I'd like to have the right sizes to build an engine, heads/valves(yes I know I need a dial indicator and a spring height gauge would be nice), and transmission. I can get a deal on some staretts used for $10 0-1,1-2" $20 2-3, 3-4" $35 4-5, 5-6" Seems like I should be OK with 0-1, 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4. But maybe I'll want a 4-5" for measuring pistons? What do you think? I also see a set of mitutoyo for $150 including a dial indicator, but no 4-5 or 5-6" mic. Or is this just stuff I'm wasting my money on and I'll never use anyhow? Truthfully I anticipate needing a dial indicator and valve height gauge in the near future more than the others, but maybe its too good a deal to p*** up? Thanks guys
Get the complete 0." to 6." set.. I'm sure you'll use the 5.-6." someday for something... I got calipers that are 0.- 4." 0.- 6." 0.- 8." and 0- 12" I used those all the time at work.. A couple of mag bases and indicators would be cool also!
I use my 0-1 and 1-2 the most, but I am making stuff. I almost never use the 5-6. But when I need it it's good to have. I bought my mikes in 65. They stick with you forever. Calipers kind of get worn out. If they are good mikes and you may be doing fab work in the future I would call it a good investment. You can always sell them if necessary
It the Starrett micrometers are in really good shape I'd go for them. make sure that they have the pins to calibrate them with them though. The biggest problem you might run into with a used micrometer is that they may have been mistreated especially if they were used in a school shop cl***. The prices sound fair but I'd check prices online to make sure what the average going price was. I don't think you would get much use out of the 5 to 6 inch mike though. At least not for engine work unless you get into bigger diesel engines. I've got a Starrett dial indicator that I don't use often but it sure is nice to have when I do want to use it. In the past 20 years I've probably used it to check the runout in disk brake rotors more than any other use as I haven't built a lot of engines in that period. I picked up a Harbor Freight digital caliper a while back and while it is pretty inexpensive I find myself using it all the time out in the garage to check things that I don't really need a micrometer for.
You don't really need any of them to rebuild an engine (***uming you have a machine shop do the machine work). With a bit of experience, you can tell whether or not the parts need to be machined by looking at them and feeling the wear, and you can check bearing clearances with plastigage to make sure everything is going together right. But you still oughta buy all that Starrett stuff just because. If you're going to be working in an automotive machine shop, then you'll need the full set, plus dial bore gages for cylinders and valve guides, and a few other things.
One thing to remember, There should be a Standard ( a precision piece of steel) included when you buy that mike. If you have that you can check the calibration anytime you want. Now if it doesn't have one you can go to someone who does and use theirs to check but it's better to have your own. If they don't have this the price should reflect that also. I personally have a few Mic's but use a digital calipers most of the time.
Yeah! Make sure those standards are included with the mics!! There should 5 of those for a 0.- 6." micrometer set...
I have older Lufkin and Starett mikes that are out of adjustment and no longer smooth. I bought some carbide faced Chinese mikes that checked out well on my standards and are used often. They can be had so cheap that I leave them in the barn where theft is more likely with my cheap tool set which is also used often. If you are not a tool snob and want to simply measure parts then those Chinese instruments can be useful. When it is your job, then higher quality tools are worth the extra money. Good Luck: Fred A
I'm a machinist and moldmaker by trade, and I've gotten by just fine for 13 years with just a 1"-3" set of mikes, but most shops I work at have the larger ones so I haven't needed them...I'll be ordering a new 1"-6" set soon for my new job, and taking my old Starret set home to use in my home shop...as far as dial indicators go, even if you don't use it often spend the money for a good brand like Federal, Starret, Yuasa or Brown & Sharpe so that it's actually usable for your lifetime...cheaper dial indicators tend to start sticking and reading funny after sitting for awhile...get a good mini mag base and a standard adjustable post style mag base and you're set...
a few years ago i got a almost new set of central tools mics in case for a very good price, and they are very accurate. not central like hf but out of RI i believe. i have quite a few starrett mics too. i might suggest getting the kind that have ratcheting end you can set and get consistent reading withou varience due to pressure. really old ones are cool but i like that feature. funny i use my dial ind more than my mics. good luck whatever you get.
Starrett is never wasting money. I have a set of 6 that goes 0-6. I haven't used all of them, but I'm sure I will eventually.
Its not so much IF you'll use it. Its the one time you NEED it and its right there to hand that makes it worth buying. Better than standing there cursing like a trooper.
I used the mics at work a lot for when I was machining prototype cast iron diffies.. I had to hold a tolerance of +- .0002" on a CNC lathe... Fun work!
I have a Starret 0-1, a dial indicator, and a good caliper, and that seems to be adequate for me. I do have, however, a 0" to 6" inside mic setup that is useful for measuring bores and cylinder taper etc. I have done a bunch of used engines, and you would be surprised at how many engines can be brought back with a hone job and a set of rings.
Thank you for the help, fellas! After reading all your responses, I think that without the standards, or boxes, this set may not be such a great deal. It's a big help to hear from people with experience what is important and what's not. I never would have thought about the standards with the mics on my own. Sure, I could use a buddys to calibrate them, but what a PITA, and if I don't trust them, why bother using a micrometer?
I have been building engines for 40 some odd years and the most popular Mic i use is a 1.5 to 2.5 - 2.5 to 3.5 - 3to 4 and 4to5 then a dial bore gauge.
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