This is more of a question for my dad. He has got a '52 Chevy 3100. He has a complete original '78 Nova clip with a running 250 6 cyl still sitting in the clip. He has some questions regarding installing this complete clip. He is mainly concerned with placement of the radiator (fore or aft core support) and any other issues that may arise. Has anyone done anything similiar? Is the 194, 230, 250, 292 family any larger of an engine externally than the 216, 235, 261 family? Would it be easier to install this 250 into the original frame/mounts vs. using the Nova clip? Any input greatly appreciated.
If I was doin' it, I wouldn't clip it...the original steering/suspension is fine, with some servicing. If you want the truck lower, use a dropped axle. Lots less work/money/time than installing a clip. IMO, cooler too...original stuff. Since you're using a six, you'll have no clearence issues with the original steering. I'm not sure about length of the engine...wouldn't be hard to measure from rear of valve-cover to front of fan. I doubt there'd be a problem. If you just have to clip it, build a jig for placement of the radiator-support. Bolt a plate to the original location, then mount 3-4 plates to strategic locations on the firewall. Connect the plate at the support-mount to the plates on the firewall with steel rod or tubing. Now unbolt it, and set it aside in a safe place. Use this jig to find the original location of your radiator-support when positioning your clip. Good luck.
I think the water pump length is another concern of his. Ultimately he doesn't want to have to move the radiator in front of the core support. I've been telling him that I wouldn't clip it either but you know how those grey-beards can be sometimes......with their disc brakes, IFS, power windows and air conditioning..... I at least talked him into making it a traditional 50's-60's "looking" ride. But things like Bias ply tires.....fagetaboutit!!
Greg, in my humble opinion, the MOST critical part is placement of the radiator support. EVERYTHING from the firewall forward hinges on the proper placement of the support. The inner fender panels bolt up to it, the fenders bolt to them, the hood alignment depends on how the fenders are hung. The upper and lower baffles hang on it, as does the grille. It goes on and on! I put a '62 235 in my '50 and it was a perfect fit except for the water pump, the shaft of which was too long. Solution was to buy a "short shaft" water pump, which I bought from Jim Carter. I agree with Rickybop about keeping the original straight axle front end. You can buy a disc brake kit for them if you so desire (you may not be able to use original wheels if you do without spacers). Good gas shocks are still available at most FLAPS for the truck, and Diamondback makes some pretty awesome wide white radials for those bias ply tires you eluded to. Just my 3 cents worth (adjusted for inflation!) Ken
He also just stumbled upon a 261 for next to nothing. Would you recommend that over the 250? Do you have any idea on the water pump on the 250? Thank you so much for the input.
Greg, although I've never run a 261 in any vehicle, from what I've read, you can't get a better inline 6 than that! I had a '63 chevy w/ a 230 in it, which is a wimpier version of the 250 and it was OK, but not a barn burner! It is my understanding that the 230-250 block were thin wall and more subject to failure. I have no clue about the overall length of either engine and whether or not they will fit with or without mods to the water pump. Sorry! You might want to post your question on one or both of the following forums. www.classicparts.com or www.stovebolt.com Both sites have several guys that have done that and can tell you the pros and cons of doing it! Best of luck to you and your dad on your project! Ken
I'm not a believer in clips, usually. the later trucks seem to be a good fit, but It always seems like something was sacrificed. There is one guy local who measured once, cut twice, and then after it was all together wired, plumbed, he goes to drop the radiator in and the motor is 5"! FIVE INCHES ! too far forward. I'm bolting in a Jag front suspension, and its a common swap that leaves the frame, sheet metal alone. You can "adapt" the chevy 6 to the Jag six mounts. I bet it would be slick. and if it doesn't work, you still have an intact frame to cut off, if you choose.
...that clip is too wide, the 250 will fit without moving radiator , just push the six back close to the firewall. 68-74 Nova is a good clip for AD's
Does anyone out there know where I might buy a dropped axle for an AD truck? I have a 1953 Chevrolet 5 window 1 ton (8 bolt wheels) long box that I want to lower as much as possible. The truck is in really great shape, still in original paint and I want to lower it without cutting anything so that it can always be put back to stock again later I would be OK with a dropped axle for a 3/4 or 1/2 ton if I can't locate a dropped axle for a 1 Ton. I would also be OK cutting a stock axle if anyone has a spare, but Like I said I don't wan t to cut any of the original parts of this truck because its in such nice shape. Any help or info is appreciated.
Those clip projects look GREAT in the car mags, but turn into a serious bag of snakes when it comes time to cut metal. My choice would be to rebuid the stock frontend and go with the 250 by moving the radiator. Tabs for the rad would be easier to do. Have you checked the measurements of a mid 70s C-10 or an 80s era S-10? I haven't kept up with the hobby for the past few years, but there was an aftermarket manufacturer that designed and assembled an independent front suspension kit for the 1947 thru 1953 Chevy / GMCs. They weren't cheap, but sure saved on the agrivation.
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