Picked up a 66 Fury a little over a year ago to learn on and with boards like these, local shops and some guys in my unit she was running great till around October. Did plugs wires rotor cap battery cables alternator and a pile else to this little poly block since pretty much stealing it off a buddy of mine before he moved. Got the car running again but whenever I put it in gear it stalls out on me. Any help would be great.
Probably just a vacuum leak. Does it does completely die and won't move or will it restart and drive. You better do an intro before you get attacked
Make a video of it running, and dying when you put it in gear. Have a friend film while you "drive". There are a lot of things that could be causing this symptom...lots of parts in the ignition, the carb, as mentioned a vacuum leak, etc.
I just did my intro, one of the problems i know im having is the carb itself. I rebuilt the original 2bbl last spring with no issues and she ran fine. Didnt change points, i think thats about the only thing motor wise i havent done yet. The carb itself has some known issues, the plunger sticks and the vacuum choke is pretty much non existent at this point. Its either rev it real high and dive across the fender to flip the carb manually or get someone else to start her while i flip it
Sounds like you need to try to get the choke squared away first. If it's not working right, then it won't have the fast idle speed and enrichment that's needed when you put the car in gear when it's cold out.
Had similar issue when building my '32.Engine would idle all day and as soon as I would put it in gear it would stall,problem I had was the torque converter went bad. Installed a new one,been fin for the past 18 years.Good luck....Rich
I have a new 2bbl Holley and a local guy machining an adapter for me to mate the poly and the carb. I havent tried moving the car until it warmed up completely and adjusted choke speed and the regular idle speed. Issue is keeping her running long enough to get to the shop. I just dont know if i should be looking somewhere else while looking at the carb too if that makes sense
Definitely check the points, the point gap being wrong will cause interesting problems. Usually it helps to raise the idle speed a bit, and richen the idle mixture. Check the ignition timing after you mess with the points, too.
You will love the Holley on that engine. I had that same setup on a Sport Fury 25 years ago. Back then, you could still BUY the adapter. Check for vacuum leaks, esp. the big hose to the PCV valve. That engine should idle down to around 400rpm before it stalls. If you can't get the idle that low, chances are you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. I remember the advance mechanism in my distributor was all rusted up from sitting. Shouldn't cause the problem you are having, but it won't run right if it's not working. OH, and BE SURE to get the transmission kickdown linkage hooked up and adjusted correctly when you swap carbs. On that trans, the linkage also controls shift pressure, and the trans will kill itself in short order if you let it upshift when you've got the hammer down.
If it stalls when cold, check if heat riser valve is free,next while running put your fingers around the choke well on the intake manifold it should get hot .If you can keep your fingers there more than a minute the choke cross over in the manifold is blocked w/ carbon (common problem w/short trip driver on early mopars) It might be why your choke is disconnected, it wont open if the crossover is blocked!
That is what i was looking for .. Thanks alot .. Its funny i signed up for two other model specific forums and have gotten the best response, read only response, from this board .. im off to the parts store again .. thanks again for the tip about the trans cable ..
Before you change the carb. make sure all else is working properly .The factory carb. is hard to beat ,and you will have linkage issues w/ a substitute. Remember 2% of the time the carb. is the problem and 95% of the time its the first to be replaced!
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