Ok this 429 is said to be good, the edelbrock carb smelled of old gas so I rebuilt it. I have rebuilt a good amount of carbs never an issue I am getting spark The carb is getting fuel, and when i throttle it I see it spraying I checked 3 times and it IS NOT 180 out Checked the firing order from different sources gone through it twice. Will not fire, I have adjusted the timing from 0-25 degrees ( read that it like 6-8 and some say 10) Pops through the carb like a back fire but no flame, I see a mist pushing from the valve cover vents I dont know what else to check, will not even start to run just turns over then gasses out the carb
I checked the timing mark on the crank pulley, turned to motor to tdc (checked with screwdriver) That is accurate Turned it over by hand, watched the intake valve open and close, got to tdc mark, both rockers jiggle, all is closed on #1 telling me that it is now at TDC on compression stroke. Rotor points to #1 it has an msd that I have hot wired, I tested a plug and have spark, and I am getting a timing light so I know its getting spark. Plugs are gapped at .035
If you have spark, fuel and timing is right, it will run. I know you say you've checked it for TDC #1 put just to be sure, Pull the #1 spark plug and put your finger over the hole. Turn it over and when it pops your finger off you will know it's on #1 Compression for sure. Lets look at the basics #1 is passengers side front cylinder, firing order is 15426378 rotating COUNTER Clockwise. If it's there, it should start. Good luck
I had a similar problem and after checking compression found that 2 of the cylinders had no compression. Pulled the valve covers and found gas mixed with the oil, pulled the head and found cracks in both the head and the cylinder, I'm guessing that water was left in the block and froze. Unfortunately I bought this without checking it out and after being told I could drive it to Chicago! I hope that isn't your problem but it might give you something to check.
I have done every check in the book for TDC, I got the cylinder correct and I have checked firing order and plug wire orientation a dozen times just hoping I got it wrong.. I am going to do compression next, I noticed the valve cover vent holes are gassing pretty bad so I am thinking sticky valves.. and I have no idea how many miles.. i have to just get it running for a friend
Also check to make sure the rotor is turning like it should ,429-460 are notorious for shearing the distributor gear pin.
1. If this is your first ford, I would suggest maybe you wired the plugs backwards. Easy way to tell is to "shake hands" with the vac. advance. Which ever side the advance is on, that hand sits next to it. Whichever way your fingers point is the direction it spins. I've seen em wired backwards, doesn't hurt to double check. 2. Backfire thru the carb, with or without fire, is bad timing first and carb needle and seat not seating and excess fuel second. Easiest way to solve this problem for sure, pull the valve covers and rotate the engine. All valves should open and close (compression) #1 plug removed and rotate to tdc and see with your own eyes the valves are closed and set (timing). Double check plug gap (ignition) and quality and squirt a shot of oil in each cylinder to seal the rings (compression). If points, file and regap. Maybe grab a new condensor. If electronic, it works or it doesn't... I just did these steps with a cushman 4 mechanics couldn't start. Plugs were over gapped, points were fried (ignition), fuel float was stuck (fuel-in this case, too much) timing was out. 1 hour and a handful of new parts and I drove it out of my garage.
Check that pin, I had to go to a .250" pin on my drag car. While you are there check the timing chain for slop
I know for a fact 100% that i have tdc correct, plug wires are in the correct order and in correct direction, the msd is old but the dist is new, plugs are new, i am on cyl #2 and i havent got above 70 on compression, seams low to me.. not only that, there is gas in the oil....
any idea on how to see if the valve is sticking? i measured the valve spring retainer height and its the same on the other valves, hand cranked it and watched the motion and it looks normal.. guess next would be to pull the head .. the fuel in the gas could be from turning it over all day..
How would turning it over a lot get gas in the oil? Not saying it couldn't --- just wondering how. I just picked up a 1969 429 Ford engine last week (with over 100K miles) and anticipate going thru some of the same troubleshooting that you are going thru now, Redfox.
might want to check and see if the valves are adjusted right.. if i remember right some of those old 429's had adjustable rockers.. the rocker nuts didnt just bottom out on all of them. i think c9 and dove heads might have been adjustable.. if you pull a valve cover off. look for screw in rocker studs..
A few squirts of motor oil in the cylinders with low compression will tell you if it's rings/ bore related (compression goes up when you re-test) or valves (compression stays poor)...
If the valve is either stuck or burned you should be able to see vapors coming up thru the valve stem guide. If you don't it could also be a blown head gasket.
I have been told that gas fills the cylinder and after sitting for a while it seeps past the rings even if they are good. Thanks I will try that.
Yup, thats what it sounds like. My 1970 429 had 180-185 lbs compression across all 8 cylinders. 60 to 70 pounds sounds too low. One thing to check though. If you haven't already, pull the timing cover and make sure the chain hasn't jumped time. The original fiber gears suck, wear down after about 100,000 miles and this can happen. Learned it the hard way on a customers car. Cost me a case of beer when I bet against the old timer who diagnosed it correctly.
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