Stovebolt trouble?!?!

1957 235, I just replaced distributer vacuum advance electronic points cap and wiring harness, when timing it I found myself playing chase with the idle and timing notch once I found an ok place to time it runs a bit choppy and if I step on the throttle it will just about die spit then level out I can get the elms up if I tap the throttle getley and most Likely it will backfire out the carb. 153624 top dead center is all good. Im at a loss and pretty frustrated, is it my carb or a vacuum leak

 

Did it run the same before you changed things?

 

Honestly it's never run quite right that's why I replaced everythin, never this bad though,

 

I'd probably start with a compression check to see where your'e at mechanically and then maybe try adjusting the valves (***uming their mechanical). You could put a vacuum gauge on it as well to give you some idea what is going on. Sharp spikes could mean a leaky or unseated intake valve, etc.

 

Check to see how much slop there is in the timing gears. See how much you can turn the crank back and forth before the rotor moves.

 

Put a vacuum gauge on it, see what that tells you,
Does the vacuum line that controls advance pull vacuum ?
Does your accelerator pump squirter work, could be carb issues...

 

I just checked my books and Chevy 6s had hydraulics back to 1950. Again a compression test may keep you from running in circles. Since it ran bad from the start though, it could be as simple as a carb rebuild/ vacuum leak.

 

I appreciate the info I'm going to start by rebuilding the carb and if it still gives me trouble I'll play doctor with it,

 

Try rebuilding the carb, a kit is reasonably priced and the shop manual for waht you've got should walk through it. I think my kit came with directions although I can't remember. I'd also double check your vac*** line for leaks. Those came with hardline running from the advance to the carb. Is this what you're using? I'd also make sure that you have the distributor tightened down. It sounds obvious but that can cause similar problems. My 235 had solid lifters in it and when they needed adjusting it would back fire when I let off it but not like what your describing...
Good Luck,
Seth

 

Try retarding the timing a few degrees. Stovebolts don't like much advance, they shake and shudder and spit back with just a tad too much lead.

 

some of them did...some didn't. Pays to check if the engine you're working on has hydraulics or not before adjusting them..