Hey. Can you put por 15 on and engine block and it wont burn off? What colors can you get it in, or can they mix you a color? Ive got a sbc that is rebuilt but I neglected to paint it immediately and now ive got some rust and I figured if por 15 is heat resistant I wouldnt have to somehow get the rust off the block and heads. Can you put it in a gun or does it have to be brushed on? I havent really searched, but do they have a website? Help or tips are appreciated...................Briggs
Yes it burns off...get the high temp POR-15. Colors? Depends on who you buy it from and what they carry. Paint over rust. Wire brush it at the bare minimum. Gun? Yes but use a good respirator this stuff will mess you up. Wear gloves when mixing because it is hard to get out of skin...and eyes and ears. Bad stuff!
It's full of them isocyanates....bad little *******s. If you spray it only do it with a suit and a fresh air respirator...if brush painting it only do in well ventilated area with a good respirator...and then you probably will still get a headache. Brian
POR 15 seems like a bad bandaid to me. For rusty parts, fix em and paint with one of the real paint products, not the cheezy looking POR 15. For motor parts, they now offer several engine colors, but why? Urethane enamal works fine.
I'd agree with the boys. Only spray it if you have to, and then make sure you are fully suited up. It is a good cheap solution to cleaning up a manky looking motor. I hit the bad spots with a wire brush then brushed on the POR with a top coat of POR engine enamel and had pretty decent results. It was done 4 years and many miles ago and still hasn't burn off. It's great if you don't want to pull the motor to paint, or if you are a lazy sob like me and don't want to get involved in masking things off prior to spraying.
Works great on underbody stuff and inside panels where you want protection but you'll never see it. I always brushed it on, had a nice consistency and kept rust from coming back, but I never sprayed it. I'd use it again on ch***is and the underside of floor pans, and inside doors and quarters. I think Eastwood has a better product overall though. You don't have to buy a bunch of other stuff (like metal prep and cleaners, thinners) to get it to work right. There was a comparo between POR-15 and Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" in this month's "Auto Restorer" magazine...Eastwood's won. Cheaper and easier to work with, with better rust prevention results. In a real world test.
I used it on a junkyard motor I put in my 54 Chevy. Cleaned the engine very well, and used the silver POR as a primer..with Imron over it. Still looked great after 6 years, when I sold it. Burned a bit around the exhaust manifolds, as usual. Also used it as a primer to paint an engine with POR-15's engine enamel. Again, worked very well. Follow other poster's precautions about spraying it. I spray it on ch***is, all the time, with the POR topcoat to finish.
[ QUOTE ] Also used it as a primer to paint an engine with POR-15's engine enamel [/ QUOTE ] so if I decide to use their engine enamel I still have to prime the engine with something?
[ QUOTE ] DO NOT - DO NOT - DO NOT spray POR-15! I did it and I hurt myself. [/ QUOTE ] I strongly dissagree.... We used Por 15 dark grey on my 47 chevy frame and it came out SWEET. we tried brushing and it came out to streeky.. My advice, suit up in a plasic throwaway suit , use a 18buck throw away gun and try getting the dark grey/ black paint..... We painted the frame about 5 years ago, and while using the spray gun it still looks wet and all nice and shinny
B&SChevelle, I used it AS a primer. The only thing is, after you put the POR-15 on, you need to put the paint on it as soon as it's tacked off. If it dries, the paint won't stick. They do sell an adhesion promoter, Tie-Coat, so you can paint over dry POR, but it's unnecessary, if you 'time' your painting correctly.
I agree with 41sled, I sprayed the black on a frame, and it came out great. POR15 is amazing, I guess the clear one is the strongest believe it or not. Just don't get it on you as I'm sure someone as said already, but I digress..... You can get the special thinner (if it's really special) from where you got the POR15 usually. Also, sometimes when you brush it on you get little bubbles, try using a sponge brush those don't leave the little bubbles.
I used it on my radiator support - about 2 months later when I painted my hood I laid some tape across the por-15 painted rad support and when I pulled off the tape the por-15 came with it. It came off in sheets, and it was kinda stretchy like saran wrap. Wierd. I don't think it sticks well to anything but rust. Just my 2cents. -Blair
I'll have to remember the brake fluid thing...I'm a slob and always get it where I don't want it! I got some overspray on the drive 2 years ago and it is still there!
yeah don't put that **** anywhere that's not rusty, because it will peel the hell right off, and not just in one little spot, the whole non-rusty area will slowly peel away. I figured that out the hard way on the shoebox and had to spend a day sanding all off it off, and wasted quite a bit of the expensive ****.
41sled, that chevy is awesome! I love that cut and sectioned hood and that flat bumper with shiny bolts, nice work!
If you do use it in an area without rust, put some scuff marks down so it has something to hold on to. Also make sure the area has been cleaned/degreased. You don't even want the oils from your hands left behind. Good stuff!
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