    To clear some things up:

    The frame is boxed front to back.
    The stock subrails are still intact.
    The seat frame is bolted through the floor and into the frame rails.
    The seatbelts are bolted to the seat frame.

    I'm fairly convinced to just leave the wood floor in the car, but what about adding a rollbar?

    Here's some pics of the floor for reference (not the greatest pics, but you get the idea):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  23. StrickV8
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,186

    StrickV8
    Member

    for those guys using wood floors, did you stain or paint yours? wondering which would hold up better...
     
  24. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,496

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have you seen the plywood coated in a black plastic covering. Used to shore up ditches when being dug. It's about 5/8 th's inch thick. Also has many thinner layers and is VERY strong. Very moisture resistant. Wouldn't need a floor mat........
     
  25. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    heres my floor im going to put a clear varnish on it or something to keep it from turning black so fast. i like it cheap and clean
    [​IMG]
     
  26. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,135

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I went half & half...steel from the seats forward & plywood under the seats. The trans & driveshaft humps are steel. I really like wood & wonder if the wood may have been better all the way around. It certainly would have saved a lot of build time.
     
  27. garagerods
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 451

    garagerods
    Member
    from Omaha

    Personally, with the exception of restoration, I'm unable to think of any rational reason why a person would use wood and not metal for a floor board.

    Not pickin' a fight. Just my opinion.
     
  28. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,772

    41 C28
    Member

    I used marine grade plywood along with steel for the floor in roadster. Wood is a good insulator. I feel comfortable with a wood floor.
     
  29. im going metal with sound deadner on top.some of us cant get wood to do what metal can in our floor contours
     
  30. 62rebel
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 3,233

    62rebel
    Member

    what about you guys in inspection states? i know these are old cars and often exempt from certain aspects or regs, but everywhere isn't the same... i know Virginia was tight as hell on any floor not being solid metal and welded up when i lived there. granted, i didn't have that old a car, but they sure frowned on anything other than solid, welded steel.

    i've followed several build threads on "A" type cars, and think that having the body tied together as much as possible makes it inherently stronger and resistant to damage than the original design. not traditional per se, but stronger anyway.

    i'm compiling as much data as possible regarding A's for a future build and soak up everything i see, so keep it coming.
     

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