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Gas welding aluminum???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kevin Lee, Dec 3, 2010.

  1. hillbilly4008
    Joined: Feb 13, 2009
    Posts: 3,099

    hillbilly4008
    Member
    from Rome NY

    I use a Prince spool gun on my Lincoln welder. It works fine for 1/8 and heavier. I built a roof rack for my Scout using 16ga. tubing, i would not reccomend using a MIG for material that light. I didnt get the welder dialed in untill my last welds.

    Also note, aluminum MIG welding using a spool gun is not like MIG welding steel. Hold the gun at a 15* angle pushing the weld rather than dragging it.

    Hope this helps
     
  2. newfalconowner
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 813

    newfalconowner
    Member
    from NS Canada

    there on sale here,, pretty cheap,, i jsut might pick one up after xmas and give it a shot. thanx.. be worth it to try and build an intake?
     
  3. Pete1
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,262

    Pete1
    Member
    from Wa.

    The whole works has pretty well been covered here.
    Flux coated rod.
    Super clean area to be welded.
    Cobalt lenses.
    Carburizing oxy acetelyne flame.

    No one mentioned using hydrogen instead of acetelyne.
    It burns with a MUCH cleaner flame and thus does not contaminate
    the puddle as much. It was used in commercial gas welding aluminum
    almost exclusively in the "olden dayz".

    I spent a couple years welding 4 inch irigation pipe over log yards to
    keep them cool in the summer..You get pretty catty at it after awhile.
    You don't dare "goober" for fear of starting a fire.

    Oh, one other thing. If you build something like a race car nose that you are
    going to have to hammer weld, gas welding works a whole lot better than tig.
    The welds will stand a lot more hammering without annealing.
     
  4. shawnspeed
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 165

    shawnspeed
    Member
    from Attica Mi

    The only thing I would add...you need lots of tacks & a good fit for a good gas weld ...Ron taught me that...And the dillion/henrob is nice , but not near as nice to have as the low pressure smith regulators....I would skip the henrob & get the regulators first, and use new , proper size tips in my standard torch(I have a dockman ) and run 2-3psi. on 16 ga 3003...works just fine...
     
  5. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Was wondering when hydrogen was gonna come up. Thats how I was taught to do it years ago. Used the cobalt blue lens too, never had any eye problems because of it, but didnt do it that often.
     
  6. hoggyrubber
    Joined: Aug 30, 2008
    Posts: 572

    hoggyrubber
    Member

    i have tried a couple of times and it did not turn out good. i prob need to clean better. i used the coated rod from a welding supply. the weld in that video was pretty impressive.
     
  7. hillbilly4008
    Joined: Feb 13, 2009
    Posts: 3,099

    hillbilly4008
    Member
    from Rome NY

  8. Frankie Von Dell
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 45

    Frankie Von Dell
    Member

    Just figured this out today at school! First step, is getting a pair of goggles for aluminum torch welding, there is a guy who came up with the design...they are like almost $150...pretty steep but it really makes the difference of seeing the puddle. I tried it out with a shield and regular goggles just to tell the difference, its worlds apart. Second, for your settings you really want to starve the acetylene..set at about 2 pounds, oxy at 5. When you are setting your flame you want the acetylene soft with a lot of soot still coming off of your flame, mix the oxy in and you don't really need the cone to be as close to the tip as if you were welding steel. Slightly heat the panel, (this process is similar to tinning before you lead) brush on your flux, then lightly wave the torch over your flux, you want the flux to look like a glazed donut that has been sitting out for a coupla days. If your flux blows off too much you probably got the aluminum too hot and it didn't adhere right, you will know because your rod will not penetrate at all, it will just sit on the surface while you continue to blow holes. From there, its pretty much the same as steel only you travel faster and dip your rod in the puddle much more. You can literally feel the rod traveling through the metal to the other side, so the only thing keeping you from blowing holes is the continual dip of the cooler rod into the puddle. Hope my 2 cents helps!
     
  9. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    i hear its better for people who are making full panels(ie if you made a belly tank) because it anneals the metal before you start forming it and metal finishing.
     
  10. customcory
    Joined: Apr 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,831

    customcory
    Member

    You need some of these to gas weld aluminum. I have my set on the cl***ifieds:rolleyes: you see here. I never had the time to devote to gas welding aluminum even though I did enough to know I needed a LOT of practice to get it right. These colbalt blue gl***es I ordered from somebody back in the 8o's, made it real easy to see what was going on.

    blue.jpg
     
  11. Flatheadguy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,037

    Flatheadguy
    Member

    Memory isn't what it was, but cobalt lenses are what I...we...used to gas weld aluminum. And, as a side bit of advice if attempting to gas weld it, by the time you SEE the puddle, it's too late. Here's the tricky part.....just before you see the puddle, move the flame and dip.
    Practice, practice.....oh, yeah, and patience.
     

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