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3.0 Mercury marine question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by autocartodd, Nov 6, 2009.

  1. jersey greaser
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 216

    jersey greaser
    Member

    look on the flange by the distributor for the stamped in date build code numbers you need.

    email me and i'll try my best to help you out with what lance and i dug up to build his
     
  2. jersey greaser
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 216

    jersey greaser
    Member


    most likly they are, but should be the 6 port model, while the 80's marine used the 8 port head there are several 8 port heads and the good one started life in 2004.it has smaller but raised port heights that flow right straight down to the valve to aid emissions and use mpfi.

    pease take in mind while the 181 has a 4.00 inch bore it has a 3.599 stroke.the piston pin location and con rods don't match a small block. for jersey suedes motor i used flat pistons from a fork lift.volvo marine motor as these flat tops jump the stock compression to 9.5 from the 8.25 the mercruiser had at that time.

    here is where we got the rebuild kit with the flat top piston option.
    http://greenbaypartsworld.com/marineenginekits.htm
    and here is where we got the electronic ignition kit.

    http://www.michiganmotorz.com/delco-voyager-marine-electronic-distributor-p-120.html

    and this fork lift junk yard in atlanta GA helped with other parts which in the end proved we are better off starting with a fork lift motor and swaping out the cam shaft with the marine one.
    http://www.atlantaliftruck.com/index.php
     
  3. Muddi1
    Joined: Aug 22, 2008
    Posts: 17

    Muddi1
    Member
    from Washington

    The engine I have actually already has a rear sump and pan, I am wonderign why this might be? Originally it was installed as the main powerplant in a sailboat. Thank you all for your responses, I have been very busy, and collecting parts for my build, it is starting to come together and I will keep everyone posted!!

    Here are a few pic's of the engine before I started removing the boat stuff and a look at the lifters/inside of the valve cover just after it was removed, this engine is VERY clean inside. The oil I drained even looked brand new and I was told it sat under the bench where I retrieved it from for about 12 years.

    I will of course go through and do a pre-start oil priming and such but other than that not much more.

    What have you guys used for a cooiling system, I.E. water outlet?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 30, 2010
  4. Model A Vette
    Joined: Mar 8, 2002
    Posts: 1,075

    Model A Vette
    Member

    The early engines (153) used the same front cover, water pump and water outlet as the 194-250 series 6 cyl engines.
     
  5. jersey greaser
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 216

    jersey greaser
    Member

    looks like it a good one .it is for sure a early model and being a sail boat aux motor it should have low hours.

    give the fork lift place i posted above a call for the out let houseing, the top stat cover any one from a small block v8 will work, best one would be a straight up after market one. pulley wise reuse what you have, the alternator bracket you can reuse the marine. bell houseing small block, clutch if you go stick depends on the trans you will use.the stock fly wheel will take up to a 10.5 ?? inch
    give that old destributor the heave hoo and go with the electronic kit from above.

    your problem will be makeing a intake /exhuast as this is a custom build item. take a look atthis thread,http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377527,
    lance and i just finished his a bone pickup powered by a 181 3.0 marine motor, we just made it hotter running
     
  6. Muddi1
    Joined: Aug 22, 2008
    Posts: 17

    Muddi1
    Member
    from Washington

    Very Nice, Thank you Jersey,

    I will be looking into getting those few pieces that I can order and begin working on my intake, I was thinking about using 3/16 mild steel plate as I can get it in 12"x 24" for $3.50 a pop and I have a small 110 wire feed that I can weld it with.

    I am also acquiring the tube for my chassis at the same time, I plan on using 3 x 2 box. I have seen 3 x 1 1/2 used but do not understand what the small difference would be? Price is only $3 difference per 20 ft. stick and the weight is not very substancial either.

    Thank you again, I will keep you all posted!!
     

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