wireing .... yuck

I started running the wires on Slick this weekend. It was the first time I had used a Painless Kit. It's not bad.... but I won't again. I wish I had stuck to Centeck. The instructions pretty much ****.

And to make it more fun I ordered the kit with dash key and non GM column turn signal switch. You know what the instructions tell me? Cut the plugs off. Wow why didn't I think of that? And of course now I get to figure out what wires from the Kit connect with the aftermarket turn signal switch.

Any body know what the L and P stands for on a flasher?

Another funny thing I though was wrong was Painless does not wire a + wire from the Coil to the I of the starter. I want to start with a full 12 volts so I put it in.

Still not sure about the 50 amp MAXI fuse on the ALT lead either. I mean if you blow that half way between here and there, where you get a new one? If you have a burn away wire at least you can cut/splice and get home.

Oh well, back to work

 

sounds like fun!

as for the "L" and "P" on the flasher,i think it's for "load" and "power".

 

My thought is: KITS ****

As do expensive pre-made looms

The IS always some kindda glitch.

It's better to buy wire ends fuse box and such and lay it out. Do it yourself

When I was a kid a buddy of mine was a MIT grad and teacher. He showed me what to do in a simple and reasonable way.

Please guys don't let it scare you.

It's easy to wire yourself. You get what you want where you want and if there's a problem you'll know how to fix it

 

I am currently wiring my car with an EZ harness. Although a bit intimidated at first, I found once I really got into it, it became more "do-able". The cool thing is that I just sat there and looked at the manual long enough before actually starting that I was able to plan where to run each wire. I cut all but the last few zip ties off and put the wires where I wanted them.

I have yet to wire the column and some dash wiring, but it's taking shape.
Keep at it...after awhile, it almost becomes fun in a sick kinda way!

Greg

 

Plumbing...****s.
Ya not only have to route all of it ya have to make it not leak, anywhere!

Wiring is as easy as hanging clothes on a clothes line.
(You do have a "traditional" clothes line to hang your "traditional" cuffed jeans on, dont ya?)
Wiring just has to go from here to there and not bounce around and rub up against other wires or grounds. Piece O-cake!


Oh, and ditto what Bluto said....

 

Agreed on the "Painless" instructions.

As for the Maxi-Fuse. Most decent auto parts stores carry them now. Just buy one with the same amperage as the one in your kit and carry it with you in the car. Replacing a blown fuse is a lot easier than splicing in new wire.

 

I am in the same position. I need to wire up the rest of my car. The engine harness has already been done (it runs and drives, just no wiring for anything else, no fuse panel) so I need to put in a fuse panel, wire the lights, gauges etc. I'm not sure where to start. I am willing to do it from scratch, but as much as you guys say don't sweat it... I'm sweating it!

What wire do I need (gauge and color)

What kind of connectors?

Maxi-fuse? My buddy said I probably needed one. What is it and where does it go?

Where should I put the panel in a 36 Ford? I know most panels are on the drivers side under the dash, but is that really the best place for it?

Should I buy just buy a book?

 

This book has been a big help for me.

 

I am still building my car but the wiring has been in the back of my mind the whole time and i have welded tubing into the frame and body to run the wires in so i never have to worry about any thing rubbing on them and i wont see any going to the head lights or other parts screwed to the frame

 

If you want to wire a real hotrod, or custom, get a copy of
Tex Smith's "How to do ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS" by Skip Readio (aka DeSoto on the HAMB)

It tells you in plain New England English how each system works, why it works and how to install it. How to do all of it, (except internal regulator GM Alternators, and you can pick that up here.)

 

L is for load - p is the pilot light

 

I hear ya, that's one reason I've been using the AMerican Autowire kits.....although they can be complicated to...but they are 'engineered' correctly.

 

I bought a GearHead Wiring harness. Paid 115.00 for it on Ebay. The only instructions is that very book at least the last 10 pages or so is for the exact harness I bought. I've only just started. Mounted my fuse box and pulled the wires to the front. Hopefully mine will come togeather. Does anyone know what the large red wire goes to? The wire is about 3 foot long and not connected to the harness.

 

My son a I just had a discussion about wiring as he is looking to rewire his 41 after a wiring butcher did it. You have to take the time (no rush job) to plan where everything goes in the neatest way. And take the time during installation. And don't scrimp on the lengths. That's the only way as far as I am concerned. If it takes a week, so be it, longer no problem. It will turn out better in the long run. This goes for either a kit or do it yourself. Ive wired four cars, with kits and without, and it takes me forever but I never had a problem with it afterwards and it looks great if I can pat myself on the back.