Sunday I'm picking up my first quick change rear. It's a used 10" circle track unit with closed axles. I checked the Frankland site for brake parts and axles I need, as this is too narrow. My question is, what should I beware of when going over this thing? I think I can rebuild everything if needed. Actually, from what I've seen, the one I am getting is in pretty good shape. There sure is a ****load of small wearable parts in this thing though. Do they need alot of maint. on the street?
I think I can rebuild everything if needed. Actually, from what I've seen, the one I am getting is in pretty good shape. There sure is a ****load of small wearable parts in this thing though. Do they need alot of maint. on the street?[/QUOTE] I can't comment on the franklin units, but I run a Halibrand Av8 on the street and it has been very good to me. I have about 8,500 miles on it and only have changed gears and fluids. I think if you try to run a spool on the street you will have issues, but I am running a diff. in mine and live with one wheel burn outs.
Let me know how it goes, should be a durable street set up, the guys on the track always have their foot in it, Use good quality bearings in the rebuild, don't look for the cheapest there are differances in bearing quality.
I don't think you have a 10" Q/C, you have what is called a "10 spline" rear end. The 10 referring to the number of splines on the Q/C gear shafts. A V8 Q/C rear has 6 spline shafts and uses different and much smaller R&P and Q/C rears. Find a Detroit locker carrier to replace the spool. This'll work good on the street. R&Ps will normally be 4:11 or 4:86. Sometimes you'll see a 4:56. Check all the bearings. To dis***emble the main case, heat it up with a torch. The aluminum expands more than the steel and you'll be able to drive the bearings out along with the pinion and mainshaft. Closely check the pinion nose support bearing and the main case where it sets. This is a breakage prone area. The Q/C covers have a tendency to let the bearing spin in their seat. Cheap fix, get another cover and make a lamp stand outa' the old one. 10 spline Q/Cs are normally set-up for full floating axles. An overkill for street use, but still safer.
Modifieddriver pretty much nailed it. The only things I can add are; what are you planning on for brakes and axle pattern? Most QCs are set up with wide 5 and disk brakes, which are not to most peoples taste for a "traditional hot rod." Most folks will convert the axle tubes to Ford 9in axle tubes and drum brakes. If you can live with the wide 5, all you have to do is ditch the spool and you are in bussiness. If you want Ford bolt pattern axles, it gewts a little more tricky.... If you go the Ford axle pattern, gimme a holler and I can go over some of the finer points. Good luck, -Abone. Here's mine. Goin in the Model A next month
I've driven Franklins and Winters QC's all over this country ( 20,000 miles a summer) and never had a problem...! Once you get the right setup the only adjustment will be gear changes for the fun of it...!
I think he is refering to a 10" ring gear. Like a Halibrand Champ or others using the 10" Ford truck ring gear. Just check of stress cracks on the inside of the case where the shaft come through the housing. If the ring and pinion is fine LEAVE THEM alone it is a ***** to setup the shims if you lose track of where they go. Be prepared for the noisy winding sound of the straight cut gears. But nothing look cooooler then a QC from the rear! Good luck! dso
I've had a few different people tell me that an older QC won't hold up to drag racing with a hot SBC (looking to run mid 10's-low 11's). Do you guys agree? I'm leaning toward a 9", and the QC will probably go on the egay, but DAMN! It just looks so cool, I'd love to use it!
Thanks for the info! I am buting this rear from a circle jerk racer who steped down a cl*** and can't use the quick change. From what I found on the Frankland and Winters websites, this is a trad 10 inch ring gear sprint car axle. I talked to the seller and he told me that 5x5 'Grand National' hubs are available and cheap. I found them new and they match my 5x5 stock bolt pattern (Ah, the Tao of g***er Pontiacs). I will measure this ***** on Sunday and check for bad things. My buddy who led me to these circle track parts runs 12 bolts in his car and is 2 cl***es below the guys who run the sprint rears. After seeing the abuse he puts to the factory stuff he has, I can't imagine a Frankland would be weaker than a Furd 9 inch. There are several versions of the QC centers out there. msny made to just replace the early Furd pumpkins. I suspect these are the weak units. My unit is anything but weak, just ask my *****es! Hey Elvis Hitler, what ends do you have on your QC? I need parts...
What kind of QC do you have? If it's a Model-A QC, don't bother, if it's a V-8 QC, it probably won't last. If you've got a Champ QC, you're probably OK...
I ***ume you're referring to me, and if so, I'm pretty impressed! Not too many people are familiar with his work! I haven't had the wheels off yet. I know NOTHING about QC's, but the guy I got it from said its a Frankland (it came with the coupe I bought), and he says the axles are out of like a '48 Stude truck, with FRONT brakes off of a '72 Chevy 3/4 ton on it. It has 8 or 10 lug wheels on it (I haven't gone and picked it up yet, so I can't say for sure). Other people that have seen the pic say it DOESN'T look like a Frankland, so I don't know!
That thing is weird. It sortof looks like a Frankland. I'm just learning about these myself. Mine has more ribbing in the side bells, but they can be from anywhere. The center is what counts. I think the sound of straight cut gears sounds beautiful. I need to take out the spool, so I do need to redo the ring/pinion setup. I have a friend who's an ace machinist to do it for me.
Go to some local circle track racers, and get the name of the local guy or guys that do their q. c. work . They know all the ins and outs of q. c.'s. That's what I did.......everything worked out great. I hope you like noise, I do!!!
Who'd you go to in Waukesha...? Outhouse in Mukwanago or the Guy on Hwy 83 by 18..., Behlings or Borchards...?
.......................................................................................................................................................................................................... I dont think I would call some one a jerk then ask for advise from them. Most of your replys were from circle track racers................................
Not looking to ruffle any skirts. My best friend is a roundy-round dirt ****er. I always call him a circle jerk. If I wasn't hanging around circle track racers, I never would have scored the rear. I'm asking around here for a perspective of people who have run them on the street. I think I got some good info. p.s., it's "A-D-V-I-C-E" and "R-E-P-L-I-E-S", Hillbilly.
My machinist buddy is also a circle burner. I'm confident he will set it up right, he does first cl*** work. Anyone in Jersey who needs a rear setup can ask me for a hookup. I've been searching for a good posi and the right gears for my stock rear (60 Pontiac). Turns out I'll be able to go to the quick change for not much more green! Now I can p*** my rear onto someone else without chopping up a clean desirable axle for ladder bars. I will be using 'Grand National' hubs for the ends. I can get them to accept GM drums or Wildwood disks with a 5x5 pattern, which will match my fronts.
That looks exactly like my rear! Is it a Frankland or a Winters? Were they one company at some point?
Holy ****, four posts to myself in a row. Somebody p*** me a washcloth. Well, here she is. Took it apart and everything looks great. Came off a sprint car a few years back and stored inside since then. It has Camaro sized axle tubes and mounts for GM calipers. I plan to swap the axles and ends out. The pictures don't do it justice, this is one big mother ****er. Much bigger than what you usually see under the shiny street rods. I know there are smaller QC's available. This is the real deal.
Piled in a corner now. I'm trying to find someone local to set it up for me. Still need hubs and drums.
I just picked up a Frankland myself from another HAMBer.. I'll be converting it to street use when i build my 5 window, so i'll be using this info as well.. Thanks guy's. Tony
Identificaton of rear end. Frankland with super speedway gear cover housing. (holds more gear oil). This is a full float axle unit since it has GM caliper brackets it was probably used in a latemodel stock car equipped with a spool but could have a locker style unit also. These are large units to put in a hot rod but will work fine, outside of size most of these units are to wide. You need a hub flange to hub flange measurement. If you got small hubs wiith this unit that measure 5 x 5 you can run these but you with need stock car style wheels, check the studs as most are 5/8" and standard rims take 1/2" and the center registration hole is to small. Take time and clean the unit off. A quick check of condition can be done by checking the gear oil. Drop the cover and drain the oil in a catch pan. Check the color of the gear oil. If it has been setting any particles of bearing bearing failure will have settled to the bottom and will be obvious. If it looks like very very fine metal flake paint it ok. Check the bearing cover bearings for hard spots. To check the ring gear section clean the drain pan and repeat. If the remaing gear oil comes out looking similar to the oil from the gear cover and without any chunks or large flakes of metal its probably ok. With the gear set removed spin the jack shaft and pinion. They should spin freely with no hard spots. To run this on the street you are going to have to junk the spool (locked rear). If you decide to go with a locker you can use the ring gear over so there is no need to diss***emble the pinion from the case. You will have to realign the bearing crush on the carrier and check the pinion back lash after swapping parts. At that time you might want to shorten the width and use late model Ford ends, this will allow the use of new style axles with car bolt pattern. A cautionary note on axle housings, since this was used in a race car it is importand to determine if the housing tubes are square to the center section and not bent from crashes. Take a fine graduated tape measure and measure from the mating seam of the housing and case to the outer flange edge on the tube, front to back and top to bottom should be the same, if they are not there is a possiblity of a bent housing. The distance should measure the same side to side if it does not it has offset axles. This is a quick rundown to help you out along with the input from other posts.
I dont think that one came out of a sprint unless it was an old sprint. It dont mater anyway the center section will work. Deos it have axle in it? The newer QC use a 31 spline that is the same as a 31 spl. 9". The older ones were based of 3/4 ton truck rear ends and the div. had I think a 11 spl axle. For a 5 on 5 bolt axle look for f1 ford pu axle. You can weld the 9' or f1 axle houseing right to the end of the 3'' tubes. You may get lucky and that QC may a locker or quick track in it allready. If not there are two dif. width of lockers. Look at the inside of both bells and lay a streight edge across the opening and check to see if the bearing are the same depth. If so it takes the long spoll
any quality built sprintcar i mean built in the last 45-50 years would of run an open tube rear axle . i mean if you pushed the car you could watch the axle rotate. in the late 40s and early 50s most used a v-8 cetersection with a 2 in diameter live axle that had tapered ends with a keyway. the champ style rear used ford 3/4 ton parts 3 in leve axle tapered ends with keyways somewhere in the early mid 60s they still used a 3 in live axle but started to use splined ends mike
I ran a Halibrand V-8 for years- no problems. Set it up on the tight side to try to keep the whine down- it worked. Mine ran a lot cooler and quieter with synthetic oil in it.
Has a magnesium case explode when powershifting to 2nd, behind a Flathead....oops. Replaced it with a Rodsville V-8 centersection(stronger unit), now building a bigger flathead....hold it, is this the definition of insanity?
Great new info! This is the 3/4 ton style. It has 11 spline axles and a 10" ring gear. I can run 5/8 studs. I have a new set of Radir 5x5's for it. I know, I should have waited to make that purchase. I just needed something shiny in the garage. I would just weld new tubes on, but then I have the problem of having custom axles made for the oddball spline. I'd rather not touch the axles and bolt on the hubs that use the eight bolts for the flange. I'm not sure this will work with 5x5 though (axle flange too big?). The catalogs are confusing. Too many options for this straight line yahoo. I was going to use the checkbook solution and drop the thing off at the nearest Circle Burner shop and tell them I want it back with hubs and brakes. I would have already done that, but I don't think there are any drums available out of the catalog, just disks So, I want to find a set of hubs and from that I can fabricate whatever I need to bolt on backing plates and drums. Sorry I said "Sprint car". My mistake. The car this came from ran in a cl*** called "Modified" in NJ. Every state has different names for the same cl***, so I'm not sure what that means elsewhere. It had a full size tin body, and a big block backed by a crash-box two-speed. The crazy clutchless thing that goes when you step on the 'clutch'. All the cars stall on red flags because there is no neutral.
Repo. Mine is the same deal as yours. I had a new locker and ring/pinion put in by the local circle track hero. Make SURE the guy who sets it up has LOTS of experience with QCs. In general, a street rear will be set up "tighter" than a race unit to allow the aluminum to expand and get "looser" during long trips. As for brakes, I used the housing ends off a Ford Truck 9in and also the complete brake ***embly. I bought an 8 foot length of axle tubing from Winters and cut to length. I did have to pop 300 bucks for a set of Mosher axles to go with the 31 spline locker. Well worth the money. Even with slicks, I don't have to worry. I LOOOOOOVE my quickie. Not a lick of trouble, even with a 3000 mile trip to the HAMB Drags, including an 18 hour bonzie run on the way back. Here is the same shot I always post.. Good luck, -Abone.
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