help me out here if possible, i have limited knowledge of base/clear painting, i have done it, but no "schooling" so this is a little beyond me, "BUT" i was given this FOR FREE!!!!! :10 gallons of ---acrylic---- laquer paint, (brand spanking new!!!!) metallics: silver, gold, red, blue, purple, green, orange, and a black--4 quarts of medium reducer,for the laquer, 14 pints of metallic "overlay" (a clear with flake pre-mixed into it)silver, red, blue, green, etc, 2 gallons of hardener, and 5 gallons of acrylic laquer clear. all this was from a company that hasn't used laquer in over about 10 years, and it was all sealed in a warm environment. they were gonna throw it away and my friend asked if I wanted it so i said f-yes!!!! so how do i use it??? same as base coat?...probably NOT, i couldn't find any books at my library about acrylic laquer, so i figured someone here could "help me out" or is it NOT worth the hassle?? <-----------i doubt that!!!! H E L P!!! p/s: what is the difference between ---lacquer and -acrylic laquer---??????......in advance.....THANK YOU FOR THE HELP,...KEN
Lacquer paint is what the first hot rodders used...ever heard that old line: 40 coats of hand rubbed lacquer? Well, acrylic lacquer is almost the same stuff...just a bit more "refined"...it sprays no different than any other paint and it simply reduces with lacquer thinner...no catalyst is needed. Depending on how you spray it, you can either get a nice shine or a dull hazy one...either way, it polishes up nicely...no need for clear. Simply color sand and buff...however, you can use a clear over it should you desire... Great grab...it's still a good paint, but I believe most paint companies have phased it out. R-
thanks for the info! i recieved "medium acryli lacuer reducer" WITH my stuff, so if i thin it out with lacquer thinner, what is the reducer for?? i also recieved "acrylic lacquer HARDNER" i am confused?!?!? BUT the stuff ( after 20 minutes of mixing) looks BAD**** in the cans!!!!!!
Go back and check your labels again. Lacquer is mixed with "thinner" not reducer. No hardener is used with lacquer, none is made. Maybe you have an 'acrylic' paint, not lacquer. There are acrylic enamels that are 'reduced' and optionally can be mixed with hardener. They are perfectly acceptable paints, if used with hardener. Usual mix is 2 parts paint with 1 part reducer, and if hardener is used, 8 paint, 4 reducer, 1 hardener. Lacquer is another story. Reduce paint with 100 to 200% thinner. That's 1 part paint to 1 to 2 parts thinner. Many coats are needed for a good finish, 10 to 12 to start. In the old days we used to put on 6-8 coats, then let dry a few days, and color sand with 600 grit, and put on another 6-8, and maybe do it again. When done, let dry for a month, color sand flat with 600 and compound for a great finish. Lacquer looks GREAT but is not as chemical, and abrasion resistant as modern urethanes. It dulls out faster, needing more maintenance, and gets brittle as it ages, so it chips easily, and spiderwebs and cracks when really old. But done right, and maintained, it will last for many years, none the less. When using clear, mix the same as the color, no special mixes, or techniques needed. Metallics come out better with clear over them. Just watch you film thickness...don't put on too many coats. Lacquer clear, even acrylic, tends to yellow, and is more prone to cracking. Unless you live in a climate that never changes (like SoCal).
Been a few years since I used it. I lived in Houston then, very humid. Seems like most paint manufacturers had 4 different thinners, geared to tempature, drying times varied, plus you could get retarder to slow drying time for better gloss. I still have a Ditzler thermometer on my porch, temperature breaks were up to 50 degrees, 50 to 65, 65 to 85, and above 85 use slowest drying and maybe retarder. If use wrong thinner for temp will "blush", look flat, no shine. Can buff out but extra work, esp if using clear coat or if paint is metallic. Very forgiving, can sand out runs next day. Back in the 70s-80s I used lots of different brands, one was Marson (sp?). All thinner cans had same color labels, inc retarder. Was painting hood on a '68 Buick, funny green color, in a hurry, grabbed what I thought was thinner, sprayed several coats, noticed not drying. I had thinned paint with retarder, had to strip it all off, probably would have never dried. If you can fock it up, I've done it!! There are a lot better paints out there now. Depends on how long you plan on keeping the car & what you want. Lacquer will raise other paints & some primers. Usually best to strip to bare metal & start over but lots of time good sealer will work.
also it says in the instructions: ACRYLANE!! a type of paint??!! mix acrylane with reducer and hardner. no paint shops in town know anything about this, and the head guy from the company where my friend got this has NO friggin' idea about it!! i guess i'll just go out an EXPIRIMENT!!! wish me luck! thanks for the help...ken
ahh, that's why dupont and house of color are glad laquer is gone, cause you didn't have to buy a catalyst and expensive reducer for it.... most people spend more on paint now then what the kids in the 50's spent on their whole car.... this*****s now
acrylane? I dont know what that is..............but it sounds like you got yourself some acrylic urethane dude.......i'm pretty sure does it actually say acrylic lacquer on the can? hardners? catalysts? reducer? obviously not lacquer.......
That's boat paint made by a company called Furane... This is not something you want to start spraying around indiscriminately, like any other iso-cyanate you better use an external air source with your respirator. Any paint product that has been sitting this long will probably be degraded if not unusable, I'd check it out carefully before spraying anything of value...
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