1954 Chevy Car. Mustang 2 Install help needed

i like the look of No Limit's kit but have always been hesitant on buying it. i have heard from other people that their instructions **** and you have to figure things out on your own. i've installed two TCI kits and those are pretty straight fwd.

the other kit i thought of going with was the Fatman Ultralow.

glad to see that that they got online and helped you out.

 

I like hiedts the instructions are great and you can use coil or air bags

 

My last issue is mounted the upper shock mount. There are two tabs which were previously pictured.

On is longer than the other and I can figure out which one goes in front of the shock and which one goes in back. I think they did this to angle the shock.

Michael had replied about this and said "The thicker shock mount goes in front" But, when I hear thickness I think of the thickness of the material. But both pieces are the same thickness. So I am sure he is referring to one tab being longer than the other.

Does anyone know: When the airbag is filled with air, does it expand bag the bag longer than what it is in its NO Air state? Or does the air in the bag ONLY stop the bag from collapsing from the weight of the car?
This will help be figure out the shock position...

 

man honestly for the money u spend thats a very very scary looking kit.... upper mounts look week too... thats just my opninion tho... i used a heidts on mine and took an inch out of the lower crossmember and had nothing like gaps like that

 

im no genius but grade 5 bolts on steering components???? and shallow nuts EEK!!!! keep that car wayyyyy behind me

 

I figured out what Michael meant by the thicker leg. Pictured you can see both upper shock mounts. The thicker legged tab goes in front. I removed the airbag to do the install for the tack welds. that made it much easier to get everything aligned correctly.

So now, everything is tacked and ready for my professional welder to come in and final weld everything.

Still need the correct brake calipers from No Limit, but that won't stop me from ***embling everything as far as I can.

 

The grade 5 bolts only hold the rack to the crossmember. There really isn't going to be much load on them at all. Shallow nuts are Nylon lock nuts that I am going to apply lock***e to.

In regards to the upper bag mounts. They are pretty beefy pieces. I have seen several other kits and non were as heavy and as well braced as these were.

The heidts kit you mention is one of the most notorious kits for failing. But, Id love to hear a much more proven reason as to why this kit is not strong?

 

The bags should stay there same diameter...so if its a 6" bag the size should not change, its 6 when slammed or expanded...they just expand upward when inflated. Also u may want to adjust your mounting so when slammed the bag is not slammed on its stops too...i left a little bit of play so there was no pinching when car is slammed.

 

i am still curious about what spindles you guys use, cause these dont look much like mustang II spindles to me.

 

i am a retard, i must have skipped over this. this is awesome, im super impressed you guys made the most awesome super spindle combination on the planet.

 

My buddy came by last night to weld everything in for me. His name is Sean Pearson and he owns/opeartes Viking Off Road Engineering in Ventura, CA.
He is a damn good welder. And his offroad suspension kits are really nice pieces.




I am going to buy the motor mounts from No Limit and weld those in before I paint the frame.

Just as a side note. No Limit received my returned calipers on Monday, today is Weds. and I already received the replacement calipers. So they did a very good job about turning that around.

 

Looks good man..glad there making it all come together for ya!

 

looks like your making good progress. The bag specs are as follows: Min height - 3", max height - 7", Inflated diameter - 6.5". Hope that helps. Happy new year!!!

 

The min and max height is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

I wanted to show off the No Limit Engineering Motor Mounts. Michael let me borrow their tool, which locates the mounts at the perfect distance apart for a SBC

 

Why is there no flat 'pad' for the motor mount to sit on (attached to the top of the long tubes)?

Those mounts make me think the rubber part of the motor mounts will be in shear instead of compression (as per the factory set-up).

I have seen the rubber come away from the mount with those tubes used without the pad for the mount to sit on.

In theory you should be able to sit the motor in place without the bolts being in the tubes - i.e. the bolts are only to stop the motor lifting etc.

 

You guys ready for some eye candy. Here we have to examples of 49-54 chevy cars. The green one is a 53 with our No Limit Air glide front suspension and our trailing arm rear supsension. The supsension is controlled via a Air Ride Technologies Air Pod mounted in the trunk.
Were running a stock rebuilt 350 with a 700 r4 trans and a 9 inch ford we had laying around. First picture is with the green car all the way up as high as she goes and the second pic is laid out. The rear will go lower if you install a 3 inch lowering block, c notch the frame, and cut a small hole in the trunk for the pumpkin AKA rear axle housing. We chose to leave the frame and floor completly stock to show what we can do with our front and rear supsensions. Both vehicles served as our R & D guinea pigs. One air sprung and one coilover just to make sure both kits worked as good as we planned. There are more pics to follow.

 

In the 25 years No limit has been in business weve been using this style of motor mounts with no problems. We have seen some stock applications with the flat plate that you talk of. If you want you are welcome to get a piece of 2 inch by 2 inch .25 inch thick and weld it to the motor mounts but its not necessary. With the wieght of the motor pushing down on the rubber mounts theres no way the metal inside can tear out of the rubber motor mount. I Have seen motor mounts tear before. But only under extreme conditions such as a motor that produces 1,200 Horsepower. If you plan on running a motor capable of 1,200 then you should consider a Polyurethane mount or a solid mount.

 

Heres some pictures of No Limits Bolt on Power Bake Kit. As you can see we have one on the 51 and 53 chevy. The kit comes with the booster and master cylinder. It also comes with a plate that bolts into the kidney shaped factory hole you have in the firewall. The plate is 3/16 of an inch thick. It has all the holes for firewall and booster already in it. It comes with a pedal pivot that goes on the inside of the firewall, Pedal and rubber pad. It also comes with two braces that will connect the firewall to the dash. Its a very nice kit that is easy to install. The kit is 425.00. Any questions about it give me a call or post on the HAMB.

 

more brake kit pictures

 

Hers some steering shaft and u joint shots. We used the stock column on the 53 chevy. We have an adapter kit (STC-100) that you can modify the bottom of the column to accept a bearing and u joint so you can connect the stock column to the rack and pinion. We also used the stock shift lever on the column to shift our 700r4. We dont offer a kit to do that but its pretty easy. You can get the cable from ididit, a little fabrication and you look stock with over drive.

The 51 on the other hand requires another u joint and a support bearing to get around the header on the LS. This car is a little nicer than the 53 so we put an ididit column with the shifter on the column so a cable hooks up to the 4l60e no problem.

 

Heres the u-Joint shot on the 51 with coilovers and a 5.3 LS.

 

The green 53 we built on a budget. We saved a ton of money by using the stock steering column, steering wheel, and shift lever. We sell a kit to modify the coluumn to connect to a standard 3/4 DD steering shaft. We do not sell a kit to modify the bottom of the shift arm but you can look at the pictures and easily duplicate what we did. The cable you will need to shift the trans we have available from Ididit.

Heres a shot of the Air Ride Tech Control panel mounted in the factory ash tray opening. Also a quick shot in the trunk of the Air Ride Tech. Air Pod in the trunk.

Again this car was built on a tight budget and is in no way a show car. We built this car to drive. We also wanted to thrash on it a bit just to make sure everything works. So Im pretty embarr***ed to post some of these pics. At this point if someone were to take this car apart and detail the ch***is and body of the car it would be an extremely nice car. So please dont look down on us for driving such a dirty car.

 

Michael,
Is my motor mount orientation correct? I know we spoke over the phone about this. But, I'd feel better knowing you saw the picture I took and gave me the thumbs up.

 

Hey Micheal...did I read somewhere or hear you guys are building bolt in rear trailing arm kits for these cars?

 

yeah Eric they are. their using the Chevy truck arm/ Nascar set up. i already have a set of truck arms that i'm going to be using for the rear.

 

Is it a pre fabbed bolt in crossmember along with the arms? I saw a set up from CPP in Rod Custom and thought it was a good looking setup..wondering if Micheals company was doing there own.

 

yup doing their own. i talked to CPP about it and they said there was problems with it. so their not producing it. but you can fab up your own truck arms and crossmember. saves you some cash.

 

Eric,
Michael told me that they are definitely making a rear trailing arm kit. They have even reduced the price on their kit. I can't remember how much exactly...

 

I did makes all of mine(thread on it) but was just courious for future projects and wondered what the priceline was compared to the fab time and how well it all went together, plus it may help others reading this in the same boat as trailing arms are a great way to make a nice riding low car!

 

WCRIOT
The motor mounts look great. That's exactly how we set them up here in the shop. I give you permission to weld them in.

Chevy54
Yes we do offer a trailing arm kits for the 37-54 chevy cars. The kits vary in style depending on what year you have.

Yes they do bolt in but require welding after everything is fitted.

We use two big rivets on each side of the frame to identify were it goes. We pick up like six factory bolts that surround the two big rivets. So you bolt in the front crossmember that holds the trailing arms. Weld it up. The upper bag or coilover mount uses one hole on the side of the frame to align the upper bracket to. The bracket is shaped to match the shape of the frame so it simply sits on top of the frame, line up the holes, clamp in place and weld. The hard part is welding the axle pads to the housing, and making sure the axle is square in the car. If you can read a tape measure you should have no problem doing that. Ill try and post some pictures of the trailing arm kits. any questions let me know.