Help!! I am running out of money to finish my '35 and one of the major expenses that I am looking at right now is getting my '35 Ford radiator recored. The one that I have is in pretty good shape so I was wondering if I just had it cleaned and two of the filler/return spouts were capped off how well it would work in my application. My engine is 1956 265 .125" bore to a final CI of 283 '57 Heads 097 Cam The HP should be somewhere around 225-250. Do you think a stock '35 Ford radiator could cool that in traffic? I am interested to see how many of you just run the stock radiators. A aluminum unit i not an option. I don't think they look appropriate and I would rather stick with a stock Ford unit. Walker makes a nice one but they are $800.00!!!!! HELP!!!!
I had the radiator cut down (crossmember clearance issue) for my '34 Chevy and re-cored at Walt's Radiator Shop in Lexington NC - these are some real old-timey guys, and do excellent work. I've used them for a bunch of stuff over the years. I wanted to use an old style radiator with the filler through the radiator shell, and like you - walker was just too high. I had talked to a shop here in Raleigh, but they wanted @$700 - Walt's did it for $275. That's re-coring and cutting it down! You may want to take the drive over and have them pressure test it and block the extra spouts. Lexington isn't far from your shop, and well worth the drive.
Aren't the old ford units designed to work un pressurized? I think the biggest thing is running modern pressure will split the tank. This is just what I have heard. No real world experience.
Hitchhiker...it would have been unpressurized, but we did this years ago with a '48 Ford running a SBC. We had it re-cored, np. Just have to add an overflow tank tied into the overflow line. Whether his radiator will hold up - the reason for the pressure test. Easier to find out now than going down the road.
stock 32 V8 rad in my car with a .40 over 327,on the road 7 or 8 years , been in 2 hour Lincoln Tunnel traffic, etc. no problems yet...
I took a stock 34 rad, re moved the top from the top tank with a small torch and rodded all the tubes. Flushed it from the top and pushed any crud out the bottom rad hose opening. I then resoldered the top of the tank back on using very low heat from a propane torch with a large soldering tip on it. As well I un soldered one upper and one lower rad hose opening and soldered them shut with some br*** plare that I bought at a model shop. I run a 13lb cap and no problems or over heating with a done up 324 olds.
I have a recored pressurized stock 36 Radiator in my attic, even has a ****** cooler at the bottom. The filler was relocated to the center of the tank to accomodate my sbc thermostat location, also has the new pressurized cap and bleed off tube. Originally was done in the mid 80's I have an electric fan on the front but it can come off. If you want have your brother come look at it, maybe we can work something out...
Also for what it's worth my dad ran a slew of sbcs with the same radiator before it was re cored, and some were hot little numbers, the only thing to fear is water boiling off if it gets too hot, get a nice fan...
BTW JJ just for pricing info. I had the 4 core redone on my 67 gto Last year. New core installed and had the auto trans cooler removed. The core It uses is one of the more expensive ones.......$400 bucks out the door.
Ya know I think my friend Chris was talking about this place. Awesome!!!! Thank you so much. I think I have a pretty good radiator and it was last used in the 90's so I'm hoping that's a plus. I guess I'll take it up to Walt's and see if he can inspect, clean and giving me an idea of his recommendation. I figure if it can cool a flathead which run a little hotter then SBC's then I should be ok. I was just worried since it was bored .125.
Yeah, let me check on the one I have and I might be calling you!!! I do have a nice fan, it's the very same one that comes with a 265 in 1956!
I drove my 36 sedan across country in 1980 in 103-105 degree heat with the stock non-pressurized radiator. It had the same 283 engine in front of the stock drive train. Try it. I bet you will find it does a fine job. Mine had rubber plugs clamped over the unused ******s. That same weekend I walked by the Walker booth twice and both times it was over run with buyers in a panic trying to get replacement electric fan motors for their burnt up ones. That's when I made up my mind never to use an electric fan. I'm sure they are better now but there were a lot of scared people wondering if they could get home. It was the standard 4 blade GM fan. IIRC 160 thermostat
ran a stock 283 with the original radiator in a 39 Ford.The guy who owned the car before me cut round little wooden blocks to fit in the outlets that weren't used,and hoseclamped them in place.Using the stock fan,it never got hot,in fact,it probably didn't run as warm as it should.Once,after a 30 mile drive,I checked the water temp as soon as I shut it off,it wasn't even 180.
i have run the original 51 merc radiator for about 2 years with a 283 v8 closed off one port top and bottom had it flushed and seald for about 60 bucks works great till i can get it record
LOOK at the stock, original radiator in Vic's 40 Ford coupe ( my old coupe ). The engine is a 283 plus .060 and it never has a overheating issue. The outlets have been reworked but other than that ... it is stock, original 1940 Ford issue. YOU know that Vic drives it everywhere ... with no problems. I drove it to Daytona, Louisville Ky, Columbus Ohio and a bunch of times to Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge via Cherokee NC. It was my semi-regular daily driver for years.
Yeah I basically base everything I do on your old '40. I love that damn car and even though it could use some bias plys it's one of my favorite in the area. And yeah you're right Vic does drive it every where and the climate's the same so that's definitely re***uring.
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