Removing a U-Joint from a Driveshat

Can anyone tell me how to remove a U-Joint from a driveshaft? I'm switching from a 4" diameter shaft to a 3"diameter shaft but I need the yoke to put on the 3" shaft. They are both Ford driveshafts as far as I know.
Thanks
Chemin

 

Pop out any retaining rings on the outside of the u-joint cap. Use 2 sockets and preferably a vise...a smaller one to push through and a larger one to push into. If you don't have a large enough vise, you can drive it through this way also, but a vise make's it easy.

 

hey Chemin,, there many ways, sockets and a hammer ,, sockets and vise .. or there is a u-joint press you can use....BTY dont clamp drive shaft tube in vise . Good Luck jim

 

that is going to have to be pressed out from one side to the other like most U joints. If you dont know how to press it out google " pressing u joints" and you will find good instructions. How new is it??? it should have some split ring retainers on the inside of the caps that you will have to pop off before you can press it out. If it is fairly new it might be like the gm's that have a melted wax type retainer inside the steel, if so heat it up like a torch and it will crawl out like snake.

 

damn you guys are fast when i started posting no one had replied and now im #3

 

Looks like you may have gotten the retaining rings out by the looks of the pic. That is the key though, if you don't take those out with pliers, the center of the u-joint won't press out.

 

Thanks for the responses.
My vise doesn't open wide enough for sockets but I'll try a nut and a short piece of pipe.
Jim, the driveshaft isn't clamped in the vise, it's just laying there for the picture. Thanks though.
elcamino65, I'm not sure of the year. I've taken the retaining rings out already though.

Just let me finish my beer then I'll give it a shot.

 

If there werent any clips you have to heat where those round spots are

 

I bought a HF shop press from craigslist for $50, works fine for u joints and gathering spider webs

 

Hammer and vise, lay one side of the yoke on the vise and hit the other one to pop them out. Putting them back together requires paying close attention so you don't get a needle(s) down. Almost everyone does the first couple times. I fill the cups with grease to help hold the needles in place.

 

Dang fellows you don"t need no press to change a u-joint,would make it easier. Have changed them on the side of the road. A old socket,a hammer and a little patience will get it done.To the op,just as willowbilly3 said and also be care to only make contact with the u-joint caps,don"t burr up the yoke edges so the new cups will go in easier.After getting the old joints out its a good idea to clean out the yoke holes with either emorycloth or a brake cylinder hone,makes it alot easier going back.Take your time you"get it together together.Saftey glasses are your best friend when hammering metal on metal.

 

Always with the safety glasses. I have a piece of a u-joint cap in one of my hands from 25 years ago, would have surely put out an eye. I also agree to clean the yokes good and if it is outside snap rings, clean the snap ring groove good too. Another thing I always do, after you have it assembled, tap (whack) around both yokes until the joint moves freely. It will probably be kinda stiff and the tapping lets everything realign to reduce binding. You would lay the yoke against something solid to do that.

 

WB3, good point! And easy to forget. The assembled joint should rotate freely...ahem, no needles fallen into the cup end, and no interference from a bottomed out cap/needle/centerpost fit.