I searched. Posted in another thread that got buried. This should apply a to all makes not just studebaker engines like the other thread was ***led. I have an edmunds 2x2 intake for a stude. I have a pair of identical stromberg ww's for it. My question is: Did you have to do any modifications to one of the ww's like people do to the Rochester's? I know on other 2x3 Rochester applications they change out the base plates for ones that have the idle circuit omitted. These bases also seal better and are completely closed at idle. I only know this b/c I saw an article in Hot Rod this month! What's everyone's experience with stromberg ww's and how are you setting them up. Are you plugging the idle circuit on one? What jets are you running? I read somewhere .043's work good. I'm guessing people are gutting the choke's on one of them? Do you have to plug the air horn? What else is modified? Also, is the standard method to tune a 2x2, to block off one mounting plates and tune w/ just one carb. Then add the secondary carb and tune from there? What is the secondary carb cut in? I read it should begin to open when the primary is open at about 40%. Thanks in advance.
you're over thinking it. I run a Stu-V 2X2 with stromberg WW's, straight linkage with no carb modifications. Chokes are wide open. I belive the jets are .049's
On a 2x2 setup, would highly suggest solid linkage; both carburetors operate simultaneously. Idle on both. (If needed) choke on both. Stromberg WW's are EXCELLENT (opinion) carburetors. Their only weak point is the aluminum throttle bodies. However, any competent carburetor rebuilder will replace the worn shafts AND install bushings at the first rebuild. Then the carbs are "bulletproof". Jon.
Hi, I ran a pair of NOS WW strombergs (mopar slant six replaments carbs) on a French military Flathead with no mods. Worked well. The bowl holddown "spring" is very stupid. It can come loose if you touch/hit accidentally the carb with a wrench or another tool. My friend who bought the car replaced them with "springs" from pinball machine or similar LOUD
Thanks. Running them like they are makes it easy. I figured running them solid linkage would over fuel.
Oh, I totally agree. And for the love of Pete, replace the worn shafts and install the bushings like Jon said. On any multi-carb setup, leaking air is your enemy. More than one guy has forsaken multicarb setups, and dismissed them as "voodoo", all because of leaking air. ~Jason
I have got 3 of them in my '34, recently I changed the main jets (Simular to the new Brittish 97 carb) due to a change for a Thumpr cam. A bit of a problem are the powervalves due to a lack of vacuum they open pretty fast, so with the help of a vacuumcleaner (don't ask...) I cut the springs and now they open when I want them to open. I tried to get the primary jets and the powervalves on the net but no luck so far. It is running pretty rich in the low RPm's. But I found out that I had a 409 sixpack laying around so I try that one out and tune it a bit. Rochester jets are a bit easier.
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