My latest project involves a '65 Dodge Polara that I picked up for next to nothing. The problem is it does not have a ***le. I would like to have the final project ***led so it can be driven! I would rather not go the bonded ***le route. I have been told that there is some junk yard in the Houston area that sells ***les off junked cars for just such a situation. Does anyone know about this? And who I can contact?
Do it right have your numbers checked .. You could lose the car after all the work on a stolen car whichever numbers you use ..
I just had to do a bonded ***le on my '64 Imperial. What a PITA!!! The DMV said I needed a bond for $8575!!! the car is not worth that! Then after I got the bond for $190, they made me pay tax on that amount ($8575)......which to me seemed like B.S. since I got the car in a trade. It was an expensive lesson to buy a car with a good ***le.
The only I would use the ***le off a junk car is if I personally cut it up myself. On the, well I took two and made one theory except you don't use a whole lot of one of them. Bonded ***les are a bit of a h***le but they are legal and the car is legal. Plus it'd 99.9% doubtful that anyone would show up with the actual original ***le for the car in the next three years and lay claim to it. Beats the hell out of getting pulled over with a bogus ***le and registration and having the car impounded.
I will check the VIN, but I do not think the past few owners ever put the car in their name and the original ***le is lost! Doing it right is always the best way, but a bonded ***le is NOT the way.
Bonded ***le may be the ONLY way to do it right. I got a bonded ***le on my '50 sedan delivery. Ended up costing me about $350 but its all legal and after the 3 years are up I will have a real ***le to my car. Using junk car ***les are asking for trouble. Even if you get the vin plate with the junk ***le a sharp officer can tell that the vin plate has been changed. Not to mention its illegal to change them. Bonded ***le is Legal.
Sure legal but what do guys who build custom cars or junk rods do? I have seen rods that were made up of several different cars, none of which looked like the finished rod once it was running. If you are pulled over in a heavy-modified rod and your ***le shows the car to be a something the cop knows... he would still have to seach for a VIN.!
Better do it right or with legal guidance. I had a similar situation that seemed impossible to get around. It took asking several people, used car lots, lawyers until I was directed to another lawyer who could help. Cost me 325 to him. Got the calls and info from him, where to go, who to see. It was so simple and easy with the right guys help. There are lots of catches that are brick walls. He cut a nice door in everyone. GET THE ***LE BEFORE YOU START THE WORK!
Not sure if this works in your state or not. I have applied for a "Lost" ***le before. it takes about 10 to 14 days (in my state) and if everything checks out..you will get it in the mail in another 7 to 10 days. here we call it the Secretary of State..there it might be Motor Vehicle records ot DMV..worth a shot..eh?
I agree with those telling you to go the legal route. Unfortunately the DMV's around the country are making that harder to do! Here in Nebraska they will no longer issue a bonded ***le. Now "***embled vehicle" ***les are what they give out, but the car has to be finished before one will be issued (running, complete.....). Nebraska has also recently created a DMV Fraud Unit. Their main role is to find people avoiding paying sales tax, but they are also focusing on ***le fraud cases. I personally will never buy a car again that doesnt have a ***le with it. Too many headaches, and too many issues that can come up later if you dont have it right to begin with. If you can go the bonded route it might be your best bet.
the way its done in az is they contact who ever is listed as owning the car on the ***le.. the only way it will get taken is if its stolen, the dmv told me that the law looks at it this way.. if your trying to get the car back.. why did you (registered owner) sell it / give it away / loose it in the first place. and keep the ***le. having the ***le in your name isn't the be all and end all.
That's pretty much a fact. Also included is any "bill of sale only states" like alabama. Pretty much every Pre 1948 ***le transfer is scrutinized to the tee. I think some guys are getting manditory vehicle inspections if they try to register a pre-48 car. Some of the guys on here are saying that "that's why I always get the ***le up front before I start a project." Well... what's happening is that you may have a ***le that was good 5 years ago because it matched your frame... but now if the car is in pieces or incomplete appearing... they'll tell you your good ***le is no longer good and they make you go through this bonded ***le process. The really crazy thing is even if you build a street rod from all aftermarket parts, they're requiring you to go thru the bonded ***le process. EVEN IF YOU HAVE EVERY RECIEPT! It's all about the money. I'd be more accepting of the process and loosing a good chunk of change to get a legit ***le IF they didn't string it out over the course of a year. Take my money but at least expedite the process.
Louisiana DMV won't even honor a "Bill Of Sale". Because it is and always was a ***le state, you gotta have a ***le. That said, there are a couple of ways to ***le abandoned or antique vehicles legally in Louisiana provided they are at least 25 years old. Bob
I always get a ***le before I start building a car. I like bonded ***les, very safe and very legal. I use Lawrence ***le Service out of Taylor, TX, www.lawrenceauto***le.com. Ken is retired from DMV, knows his stuff. I have had him do several for me, makes it easy. That way I don't have to worry about someone coming back on a car I sold demanding their money back when the car is seized or impounded.
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